All right guys! BMW M62TU Valley Pan, Valve Cover, Spark Plug, etc procedures!!!

[TwinTurboGTR]

Yeah there is a lot of slack on that cable. I forgot to put mine back in, so what you can do is fish it through the space between the intake and valve heads. Thats what I did on kine and no hard no foul. As for the fan puller wrenches, you can rent them at pep boys, autozone, advanced, o'reily. But I THINK you can rent them. I am not sure if they have the appropriate wrench. I borrowed the tool from my indy. He has a few of 'em so he let me borrow one for the day. Call and check to see if they have it first before wasting the gas. How is the project coming? is the DIY helping at all? Let me know what you think about it. I think you are my first victim.

[dwhite832003]

It's going good for the most part... I wasn't even planning on doing the valve cover gaskets but when I was changing the the spark plugs I noticed there was oil in the holes closest to the firewall on both pass and driver side...I used an needle nose turkey baster to get most of it out but there's still a small amount that I was not able to get with it??? I was originally only doing intake gaskets, ccv, and thermostat but the further I get the more things I see that need replacing... Oh and I didn't break the throttle plate breather nipple, it was already broken previously and someone tried to jb weld it..

[enigmae12]

i dont even have a V8, read post, and all i have to say is wow. thanks for the write should keep many of us parttime grease monkeys busy

[TwinTurboGTR]

Originally Posted by dwhite832003

It's going good for the most part... I wasn't even planning on doing the valve cover gaskets but when I was changing the the spark plugs I noticed there was oil in the holes closest to the firewall on both pass and driver side...I used an needle nose turkey baster to get most of it out but there's still a small amount that I was not able to get with it??? I was originally only doing intake gaskets, ccv, and thermostat but the further I get the more things I see that need replacing... Oh and I didn't break the throttle plate breather nipple, it was already broken previously and someone tried to jb weld it..

Well sounds promising! And yeah, there is always something else that you find.

[Kdog03]

Couple things:

We accomplished this valley pan job but the torque specs in your DIY caused 3 nuts to strip the intake manifold bolts than seat in the Engine. Your list shows 21ft lbs for these nuts, 10 of em, that hold down the intake cover to the top of the engine. We immediatly stripped 3 of em doing this on our 2002 4.4 X5. After more researching on these torque specs and finally calling BMW service here in Colorado we had a tech on the phone who said NO WAY on those specs. He said 14-17NM which is around 10lbs or so. Be carefull-because if you strip em you then need to get the stripped bolts out of the engine and replace them with new ones or use a second nut to push down the stripped nut to the correct torque specs for the intake cover. All other specs looked good especially the valley pan.

We also replaced the 2 hoses that attached to the oil drain pipe leading to the bottom of the oil pan, the other end is the OSV. They were mush and the drain pipe was full of crispy gunk, especially the hollow bolt at the end of the oil drain pipe, so we got those off and cleaned these out as well. We also replaced the fuel breather purge solenoid that attaches to the tube that leads to the left front of the intake, the little inlet. The intake at this inlet was covered in oil and dirt, leaking. Replacing this also stopped the hard start after a fuel-up at a gas station and was throwing a code for Evap and large fuel air leak.

Fuel rail and electronics: We simply lifted the fuel rail with the electronic boxes and injectors all out at once-didnt even need to pull those little wire clips off-there is no need as it all pops out the with the fuel rail and we just hung it to the underside of the hood out to the passenger side. Also didnt need to disconnect battery at all-just pull the fuel pump fuse and your good, just dont go crazy and fire up the vehicle.

BTW our valley pan was dry even though we had the mystery coolant leaking for the last 10-15K miles. After doing this job we believe the water manifold in back was the culprit. When we began to loosen the bolts for the water manifold they literally were untightening by hand, very loose. Even though we did see coolant around the edges of the valley pan, none was inside. The water manifold can easily leak all over the valley pand and around everything to the bottom. After replacing the gaskets on the water manifold, valley pan, O-rings to the pipes on both ends, the OSV, the PCV plate, and the 3 gaskets of the intake we cleaned the entire intake from one end to the other. Oh yea, there was also a good chunk of crispy goo at the tube going into the valve cover from the OSV. It looked like it was just about clogged and would likely cause the infamous "burpe" to blow a valve gasket in the near future.

