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  #16611  
Old 04-09-2024, 12:23 PM
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Yeah, it could need an entire regulator replacement or it could just need new clips or a new fastener -- can't say without taking it apart. Be glad though, once you have replaced 3 or 4 of these you can officially consider yourself ONE OF US!!
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  #16612  
Old 04-10-2024, 03:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bdc101 View Post
Yeah, it could need an entire regulator replacement or it could just need new clips or a new fastener -- can't say without taking it apart. Be glad though, once you have replaced 3 or 4 of these you can officially consider yourself ONE OF US!!
Well if 3-4 makes someone one of us then I'm about 3 of us....

I am about to have the drivers side regulator after its dismal performance after the rain yesterday.

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  #16613  
Old 04-11-2024, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
I already had the clip to replace imagine my surprise the nut fell off. It's not magnetic was a bitch to recover from the seam at the bottom of the door!


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I had the plastic clip from the door pull cable fall off into that seam, and be really careful in there because there was some sharp as F sheet metal spines sticking up from it, sloppy stamping press job I guess and I got stabbed real good.
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  #16614  
Old 04-12-2024, 08:48 PM
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No parts were required to fix a "check coolant level" warning. The connector was pinned out and repaired. The light warning was out immediately.
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  #16615  
Old 04-12-2024, 10:15 PM
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That's as good as it gets!


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  #16616  
Old 04-14-2024, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
That's as good as it gets!
For sure! I'm jinxing myself. The low coolant warning was the last code to clear. Otherwise, it's been code free since fixing the parasitic drain over a year ago.

I was on a roll. So next, I routed the XM antenna wire to hide it. It follows the dash contour. First, behind the wood trim. The extra length wire was hidden behind the vent assembly. The wire comes out and follows the dash line. Wiring is tucked under the pillar too. Next, get an adapter to have power at the flashlight connector. I think it's key switched. Using the lower footwell adapter is being used now. However, the battery will drain if I forget to turn off the XM tuner.


Next: valve cover gasket and install a fixed OEM left front window regulator.
Long term: prepare for a blower motor replacement, hitch install, and intake replacement.
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  #16617  
Old 04-14-2024, 09:30 AM
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Got my new engine mounts installed today and stabilizer bushings and links.

Just over 18 months on stabilizer links/bushings and about 26 months on the engine mounts.

Man these roads are rough, but I guess it's not too bad...

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  #16618  
Old 04-14-2024, 08:23 PM
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Pulled the left headlight assy for the nth time to see why tf it's still getting water inside.

Did the Andrew Wynn thing of putting some water in it (on purpose!) to locate any leaks. None from around the seal of the lens to the black housing! I mean after the butyl rope and a layer of RTV on top of that how could it be leaking?

OK, where else? Ohhh those two rubber breather/snout things... that originally had some open-cell foam stuffed into the holes that they press onto, which had dissolved long ago. Baked it in a low oven for an hour or so with a little fan blowing in there then stuffed some new open-cell foam (swiped from work) in both and will re-install tomorrow. It's been dry all weekend and no rain is forecast so it might be awhile before I can see if that solves the moisture problem.

While trying to pour a little water into the unit I dropped it into the kitchen sink. That impact made the lamp carriers inside pop off the leveling rods and was rattling around and there didn't seem to be any way to pop it back in place other than hook yer fingers into the lamp sockets and PULL UP. That worked, phew, thought I was gonna have to yank the lens off or just replace the whole thing.

Sure hope that's the last time I have to pull that thing out. My neighbors are used to seeing Frau Blücher* minus an eye...

Oh, also went to get the annual "emissions" inspection. All they do here (GA) is plug into OBDC and check the gas cap. No tailpipe sniffer. That'll be $25. I'd cleared any lingering codes beforehand which seems to have wiped any emissions history so it failed. He told me to drive it 100+ miles and bring it back.

*very mad that "BLUCHER" license plate is taken... maybe when I move to Kentucky this summer.
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  #16619  
Old 04-14-2024, 08:25 PM
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I'm too familiar with that ball.n socket. When I upgraded my non angel to angel I had to transplant the leveling gear!


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  #16620  
Old 04-17-2024, 07:43 PM
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Starting a major service. Leaks, some suspension, and cooling system parts. And all the while you're in there stuff.

Off to a slow start.



For two days now I cannot get the damn fan clutch loose. I bought the two part tool kit back with the E36 and used it a number of times no issue. This clutch, was replaced by the previous owner at a nice local shop. Green coolant was used. The guy really nuked it on. The jaw of the wrench is spreading rounding the nut off.

I went to harbor freight and bought the wrench kit with 32mm for the air hammer. That should absolutely work in 2 seconds. No dice. 20 minutes of air hammer at 90 PSI and it still will not budge. The torch was added. More hammering. More heat. More hammering. Still nothing. All the bolts of the pulley walked loose. It's completely stuck.

Yes I am turning it the right way.

1000 bucks to anyone can get it separated. I'm going to try putting the impeller in the vise and see if I can get it. My cheater pipe doesn't fit over this wrench. I need a good wrench and a 8ft pipe. I cannot believe the air hammer wouldn't get it. It wasn't too bad getting it out like this actually. Never again. Just a tiny little bump to the left is all you need with that, it tightens the entire time.
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