Ball Joint Removal? - Page 10

hunds02 · #91 10-27-2016, 06:23 PM

Can anyone comment on whether you need a special tool to press them in there, or will the torx screws be enough to press it in there?

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bcredliner · #92 10-27-2016, 06:42 PM

should be pressed in

upallnight · #93 10-27-2016, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hunds02

Can anyone comment on whether you need a special tool to press them in there, or will the torx screws be enough to press it in there?

Don't use the torx screws to pull them in. You couldn't use the big c-clamp and cups to push it out, but you can use it now to push it in. Most auto parts stores such as Autozone or O'reilley will loan you the tool for free.

Fifty150hs · #94 10-27-2016, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OnTouring

Would the anti-seize, while easing future removal, not compromise the security of the joint once installed?

Referencing the Workshop Manual,

"Keep recess for guide joint, bore in tension strut and guide joint
journal clean and free from grease."

BMW Workshop Manuals > X Series E53 X5 4.8is (N62-S) OFFRD > 2 Repair Instructions > 31 Front Axle > 12 Struts W.rubber Mounts > 3 RA Removing And Installing_replacing Guide Joint In Swivel Bearing

I wouldn't think so. It's the screws that are holding the ball joint in place.

bmw540san · #95 10-27-2016, 09:59 PM

When I did mine I sprayed PB blaster the day before and had no trouble removing them other than almost stripping torx bolts due to design and tight space.

Also, no issues when installing new ones. I just made sure that everything was clean and there was no need for pressing them in. They went in by hand effort.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...gs-delete.html

oldskewel · #96 10-27-2016, 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bmw540san

... no issues when installing new ones. I just made sure that everything was clean and there was no need for pressing them in. They went in by hand effort...

Similar to me ('01). Nothing difficult about pulling the old ones out or putting the new ones in. I used Lemfoerder for the replacements, which I think is what the originals were too. But they changed from internal Torx to external Torx for the screws (or vice versa, I don't remember).

Lamby · #97 10-28-2016, 04:40 AM

I can only second oldskewel, as I used Lemfoerder parts. Make sure the inside of the knuckle is free of rust and clean. PB or WD40 the hell out of it then copper grease the backside of the ball joint housing and the lugs where the torx slot through. Lets be safe on this one as its about to have 2 tons pressing it in until I have to change it out and likelyhood is it will be stuck in there like last time even with all my prep to make sure it doesnt. I need to switch my arms out as I want to install Powerflex blushings. Means that I will have to take off control arms and I am not so sure that I will not damage the ball joints so I am getting a couple of them from Europarts as they have a sale on.

Scott ZHP · #98 10-28-2016, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldskewel

Similar to me ('01). Nothing difficult about pulling the old ones out or putting the new ones in. I used Lemfoerder for the replacements, which I think is what the originals were too. But they changed from internal Torx to external Torx for the screws (or vice versa, I don't remember).

Mine too, but the bolts were so tight /corroded, the external E-torx heads just twisted off... despite heat, PBBlaster and careful persuasion. Probably why they changed the design (was external/E-torx, now supplied with internal/torx). Had to yank the knuckle and drill them out.