Ball Joint Removal? - Page 7

Fifty150hs · #1 10-23-2016, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hunds02

I know this thread as been beaten to death already, but didn't want to start a new one...

I have spent the better half of two days trying to remove the ball joint. First I kept the thrust arm attached and hammered with a 4 lb BFH for awhile. No bueno. I then rented the ball joint press from Autozone, which consists of a huge C clamp and a few plates and different size pipe stock. Before using this, I purchased the 3/4" Ball Joint Remover from Harbor Freight to separate the thrust arm from the ball joint so I can use the tool from Autozone. I didn't realize until later that ball joint press kit will not work as you would be essentially compressing the ears of the ball joint into the knuckle.

Next I decided to wack at it from the top with a punch and hammer. I already had the CV joint removed for some room. As you can see below, I did some damage, but not enough.

I've scoured the forum before posting, and the only other two options I can think of is renting a slide hammer that I do not know how to use for this case or (more preferably) purchase a super duty air hammer with a 3/4" tapered punch.

If anyone has any ideas please chime in. I'd like to get the car off the jack stands by next weekend (been 1 week already).

I used a screwdriver and a hammer. Put the screwdriver against the ball joint flange and the steering knuckle and pound. The flange will bend to the point the screwdriver blade can go in between the flange and steering knuckle. Keep pounding. The blade will act as a wedge and pull the ball joint down to where you can get a pry bar in there and finish pulling the ball joint. That's the way I did it anyway.

upallnight · #2 10-23-2016, 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fifty150hs

I used a screwdriver and a hammer. Put the screwdriver against the ball joint flange and the steering knuckle and pound. The flange will bend to the point the screwdriver blade can go in between the flange and steering knuckle. Keep pounding. The blade will act as a wedge and pull the ball joint down to where you can get a pry bar in there and finish pulling the ball joint. That's the way I did it anyway.

An air chisel will zip that balljoint off in no time. Here's a previous post about DIYer getting frustrated with DIYing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TiAgX5

IMHO, DIYers will eventually "give up" DIYing if they don't invest some of the money saved into tools.

Nothing more frustrating then a 3 hr job turning into a 3 day one because tools are lacking.

I upgraded my compressor ($300) and bought the gorilla impact gun ($100) to install a new transfer case chain & seals ($100). This turned a $100 job into a $500 job.

Huge repair cost jump, but the BMW dealer would have charged almost $3000 for a reman TC unit and over $1000 labor.

Future DIYs will be much quicker/less frustrating. Almost enjoyable!

This video shows it being done with just a hammer, but they don't show it actually coming off the spindle.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SIBppxXXNKc

hunds02 · #3 10-23-2016, 02:16 PM

Fifty, I will try your method out and see if I have any luck!

RFaber · #4 10-23-2016, 03:22 PM

Slip the strut bolts off and the thrust rods out of the way, then you can get a better whack at it with your bfh! You can also use a drift punch and a mfh ( medium hammer!!) and knock it loose (twist the ears you removed the bolts from! )
Don't forget the liberal application of heat to work in what ever loosening product you squirt on the ball joint.
I've had success with this method ( done dozens of these in the past!) I found that removing the knuckle from the truck , and placing it on a block or an anvil saves the strut from the wrath of the bfh!
Good luck!

RFaber · #5 10-23-2016, 03:28 PM

A slide hammer won't be appropriate to remove the ball joint.

hunds02 · #6 10-23-2016, 03:45 PM

RFaber,

The thrust arm is completely removed. I also loosened the wishbone from the engine side so I could move the axle out of the hub.

I've tried hammering with die punches and drifts and with various size hammers (1 - 4lbs). You can't twist the ears, they look as they are fused to the hub! Keep in mind this is on a 2005 with almost 180k in northeast climate (MD to MN to OH).

If it was summer time I would take my time and figure it out without getting the air hammer. But I'll be moving in a month and it's getting cold! - Thanks for your suggestion though!

StephenVA · #7 10-23-2016, 03:49 PM

Heat and hit repeat until it falls off

bcredliner · #8 10-23-2016, 04:21 PM

I use a thin chisel hitting toward the center near the bolt holes. A couple hits on one and then move to other end though my X has spent it's life in Texas.

RFaber · #9 10-23-2016, 08:46 PM

Ah, blessed with nice weather in the Pacific Northwest ! We're blessed with decent weather! If you can remove the knuckle you might be able to pry the ball joint ears away, and soak in a bit of penetrating oil. Then more blunt force trauma!! Good luck!

Junkycosmos · #10 10-23-2016, 08:59 PM

Do you have an air compressor ?
If you have tried the right tools as mentioned then its worth a mention that I've had good success with a non sanctioned tool in this situation: an air chisel / mini air hammer. Letting some PB blaster soak a few hours then the vibration seems to help. Usual caution since they hurt you or cause collateral damage.

Good luck.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BF0YXK6/