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#1
03-03-2014, 01:43 AM
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PB blaster was the key when I did my ball joints. Soak them and let them sit then attack with a pickle fork and some taps from a small sledge. The first side took a bit of convincing but the one that sat longer with the PB came out pretty fast.
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2013 X5 xDrive3.5i Premium 2002 530I Sport Package 2001 X5 4.4i 2001 M3 
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#2
03-03-2014, 03:28 AM
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Let me save you a headache and any future ones. One particular one i recently did i used torch, sledge, air hammer, pickle fork and didnt budge. This pulled it out immediantly.
Get this - 3/4" Forged Ball Joint Separator You dont need anything else ever again for tierods/balljoints/ etc in suspension, remove the nut put this bad boy on, just grease the bolt threads and put an impact gun to it. Comes off/out in 5 sec.
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2006 X5 4.8is Fully Loaded  
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#3
03-03-2014, 04:48 AM
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Quote:
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--2004 E53 X5 4.8is - ECE version; right hand drive; Located in Hong Kong; ext. black sapphire metallic; int. leather black; adaptive dynamic bi-xenon headlights; 16:9 onboard monitor w/o navigation; 20" genuine BMW Y-spoke 214 wheels with Bridgestone Dueler H/P Sport tires; Int. rear view mirror w/ compass.
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#4
03-03-2014, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Do you have a picture or the part number for the special BMW tool?
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2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD
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#5
03-03-2014, 07:10 PM
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I recently redid the entire front suspension and wheel bearings in my X5, the puller that is listed above is the exact same one which i used, (so exact in fact, i believe the one they took a photo of is mine!!) it worked like a charm! i have pretty much any puller/pusher/picklefork at my disposal and this one is always my go to tool for ball joints.
time is also a good tool to have. If you put the puller on, cinch it up a bit, then go off to do something else, you may find that the ball joint pops out while youre away! Good luck with your project! 
__________________
2003 X5 3.0i (02/2003) sport package, Sapphire black metallic / Black Dakota Sport seats. compass mirror retrofit, trailer hitch retrofit, Prodigy P2 trailer brake controller installed, PDC retrofit, Lumbar support retrofit. heated rear seats retrofitted. Running boards retrofitted and subwoofer install in progress. 4.8is Brakes installed front and back. Bluetooth TCU installed, Rear Fog lights installed. Retrofitted reclining rear seat backs. 
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#6
03-03-2014, 12:46 PM
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How would you use the separator tool to remove the balljoint from the knuckle? This tool will remove the arm from the ball joint, but you still have the stuck ball joint in the knuckle afterwards.
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********************* Olympic Peninsula, WA, USA ----------------------------------------- 2005 Mini Cooper 100k, British Racing Green/Silver-Black 04/2002 4.6is 140k, Silver/Black-Alcantara *FOR SALE* 1989 325iX 270k, Diamond Black/Black 1984 318i 370k *SOLD* (First Bimmer) Honorable Mentions: '71 2002, '87 325, '90 325ic, '92 525it, '93 325i, '94 530i
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#7
03-03-2014, 01:15 PM
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Thanks for the replys. To clarify, the ball joint that I am talking about is the one in the photo below.
This is the ball joint of the "upper" control arm (UCA) / tension strut rod. It is the foremost arm, or the one nearest the front of the vehicle. The housing fit up into the underside of the sterring knuckle and ball stud extends downward. (Not the "lower" contol arm (LCA) where the ball joint is seated in the control arm itself and stud fits into the steering knuckle.) A pickle fork and a BFH can usually take care of the LCA ball joint. The ball joint mounted in the steering knuckle, not so easy.
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_____________________________ 2001 e53 X5 3.0i (10/2000 build date) - Beige exterior, Beige/Sand interior w/ light wood
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#8
03-03-2014, 01:29 PM
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Im pretty certain you can use the tool on this... Just how a tierod goes into the knuckle - just this doesnt have an "arm" attached to it.
The flat part goes where the boot is and slim part ontop of the bolt. When you impact the bolt in on the tool, it pushes the boot part up and out. From recently replacing the front thrust arm which attaches to this, after that is off, there is enough room from the front of the knuckle (front of car direction) to put that tool on and pop it out.
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2006 X5 4.8is Fully Loaded
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#9
03-03-2014, 01:31 PM
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__________________
2006 X5 4.8is Fully Loaded
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#10
03-03-2014, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
The difference between the E30 in the video and the X5 is the orientation of the ball joint. That seperator works wonders when seperating a control from the ball joint stud. I have already completed that step and am now trying to get the ball joint itself (the whole assembly as seen in the photo above) out of the steering knuckle. I can take a picture later and post it to help clarify which ball joint I am talking about and why it is such a bear to get at. Thanks agian for the help.
__________________
_____________________________ 2001 e53 X5 3.0i (10/2000 build date) - Beige exterior, Beige/Sand interior w/ light wood
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