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  #17171  
Old 06-11-2025, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fifty150hs View Post
Yes, two per bank. Two upstream and two downstream. Precat and postcat. Depends on how the sensors are allowing rich or lean condition. Too lean could lead to detonation and burnt valves. Too rich kills your fuel mileage and I think too rich is hard on the cats and can burn them out. Not to mention the constant SES light being on. That would make me nuts.
Thanks for the info, yeah resetting the SES all the time is a minor PITA.

I found a bundle* with the four Bosch sensors for about $250 which doesn't seem bad. Of course there's Chinesium ones on the Hamazon, $45 for all four. Unsure I want to save $200 only to have to get in there multiple times.

* https://eeuroparts.com/product/bosch/4178450KIT
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  #17172  
Old 06-11-2025, 11:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Salty B. View Post
Thanks for the info, yeah resetting the SES all the time is a minor PITA.

I found a bundle* with the four Bosch sensors for about $250 which doesn't seem bad. Of course there's Chinesium ones on the Hamazon, $45 for all four. Unsure I want to save $200 only to have to get in there multiple times.

* https://eeuroparts.com/product/bosch/4178450KIT
Go with the Bosch they're the OEM and getting the downstream sensors is a PITA. $200 is worth it to me to not have to do that job frequently.
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  #17173  
Old 06-12-2025, 06:23 AM
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Remove the vibration damper that's in the way of the forward post cat sensor to replace and def use OEM, I've tried the knock offs they do not last. 250/4 is a good deal. I think about $65 @ is the best I've paid.

I usually cut the wire and use a deep socket to get them out vs. an O₂ socket but i recently saw a trick of putting a hose clamp on the O₂ socket to keep it from spreading and that's a great tip.

Some of my O₂ sockets are offset and that helps in two ways:

1) you can hit with a hammer.
2) you can turn it from the back side.

For the forward post cat sensor i think it was, i put the offset O₂ socket on and put the 6" wobble extension in from the bottom, then i can use my high torque impact to turn clockwise to break it loose.

Recently helping brother we needed to use a long breaker bar and our legs to remove a cross threaded O₂ sensor so good luck you don't have any of those.
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  #17174  
Old 06-12-2025, 03:42 PM
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Jiminy! I might just pay the shop next door to do it.

Thanks for the replies y'all!
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  #17175  
Old 06-15-2025, 07:29 AM
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Took the X5 on a 12 mile ride. First though, a carwash stop to pressure wash the underside. A shop checked the transmission oil and did a transfer case oil change. It was 1/2 a quart low. Back to daily city traffic duties.

Up next, oil change in less than 800 miles. Hitting the 170k mile marker!
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  #17176  
Old 06-15-2025, 03:51 PM
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I removed the rear wheels, sanded and painted the rear calipers and rotor drum bits. Then I took the cables and brake pipes from the plastic covers on the control arm, sprayed with cleaner / degreaser, scrubbed and pressure washed the wheel arches and suspension components.
Then I dried where the pipes ect clip onto the he plastic holders, sprayed with liquid grease to help prevent corrosion in the future. Job done.
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  #17177  
Old 06-15-2025, 04:52 PM
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This weekend I completed another DHC replacement - the fourth in 10 years (two on each of the front doors).
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  #17178  
Old 06-16-2025, 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by wpoll View Post
This weekend I completed another DHC replacement - the fourth in 10 years (two on each of the front doors).
I think I've replaced that many in the same time frame.
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  #17179  
Old 06-17-2025, 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Fifty150hs View Post
I think I've replaced that many in the same time frame.
It doesn't help that I keep buying knock-offs but the OE items are insanely priced and don't seem to be much better (other than the fit).

In terms of fit etc., just for the record, the knock-offs I've tried are: -

Autopa - pretty average fit (meaning not good but manageable if you know how these work) - poor lifespan. Poor feel too - feels "broken" and spongy from new.

Frey - great fit (as good as OE) - seems to last well (not replaced it yet, after two years) - feel is not quite OE but close. Recommended.

No-name - this is the most recent replacement - fit is very poor, but I made it work with some tricks I've learnt along the way. Lifespan is unknown (it's lasted a week so far! ) but feel is pretty good, at least as good as the Frey - it opens the door positively at about 50% of the travel.
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  #17180  
Old 06-17-2025, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpoll View Post
It doesn't help that I keep buying knock-offs but the OE items are insanely priced and don't seem to be much better (other than the fit).

In terms of fit etc., just for the record, the knock-offs I've tried are: -

Autopa - pretty average fit (meaning not good but manageable if you know how these work) - poor lifespan. Poor feel too - feels "broken" and spongy from new.

Frey - great fit (as good as OE) - seems to last well (not replaced it yet, after two years) - feel is not quite OE but close. Recommended.

No-name - this is the most recent replacement - fit is very poor, but I made it work with some tricks I've learnt along the way. Lifespan is unknown (it's lasted a week so far! ) but feel is pretty good, at least as good as the Frey - it opens the door positively at about 50% of the travel.
I've tried a variety of non-BMW units, I think they were Febi, and they all had the same problem, the connector from the DHC mini Boden cable and the door lock wouldn't stay on. I managed on a couple to get them to stay with a little teflon tape in it to tighten the fit, but the last one that didn't even work, so I finally gave up and bought genuine BMW. Fit and operation are about the same as the Febi units, but the cable stays put.
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