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  #411  
Old 10-21-2014, 09:03 PM
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Mike those rings look like the sizes for a pre facelift tho.
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  #412  
Old 10-22-2014, 01:55 PM
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Got Bored,...Pulled the Trigger Here She IS!!!!!.....>>>>>>>

EvoX-R Projectors - $150
Morimoto 3Five SS Ballasts - $110
Morimoto Can-Bus Modules - $30
Morimoto 140mm xBA Led Angel Eyes - $85
Morimoto 120mm xBA Led Angel Eyes - $75
Oci-Butyl Headlamp Sealant (1 roll) - $15

Imaygowith this like x5snd has

But it will be umnitza
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  #413  
Old 10-22-2014, 02:37 PM
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Lookin forward to seeing what you come up with man
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  #414  
Old 10-22-2014, 03:41 PM
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Can't wait to see how you go with the retrofit, please do a new thread because opening the lights on the facelift seems to be such a dark art. Are you doing quad projectors using the evox-r's in the second high beam location?
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  #415  
Old 10-22-2014, 04:28 PM
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I have opened a facelift headlight. If you don't have a method I can tell you how I did it.
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  #416  
Old 10-22-2014, 05:01 PM
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I'd be curious to know as well. I did the EvoX-R projectors in my e39 M5 and would love to do the same conversion on my 05 4.8is.
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  #417  
Old 10-23-2014, 12:14 PM
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Got Bored,...Pulled the Trigger Here She IS!!!!!.....>>>>>>>

I'll have my friend try to do it take pictures of before and after someplace we could see on how he did it looks like it's going to be a soldering tool to open it up in the meantime here's my control arm refreshed with polyurethane bushings


http://youtu.be/4OG5M1r0Mo0
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  #418  
Old 10-23-2014, 12:18 PM
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How do you like the poly bushings Mike? did you do new small ball joints too?
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  #419  
Old 10-23-2014, 01:05 PM
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It takes a long time so first thing needed is patience.

I used a hairdryer to heat a small length of the black housing at the seal. While hot I bent the lip of the housing enough to have better access to the seal. Using an Xacto knife, I scraped my way though the seal and removed as much as I could down seal, which is VERY little. It is tedious work---heating scraping heating scraping. Once the lens is removed the sealant on the lens and the housing has to be removed but a small screwdriver works quite well to do that.

Don't worry about bending the housing as little as it is necessary to get better access. A little heat and it will bend it back into place. I did several test fits of the lens to the housing to get it right. Do the test fits before you start the upgrades. When I resealed the lens to the housing I used a flowable silicone windshield sealant so it would fill any imperfections and will release when heat is applied.

A side note---it is extremely easy to damage the chrome around the headlight bulbs. I suggest using only air to clean any junk on them.

There are probably other, hopefully easier and less time consuming, ways to remove the lens. I suggest you do lots of searching to find one. I tried a Dremel but I felt sure I would do damage that couldn't be repaired. That, of course, is based on my lack of talent using the tool.

Depending on how much value you place on your time, you may be ahead purchasing used lights that do come apart when baked or bite the bullet and go with aftermarket lights.

The big question--how long did it take? It took me about 5 hours to do one light. I was in no hurry, took breaks and there were distractions.
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  #420  
Old 10-23-2014, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby View Post
How do you like the poly bushings Mike? did you do new small ball joints too?
omg rb its feels good on braking n turns much stiffer and yes small joints also...due to only driver side bad front lower control arms and the rest is still good....i figured change both thrust n lower arms along with ball joints...well worth saving $1500 from stealer
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