Ball Joint Removal?

[racingbmwm3]

Originally Posted by 4.8isX5

Here you go...

Harbor Freight ball joint seperator - YouTube

Skip to 28 seconds.

Yes, we understand how this works where the balljoint is connected to the arm getting removed. But the balljoint in question isn't mounted like this. There is nothing to lever against. Can't find a picture of just the balljoint, here it is circled. Once the tension strut is removed you are left with the balljoint in the knuckle. Thanks to Stunt for his picture in his 4.6 engine thread.

[upallnight]

Are you trying to remove the ball joint from the spindle?



A punch and BFH should be able to remove the joint from the spindle/hub. Once you remove the two bolts securing the joint to the spindle.

Or the control arm that attaches to the joint?

[tankowner]

Originally Posted by upallnight

Are you trying to remove the ball joint from the spindle?



Or the control arm that attaches to the joint?

LOL . . . Sorry if I am causing confusion. Yes, I am trying to get that damned balljoint out of the spindle/knuckle - just as you have it in the photo. Forget about the control arm, it's gone at this point - I just want to get the ball joint out of the knuckle.

I sprayed it up good with penetrating oil last night. When I get home this evening I am going to go after it with the pipe wrench as suggested by Junkycosmos and Kristophe. I will take photos later.

Thanks again.

[Edit] If I had the entire knuckle removed (as in your photo), I would just drive the darn thing out. What I am wanting to do is take it out without having to removed the entire knuckle. I realize it may come to this, but I am going to give the pipe wrech a shot first.

[4.8isX5]

Ohhhh... Ok i see, its mounted differently then i thought.


In this case rent the balljoint tool from advance auto, its a huge c clamp with different fittings that for example allows you to push on the stud while not putting pressure on the top of it.

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by 4.8isX5

Ohhhh... Ok i see, its mounted differently then i thought.


In this case rent the balljoint tool from advance auto, its a huge c clamp with different fittings that for example allows you to push on the stud while not putting pressure on the top of it.

You need to push from the top and not the stud to remove the ball joint.

[upallnight]

The ball joint is press fitted into the hub. The bolts are there just to prevent it from slipping out. Only way to get it out is to beat it out with a BFH. Or make yourself a tool with a Big C-Clamp some pipe stock and plate stock to push it out.

[Lamby]

Yeap, its the ball joint that is seated in the Knuckle alright. It's poor design if you ask me. I love it when e39'ers post the 'Oh, use the ball joint removal tool!" God Damn it, I wish I could. Those ball joints are stuck in their faster than an Alabama Tick.

I think this is about right

Its a painful job without an air chisel, as I said, I am good with a grinder and did mine with out damaging the knuckle, but you need time and patients. After you weaken the ball joint housing, then the BFH comes into play. Smash it, bang it, and go to town on it.... it will come out... but it makes you work for the victory.

Good luck.

[axgordon]

Last night did front suspension refresh on 05 4.4 with 125k miles. I did expect some struggle, but those ball joints put up some serious fight! On the left side, I had to cut ball out of the socket to remove it! The air hammer helped a lot, but not until major cutting with angle grinder. Both ball joint soaked with penetrating oil for over 24 hours. The whole job took over 4 hours. I spent half the time to complete same work on my 03 3.0 with 200K miles. On both cars these parts never replaced in the past.

[hunds02]

Originally Posted by Fifty150hs

Make sure you wire brush that rust and apply anti-seize to the new ball joint.

The wire brush attachment on the dremel was really good for cleaning all the rust off. Will put everything back together this weekend when the weather warms up!

Originally Posted by upallnight

This is the hammer that I used with my air hammer to knock out the ball joint. A chisel will just split the ball joint apart, while a punch may just knock a hole in the ball joint.

This hammer spreads the load of the punch throughout the top of the ball joint.
Also a long barrel air hammer is more effective since the hammer has a longer travel thus more force when it hit.

Is that a 1" hammer head? Was considering that but wasn't sure if that was too big for the top of the balljoint. I got a 3/4" tapered punch and it worked pretty well. It was a lot smaller than I thought it would be, so the 1" will definitely work too and is probably a better choice for the reasons you mentioned.

Originally Posted by Scott ZHP

One is drilled through, the other is blind. You cannot thread them in from the top, as the half-shaft is in the way.

That is correct. Although I did remove the half shaft from the hub as I am replacing my CV joint at the same time.

Originally Posted by Lamby

Yeap, its the ball joint that is seated in the Knuckle alright. It's poor design if you ask me. I love it when e39'ers post the 'Oh, use the ball joint removal tool!" God Damn it, I wish I could. Those ball joints are stuck in their faster than an Alabama Tick.
I think this is about right
Its a painful job without an air chisel, as I said, I am good with a grinder and did mine with out damaging the knuckle, but you need time and patients. After you weaken the ball joint housing, then the BFH comes into play. Smash it, bang it, and go to town on it.... it will come out... but it makes you work for the victory.
Good luck.

Thanks, I got the drivers side out a few days ago with the air hammer and will do the passenger side this weekend. Stay tuned for a video with the air hammer in action!

Originally Posted by axgordon

Last night did front suspension refresh on 05 4.4 with 125k miles. I did expect some struggle, but those ball joints put up some serious fight! On the left side, I had to cut ball out of the socket to remove it! The air hammer helped a lot, but not until major cutting with angle grinder. Both ball joint soaked with penetrating oil for over 24 hours. The whole job took over 4 hours. I spent half the time to complete same work on my 03 3.0 with 200K miles. On both cars these parts never replaced in the past.

Wow! I'm surprised you can't get it out with the air hammer from the start. Took me around 5 seconds, although mine was a super-duty Ingersoll Rand air hammer. What punch/hammer did you use on the air hammer? Also my drive axle was removed from the hub so I had more room to work with.

[4.8isX5]

Heres a video of the other tool i am talking about, this will do it.

How to Replace a Truck Ball Joint : How to Press Out a Truck's Lower Ball Joint - YouTube


You can rent at advance auto parts free just put a charge on card and once returned its refunded.