All in - pulling the 4.6 engine and trans to fix oil leaks once and for all

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by racingbmwm3

Anyone ever seen a torque spec for the CV boots? maybe that's why the inner boots always leaked on the E46 Xi's, they weren't torqued properly? I guess it's nice to know you have that option with this wrench.

What torque spec do you need?

For the clamps on the CV boots you only need the proper tool which was just linked above, that is the way to crimp the new clamps properly.

The only torque spec on the axles I'm aware of is the 36mm 12 pt nut on the end of the joint when reattaching through the hub, and that spec is 310 ft lbs.

[racingbmwm3]

I was referring to the advertisement for the pliers that said they are torque wrench compatible. Sorry, getting distracted with the details. I've always just used angled cutters to pinch these clamps. As long as it isn't overtightened, the stupid boot is going to tear before the clamp ever wears through or starts leaking.

[StephenVA]

I our case, there is not one that I am aware of. The boots and other band clamps are pinched together at the square, then the top of the square is pushed down by one step process leveraging the RIGHT tool. The band when properly "pinched", sets all the necessary torque for the band to be in a "locked" state.





This is why they are a one time use item. Use once, Cut them and throw away each time.

Finding just the bands is a problem with the CV boots. I used BMW sourced boots and just replaced grease, boots and bands when I did my CV joint clean and boot replacement. That project took more set up and clean up time, than the repairs themselves.

[bcredliner]

The few times I used the crimp type instead of the screw type I have used pliers similar to the following rather than a special tool. Shop Kobalt 7-in End Cutting Pliers at Lowes.com

[StephenVA]

Originally Posted by bcredliner

The few times I used the crimp type instead of the screw type I have used pliers similar to the following rather than a special tool. Shop Kobalt 7-in End Cutting Pliers at Lowes.com

Good tool.

It is missing the anvil part for the pinch block head that stops the part from expanding upwards away from the band. It will however get the job done in a pinch. (Pardon the pun)

[racingbmwm3]

+1 on the end cutters. Again, the boot is going to tear at the bellows before it will start leaking at the clamp. Plus the end cutters come in handy for many other purposes.

[stunt]

Appreciate to suggestions on the boot bands and crimp tool. Getting the bands by themselves without the whole boot kit seems challenging as suggested. I might just get new boots while I'm at it. I'll give them a good inspection once I get to the phase of the project.

I first worked on the right front drive shaft. Turns out the axle nut on this side was a 6 point vs. the 12 point on the left side, so the 36mm socket did not fit it. I had to switch to a 3/4" drive 1 5/8" socket to get it off. I'll be replacing them both anyway, so no bid deal. Does make you wonder who's been working on this truck in the past...



My big challenge, and where I'm stuck with the right side axle, is how to get it all the way off the output flange. I got it this far with relative ease, but now there's a lot of resistance preventing me from getting it the rest of the way off. I've been using progressively larger leverage bars, but I'm starting to really put marks in the flange and inner cv joint housing.

Any suggestions?



So I decided to move on to the rear drive shaft. Fortunately, it popped off with no trouble. Hung it off to the side for now.



Next up was the front drive shaft. Getting the flex-disc and centering flange free was easy.



But even with the axle pulled as far back as it will go, the centering flange pilot shaft doesn't quite clear the input flange. Figured I'll just drop it when removing the transfer case. Oh, and I think I better replace the flex-disc. Look pretty cracked, especially in the flash photo below.



Next up was removing the front sway bar. I thought this would be easy, but I'm hung up in several places as shown by the red arrows.





Any suggestions on how to get the sway bar out appreciated. Bentley states to pull out out towards the left, but maybe I'll try the right instead?

[Ricky Bobby]

I bought gkn loebro (oem manuf) boot kits for the axles which included bands grease boots and axle nuts (12 pt 36mm) from pelican parts for 13 bucks per side, same kit as genuine BMW but just in a GKN box.

[romeokc10]

Originally Posted by StephenVA

I our case, there is not one that I am aware of. The boots and other band clamps are pinched together at the square, then the top of the square is pushed down by one step process leveraging the RIGHT tool. The band when properly "pinched", sets all the necessary torque for the band to be in a "locked" state.





This is why they are a one time use item. Use once, Cut them and throw away each time.

Finding just the bands is a problem with the CV boots. I used BMW sourced boots and just replaced grease, boots and bands when I did my CV joint clean and boot replacement. That project took more set up and clean up time, than the repairs themselves.

Actually it's not hard, I found a store online back in 2011 that sells just the bands in various diameters. I'll post the link, it's saved on my other laptop, they're in Boston I think.

[stunt]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

I bought gkn loebro (oem manuf) boot kits for the axles which included bands grease boots and axle nuts (12 pt 36mm) from pelican parts for 13 bucks per side, same kit as genuine BMW but just in a GKN box.

Wow, what a deal. That's what I'll do I think.