All in - pulling the 4.6 engine and trans to fix oil leaks once and for all

[stunt]

Originally Posted by MrFixIt

I highly recommend you use a crankshaft holding tool instead of just the timing wheel locking pin when removing/installing the "Jesus" bolt. It's high torque 310 +fp.

Just to be clear, I'm referring to the flywheel lock pin that is inserted in a hole in the transmission bellhousing. It is a 1/2" pin or something like that, so I would think it will provide plenty of holding power.

Here's a pic from another DIY thread on bimmerboard

[x5Alpine]

RomeoCK10.....no one wants to put American garbage in place of a BMW motor. I'm seriously so sick of you trolling these threads. Go over to the Toyota forums where you belong.

[e30cabrio]

I had a hell of a time getting the crank pulley off my Z. It required heat, a gigantic breaker bar and a heck ofalot of elbow grease.


Glad you got the broken bolt out!

[romeokc10]

Excellent thread Stunt, since you've got the engine and tranny removed, why not swap in a Corvette LS engine, it'll be way more reliable and less maintenance intensive than anything BMW could come up with. Nothing like a good ole push rod V8, and it'll have more displacement and the aftermaket power add-ons are limitless, nothing much out there for a 4.6 engine.

[four.8is]

Originally Posted by romeokc10

Excellent thread Stunt, since you've got the engine and tranny removed, why not swap in a Corvette LS engine, it'll be way more reliable and less maintenance intensive than anything BMW could come up with. Nothing like a good ole push rod V8, and it'll have more displacement and the aftermaket power add-ons are limitless, nothing much out there for a 4.6 engine.

I'm just surprised you didn't get tired of bashing BMW.Every chance you get you make it look like BMW is the mother of unreliability..seriously , it's eye tiring ...

[J.Belknap]

Originally Posted by romeokc10

Excellent thread Stunt, since you've got the engine and tranny removed, why not swap in a Corvette LS engine, it'll be way more reliable and less maintenance intensive than anything BMW could come up with. Nothing like a good ole push rod V8, and it'll have more displacement and the aftermaket power add-ons are limitless, nothing much out there for a 4.6 engine.

If you took the time and energy you've spent pissing and moaning on the forums about your 200,000 mile old timing chain guides breaking and fixed your damn truck, you'd have fixed your damn truck. Go fix your damn truck.

edit: Sorry to interrupt stunt

[bcredliner]

Originally Posted by romeokc10

Excellent thread Stunt, since you've got the engine and tranny removed, why not swap in a Corvette LS engine, it'll be way more reliable and less maintenance intensive than anything BMW could come up with. Nothing like a good ole push rod V8, and it'll have more displacement and the aftermaket power add-ons are limitless, nothing much out there for a 4.6 engine.

There is a time and place for everything----congratulations are due! You have made a historic discovery finding there actually is an exception to the rule.

[JCL]

stunt:

Excellent thread and documentation. Really enjoying it.

With your use of Evans waterless coolant, are you running higher engine temperatures?

Side note, but every time I see the shots of the lift chains wrapped over the pallet forks without a tie chain back to the headache rack I think of it all slipping off the end of the pallet forks. Be safe.

[stunt]

Originally Posted by JCL

stunt:

Excellent thread and documentation. Really enjoying it.

Thanks!

With your use of Evans waterless coolant, are you running higher engine temperatures?

No temps are the same as before. I switched since my original radiator cracked, I figured switching to a coolant the expanded less would be a good thing. Heard good things about Evans, so I figured I'd give it a shot. After what I'm doing now, I'm pretty sure there will be no water contaminant left.

Side note, but every time I see the shots of the lift chains wrapped over the pallet forks without a tie chain back to the headache rack I think of it all slipping off the end of the pallet forks. Be safe.

I hear you. Fortunately my loader is self leveling and I made sure to not have much of a down angle. But you're right, I should have used a tie chain to be 100% safe.

[J.Belknap]

Originally Posted by stunt

Crank snout? Are you referring to the crankshaft hub held on with the "Jesus" bolt that the balancer attaches to?

Yes.

Originally Posted by stunt

If so, what would be the reasoning behind replacing that piece?

If the threads are chewed up. It happens sometimes.

Originally Posted by kesslerbmw

There are motors well over 200k miles with original guides, and there's 100k mile motors that need guides... I'd like to figure out what makes them last longer, or way longer. What's the issue with that?

Different owners driving distances per heat cycle. Different ages. Different environments. I think it's great that you haven't experienced the failure on other motors. In my experience, almost all of the M62 cars that get guides repaired, the tensioner is just fine. Can a bad tensioner wreck stuff? Absolutely. But it's not a prerequisite to guide failure.