In the end this job took me, and a friend who mainly surpervised, 4 days with running to the the part store a half a dozen times and to the dealership a few times, but more or less taking my time with it making sure everything was cleaned and replaced during the process. I have pics of everything also if anyone needs em posted. Oh yea because we cleaned the oil drain pipe we drained the oil in the process, we changed the oilas well. So far no leaks.

[TwinTurboGTR]

KDog, great everything went great for you. Unfortunate for the top head bolts through. Did you end up removing the studs and replacing them? Yeah I knew the book was wrong on that spec. When I took the intake mani off, I undid one by hand just to get a feel. When putting it back on, I set the wrench to 21, but half way through, it didn't feel right. Loosened that bolt by hand and it was too tight. So just ended up doing all by hand. But that is good you got the spec.

Yeah, my two hoses to the OSV were also junked and same situation as you.

As for electrical, I'll disagree not disconnecting the battery. It is great it worked for you, but I stressed safety in the DIY. By not disconnecting the battery, you run the risk of shock or arc welding. It is just safer to disconnect it first this way there are no electrical mishaps. And the fuel rail coming up together with the boxes is GREAT! I was going to go that route, but a tech worked on the car in the past and messed up the wire routing, so it just kept getting hung up, so took it off in separate pieces. Either way will work.

As for the water manifold, I agree, 3 of the 6 I could take out by hand. Surprised and not surprised as the same time that didn't fail. Not surprised because the manifold was seized on the block and was a biotch to take out. Literally had to brace myself, hold with two hands and yank this muthaluva out.

Anyways, great it worked out.

[dwhite832003]

Well job complete... pheewwww I didn't think she'd ever start again lol... I still have the P0171 though any suggestions??? I originally had both 174 & 171... the only other thing I could think of would be a new Mass Air sensor... I replace both O2 sensors pre cat ... but not post...since it's only lean on one side I'm thinking of swaping the pre cat O2's...see if it switches banks before I put the MAF on order...

[Kdog03]

Just read something today about a lean code. First item to replace is the fuel filter on a lean code-FYI.

[peabo]

Hi TwinTurboGTR,

Your writeup has to be one of the best and most entertaining I have ever read. I still laugh at the comment:
Step 1: Remove the splash shield (If you can’t remove a splash shield, you shouldn’t be doing this job).

Even though I found this comment funny, I agree that this is not a job to be taken on lightly. It is a bit scary once the intake comes off to see the valves and worrying about something falling in the cylinder before you can properly cover the holes with tape!

Your writeup, along with Magnum1's, allowed me to do all of this work (11 cooling hoses, valley pan, water pump, thermostat, radiator, etc, etc) myself. I second the recommendation that you should do everything possible while you are this deep in the engine, because you don't want to do this job a second time!

I am an average shade tree mechanic, but this took me around 20 hours, so I am below average a bit, but alot of the time was spent cleaning the engine parts while I had everything off. I am pretty sure the dealer wouldn't take the time to do the cleaning that I did.

Like others have mentioned, I didn't remove the injector clips, just pulled up on the electrical boxes with the clips on. Only one fell off. When reinstalling the electrical boxes, I simply gave them a firm shove and they clipped right back on!

After replacing everything cooling related, the source of my slow leak was the rear coolant manifold (passenger side gasket). My bolts were also just finger tight, so I used blue Loctite when reassembling.

Another tip from Heckler and you made my wife think I was brilliant. After reassembling everything and asking my wife to start her X5 for the first time, the DSC, ABS and brake lights came on. She got very nervous. I just smiled and said turn the wheel full left, then full right. She looked at me like I was joking, but just has you said all the lights went out!!!

Again thank you for the effort to put this DIY together.

Peabo

[dwhite832003]

@KDOG thanks ... I just pressure tested at the fuel rail and I'm getting 54psi... so I don't think its clogged or anything... but I've got 116K on the dial so I should probably change it out anyways...I'm gonna put the mass air on order tonight... it's all I got left Amazon.com: Bosch Air Mass Sensor (MAF / Mass Air Flow Sensor) # 0280217814 - BMW # 13621433567 - Fits: 540I, 540IT, 740I, 740IL, X5, X5, IS: Automotive
any reason why I shouln't buy from here???