All in - pulling the 4.6 engine and trans to fix oil leaks once and for all

[Gurjit]

theres a video on youtube, they pull the engine straight out the front with the tranny

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dfMKlTa7tjo

[stunt]

Interesting video pulling both engine and trans together!

I'm following the Bentley manual, and it states the tranny has to be removed before the engine can be pulled, which is why I got the engine support bar.

I might try pulling them together instead. I just about got the front clip off anyway.

I was able to get the right side motor mount top bolt off no problem, but the left (drive's side) is a pain to get to. I can get my hand on it from below, but can't get a wrench in there. Any tips?

Also, on the hood, I'm wondering if I can undo the clips and lay it against the windshield (with a towel in between of course). This way I don't have to worry about re-aligning later. I know there is also a service position, but I don't seem to be able to locate the special bracket that is needed.

[Brandon002]

No joke on the nice garage and lift comment.

I thought about doing this as well to replace all the gaskets on my engine. It would make life so much easier to replace them all with the engine out of the truck.

Unfortunately, I don't have a garage or lift like your's... so I have to contort my hands and arms in the engine bay when it warms up.

[stunt]

So I pretty much decided to remove the engine and transmission as a single unit. So I got the upper radiator support removed.



Can you guess what website is pulled up on the computer screen in the background?



Only problem is that I'm not having much luck getting the power steering coolant lines to disconnect. I wonder if anyone local have the proper tool to release these clips? I used 2 pair of pliers to pull the release ring in, but I don't have any leverage to then pull the hose from the fitting.



The fuel line uses the same fitting, but is smaller and I lucked out and was able to release it using the same method.

EDIT. Looks like this is what I need. (Image from bav auto web site)



I also ordered this last night:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330606867879...S:3160&vxp=mtr

[racingbmwm3]

those fittings can be PITA sometimes. you should be able to remove them by hand without tools though. It helps to push the hose further onto the fitting, then squeeze the clip, then pull the hose off. If you try pulling at the same time as squeezing it doesn't want to work. Pushing it on more is the key. Try not to use a bunch of force when pushing pulling the hose as that can just bang up the locking clip thing and make it worse. The special tool helps, you still need to push then pull though. Maybe give it a little twist as well?

[stunt]

Well that upper fitting didn't want to go. The plastic clip just came apart, maybe from me trying to force it off yesterday. I did push the hose in first, then push in the clip and then try to remove it. I think I must have messed up the little metal tabs inside.

The bottom one came off pretty easy. So I ended up cutting the upper one once the plastic clip had disintegrated. So that's another $40 to add to my parts list. At least the upper hose is the short one (vs. the $120 long lower one!) Will probably need to cut off the metal housing with a dremel tool in the hopes of being able to save the power steering cooler.



Anyway, after that ordeal, the entire front of the engine is now exposed. Here are some shots at this oily mess of an engine.







Looks like the water cooled alternator was replaced at some point. I suppose that is good news, maybe? I had to wipe off a layer of oil and dirt before even realizing there was a label on it at all.



Removed the heat shields around the transmission



Next it was time to remove the front axles



I was surprised to find this spacer. Don't think I'll be putting it back on unless those are factory on the 4.6?



Pads and rotors are in real good shape. There was no groove at all on the rotors, so the pads slipped right off.



Removing tie outer tie-rod. Tension strut came off using the same tool.



For the control arm, I had to step up to a larger puller.



Inner CV joint Looks to have been packed well when serviced last.



I take it these clips are not reusable? Is there a special tool to be used to "crimp" them on when replacing them?



Driver side front axle removed



Steering knuckle re-attached loosely. I'll need to put the front wheels back on to roll the truck back when it comes time to pull the engine.



It doesn't look like the inner CV housing is going to clear the frame (the other side looks even worse). I wonder what it will take to remove those?



That's all I got done today as I wasn't able to start until around 4pm due to other obligations, which I also have tomorrow unfortunately, but I hope to at least be able to pull out the other front axle tomorrow.

Oh, on the valve covers, I had them powder coated when I did the gaskets last year.

[Tautog13]

Originally Posted by stunt

I take it these clips are not reusable? Is there a special tool to be used to "crimp" them on when replacing them?

Stunt,
No...those clips (bands) are not re-useable.....

In a word......yes........a special tool is required to crimp the new bands/clamps.

Autozone has a (low quality) tool in the less than $15.00 range....it may/may not work for you........this tool failed me.........so I opted for the Snap On (Blue Point) ± $43.00 version......found here....

Edit: Re: Boots
Given the extent of your project......new axle boots are/should be a given (new boots/grease/bands)



Best,
Charlie

[stunt]

Originally Posted by Tautog13

Stunt,
No...those clips (bands) are not re-useable.....

In a word......yes........a special tool is required to crimp the new bands/clamps.

Autozone has a (low quality) tool in the less than $15.00 range....it may/may not work for you........this tool failed me.........so I opted for the Snap On (Blue Point) ± $43.00 version......found here....

Best,
Charlie

Thanks Charlie. I'll pick up the Blue Point tool and replacement bands, and thoroughly inspect the boots once I get them cleaned out. The PO did state they had just been replaced but maybe I'll just replace them all as you suggest for piece of mind.

[Ricky Bobby]

I got a lot of observations but the first to my attention is that your inner cv joint has the wrong grease in it. It should be yellow runny looking tripod joint grease not the black moly grease you show. That's not an original inner joint or has had a new boot before

[RFaber]

Looks like a lot of fun! keep us posted on what you find!
oh, if i recall , doesnt the CV axle slip out of the front diff completely? it looks as though you have a part left behind! *the part that wont clear the frame*!!
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