All in - pulling the 4.6 engine and trans to fix oil leaks once and for all

[RRPhil]

Sorry, I lied. I always replace the three steel pipes for the B clutch feed, E brake feed and 1st gear sprag lubrication too.
(The ends deform to form a seal as they’re hammered into place)



Phil

[jsoto]

Thx Phil. New wire harness in. Hopefully should be all good. Turns out the guy who owns the tranny shop has a older E39 and a E70 to boot

[stunt]

The crank shaft holding tool finally showed up today. So after getting it bolted on to the crank snout with some M8 bolts (they have to be longer than the ones that hold on the pulley) and getting some 6x6 pieces under the handle, I was ready to give the "Jesus bolt" another try.



Here's my extender pipe



Well, it didn't go well. Broke my 3/4" to 1/2" reducer from Napa. It was rated at 395 ft/lbs. I guess that wasn't enough to break it loose.



I went with the reducer since I don't have any metric 3/4" drive socket. Determined to get this bolt off, I put on a 1 1/16" 12 point 3/4" drive socket.



And success at last! It actually started to loosen before my feet were completely off the ground at the end of that pipe.



With that out of the way, I figured now would be a good time to separate the engine and transmission. After undoing the 12 bolts holding the belllhousing to the engine and having the engine raised the the transmission blocked to "balance" things, the two floated apart with no effort at all.



So the converted was still attached to the flexplate. I figured this was less stress on the transmission input shaft than unbolting it first. If I was pulling the transmission with the engine still in the car, I would have unbolted it first because it would have been very hard to maintain the right angle during the separation process I would think.



Here are the ID numbers on the converter.



I figured I'll drop the lower oil pan next to expose the bolts here that hold the bottom of the lower timing cover in place.



So here are the 6 bolts on the passenger side of the bellhousing. Note that the 2 starter bolts are slightly longer than the rest and also that the top bolt takes an E10 socket where the rest take an E12.



Driver side is very similar, only 2 of the bolts have nuts on the engine side.



I also got the new front axle flex plate. Quite a difference compared to the old one.





Finally, here's a pic of another V8 I need to get off the engine stand so that I can put the 4.6 on it.



Any guesses what it is?

[e30cabrio]

Nice, congrats!!


Chrysler?

[stunt]

That's a 69 GM 350 small block 4-bolt main out of a 69 GMC 1500 truck. I plan to rebuilt it and drop it in my 1970 GMC dump truck that currently has a tired 305 in it.

Took maybe all of 2 hours to pull that engine (it was mated to a 4 speed manual) so quite a contrast to the X5!

[racingbmwm3]

I was going to cheat and decipher the casting number on the block. But you already gave up the answer.

[stunt]

Lol, yeah sorry about that. Casting # is 3932386.

That block was used in 3 different applications as follows:

302 cu. in. 4 bolt mains 290 hp 1969 Camaro Z28
327 cu. in. 2 bolt mains 210 hp 1969 Camaro
350 cu. in. 4 bolt mains 300-350 hp 1969 No specific application listed This is the one I got

It was an all original numbers matching truck one owner:



Check out the mice nests when I pulled it, lol



Here she is after getting her home.



Paid $250 for it and after pulling the engine, took the rest to the scrap yard where they paid me $400 for it.

Oh and here's the 1970 GMC dump truck I'm going to put it in.



Paid $1200 for it. Everything works 100%, including the hydraulic dump bed.

Old american iron sure is cheap compared to the stuff we work on around here!

[racingbmwm3]

Awesome, that truck has a smaller GVWR than the X5!
Love those deals like that, buy low, sell high!

[stunt]

I got the converter off



And next the flexplate. Not sure what that oil leak is at 2 o'clock?



Close up of that area. Hmm, will need to clean it up I guess to figure out what's going on. Hopefully it's just that torx bolt that is a little loose. The rear seal isn't leaking at all, so I'm hoping to leave that alone.



After getting the flex plate off, I bolted the engine to my stand and rotated it 180 degrees so that I can work on the oil pan



Another angle



Before going any further, I'm going to spend some time cleaning this messy oily shop floor and get everything much better organized. It is a complete mess right now! And I'll wrap the engine in a trash bag until everything has been cleaned up.

[jsoto]

Cmon. I know I just did not read that you are not going to change the RMS. I would...