All in - pulling the 4.6 engine and trans to fix oil leaks once and for all

[SlickGT1]

Phil's advise is like gold as far as transmissions go. This man really knows his stuff. To bad you are not in US

[stunt]

Thanks for your advice Phil! I read your thread on the 5HP24 teardown with great interest and that is what gave me the courage to take on this project myself.

I'll do some research on the Sachs L51 to make sure I find someone that has experience with this particular model.

As I have been with the rest of this project, I'll be taking plenty of high resolution pictures as I go.

[racingbmwm3]

Stunt, your notation on the solitary crack in the engine mount. They are hydraulic, and since there is a crack it's very possible the fluid has leaked out, but during your immaculate cleaning abilities you've erased the evidence that the engine mounts are/have failed. Also, being 7.5 years old now, its better to replace them while its easy to do anyway.

[stunt]

Hi racing,

The piece with the visible crack is the tension strut bushing. It still feels very firm moving up and down relative to the sub-frame. These appear to be pretty easy to change later if needed, so I'll probably leave them alone for now.

That said, I agree with you that I should just go ahead and replace the engine mounts now they they are so easy to get to, so that's what I'll do.

[jsoto]

Stunt. East coast. Call here

Erikson : (203) 386-8931

[stunt]

Originally Posted by jsoto

Stunt. East coast. Call here

Erikson : (203) 386-8931

Thanks! The correct number for Eriksson Industries is 800-388-4418. The guy answering the phone at the first number said they get calls all the time for Eriksson, lol, but he pointed me in the right direction.

Anyway, I spoke to Scott and they have done plenty of the L51 converters. Price was a very good $250. They didn't have any cores at the moment, so I'm sending him mine. Turn around is 2-3 days.

Here's their web site:

ZF Parts Eriksson Industries

[Ricky Bobby]

If you have a visible crack in the tension strut bushing and play in the arm when pulling on it, I'd replace it while the car is apart and in the air, a pair of poly bushings shouldn't be much if you wanted to go that route, and I'd do the ball joints on the other side of the arm at the same time as well.

[stunt]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

If you have a visible crack in the tension strut bushing and play in the arm when pulling on it, I'd replace it while the car is apart and in the air, a pair of poly bushings shouldn't be much if you wanted to go that route, and I'd do the ball joints on the other side of the arm at the same time as well.

Ok, I'll do those too then while I'm at it. Hell, might as well do the ball joints as well now that I got the converter situation resolved, and at a very reasonable cost.

Picking up a 20 ton Excalibur shop press I found on craiglist this evening after work. That will come in handy for those bushings and the transmission clutches (and a lot of other stuff that I have been doing with a vise or hammer up until now on previous projects/repairs )

[jsoto]

Phil -

Sorry for the threadjack. In regards to your other message re: full rebuild kits versus specific parts. What is normal standard operating practice from a trans builder point of view. Teardown and only replace failed parts, and maybe a upgraded part like the upgrade A Clutch Drum.

I just had my wiring harness replaced (temp sensor fault) on my trans which was rebuilt about 6 month ago.

[RRPhil]

Originally Posted by jsoto

Phil -

Sorry for the threadjack. In regards to your other message re: full rebuild kits versus specific parts. What is normal standard operating practice from a trans builder point of view. Teardown and only replace failed parts, and maybe a upgraded part like the upgrade A Clutch Drum.

The gasket and seal kit (ZF 1058 298 022) is clearly essential but, other than that and a re-manufactured torque converter & sump filter, I don’t generally replace anything else unless it’s obviously required.





The only exception to this is the axial needle roller bearing (ZF 1058 202 016) between the B clutch hub and C clutch drum - the Achilles Heel of the 5HP24 - which I invariably replace regardless of condition/mileage.



The control system is so protective of the clutch packs (i.e. drops into TRANS FAILSAFE PROG at the merest sniff of unscripted clutch slip) that it’s extremely unlikely that the clutch plates will have worn at all, unless someone has driven the vehicle around in failsafe mode. For example I generally measure the friction plate thickness of brand new plates at 1.60mm and after 120,000 miles the plates generally measure 1.60mm.

The A clutch drum issue is only relevant to transmissions built before November 2000 (serial number 355863) when the stiffened drum with the radial swages and the main pressure valve land width increase (from 9mm to 10mm) were introduced.





Phil