Brake Bleeding Problem

[StephenVA]

YES!
The sequence of bleeding is like so:
Rear Right
Rear Left
Front Right
Front Left[/I][/B]

Question: Is your vehicle right hand drive and is the master on the left or right? In the US the master is on the left (Driver's side)

Normally it takes 5X to get a great flow and all the air out. I personally do the power bleeding sequence then go back and do a manual bleed AFTER wards, using 80-90% pedal travel as some of the master cyl pistons will cross a water pock section of the bore and tear the piston cup edges. Once that happens you will never get a normal pressure stroke out of the master, forcing a master cyl replacement procedure.

Note: Smack each caliper with a SOFT faced hammer between bleeds as crap gets trapped in their as well. Due to the extra small brake lines and connectors, it takes a while to get clean flow all the way to the right rear as you are flushing the entire system line to that point.

Once the ABS system has air it will take more than a few approaches to clear out. Multiple people have posted that they actually had to drive and activate ABS involvement twice then go back and bleed again to clear all the air from the system.

Good luck.

[Best4x4xFAR]

Going though this nightmare now..
Had to replace a rotted out line to the passenger rear..
Have bleed the rear brakes multiple times..
Fresh new fluid coming out..
Pedal is like a marshmallow..

Guess I will have to locate and try a pressure bleeder next..

[RajB]

Originally Posted by Best4x4xFAR

Going though this nightmare now..
Had to replace a rotted out line to the passenger rear..
Have bleed the rear brakes multiple times..
Fresh new fluid coming out..
Pedal is like a marshmallow..

Guess I will have to locate and try a pressure bleeder next..

The ABS needs recycling to open the valve using the proper software as the rears have most likely bled out. That's the issue I had many years ago when I fitted my BBK.

[Best4x4xFAR]

Originally Posted by RajB

The ABS needs recycling to open the valve using the proper software as the rears have most likely bled out. That's the issue I had many years ago when I fitted my BBK.

Hmmm, I hope that is not the case, I guess that means a trip to the dealer, trying to avoid that.

I don't believe the Master Cylinder ever went dry, so trying to wrap my head around how I'd have gotten air into the ABS pump..

Going to go through and bleed everything again tonight and see what happens.
Worst that can happen is I'm out another bottle of fluid I guess...

[RajB]

Originally Posted by Best4x4xFAR

Hmmm, I hope that is not the case, I guess that means a trip to the dealer, trying to avoid that.

I don't believe the Master Cylinder ever went dry, so trying to wrap my head around how I'd have gotten air into the ABS pump..

Going to go through and bleed everything again tonight and see what happens.
Worst that can happen is I'm out another bottle of fluid I guess...

Ok if it didn’t run dry then should be ok but just does sound like it when you have fluid going through no issues when bleeding but no pedal.

A good Indy could do it for cheaper I’d have thought if you do have to go that route.

[Best4x4xFAR]

I bleed another container of fluid through it this weekend. Took it to a local parking lot. Pedal still like a marshmallow, but if you pressed deep down, it would stop the car..

Did a bunch of panic stopps, getting the ABS pump going. But it just seemed like the rear brakes were not engaging at all..

Originally Posted by RajB

The ABS needs recycling to open the valve using the proper software as the rears have most likely bled out. That's the issue I had many years ago when I fitted my BBK.

Well, broke down and took it to the dealer this morning. Explained that I though there was air trapped in the ABS Pump and needed them to have the computer run the bleed sequence to get it out..

Hour and half later they brought it around. $143 dollars sir..

Drove it, somewhat, but not alot better than it was..
Went back in, asked if they test drove it..
Service advisor drove it, said felt fine to him..
Asked if they had cycled the ABS pump, he had no idea of course..
Took it to the shop foreman..

Another hour and half later, Advisor tells me they ran the 'bleed program' from the computer and asks me to test drive it..

Light years better. I'm still a little unhappy with the pedal feel overall, but at least all the brakes are working, and it is safe to drive again.

Hoping my experience is like "Ashaman", in that I've got a solid pedal engine off, but soft engine on

Originally Posted by Ashaman074

I missed my next update, so I'll give a combined Day 4/5

Day 4 I was able to properly pressurize the reservoir. I performed a full bleed, at each point I pressurized the reservoir, opened the bleeder. Allows the attached hose to fully fill, submerged in a container of brake fluid. Pumped the brakes 5 times. Ran the DIS bleed procedure. Pumped the brake 5 times. Started the engine, pumped the brake 5 times. Ran the DIS bleed procedure. Closed the bleeder. Sounds ridiculous; but I got a TON of air out of the system, mainly at the passenger rear.

So, after this raindance, I had a fairly firm pedal with the engine off, but it was still soft with the engine running. Hoping my pedal firms up too over the next few days, but not holding out a lot of hope.

The next day after work, I basically repeated the exact same process. Afterwards, I had a pedal that was rock solid with engine off, and usable with the engine running. I still didn't think it was quite as good as before, but at least I could drive it and bed the pads in.

Today I drove it to work, and they feel great. Not sure why it is any different than last night, maybe the fluid was a bit aerated; but they are fantastic now.

I sometimes like to check it after driving a few days to ensure no additional air worked its way back out of the system, so I'll probably do that this time too - but for the time being I am just happy to lay it to rest - What a fiasco!

You can be darned sure I'll watch fluid levels like a hawk the next service; that is for sure!

But yeah, pressure bleeding running the "Bleed Procedure" routine were key. It was difficult enough and took enough time even with them, I don't think it ever would have been possible without them. I suppose this is pretty typical of any modern AWD vehicle, but it was a frustrating bit O' learning for sure. Thanks again to everyone who helped!

Thanks everyone for your feedback..

P.S. - Would be nice if you didn't have to tell the dealership that there is a procedure to run on the computer to get the air out of the ABS pump..

[FourPointEight-is]

Originally Posted by StephenVA

YES!

Question: Is your vehicle right hand drive and is the master on the left or right? In the US the master is on the left (Driver's side)

Master cylinder is on the front right of the car.

The ABS/DSC block is on the front left of the car (under the power steering reservoir).

Does this change the bleeding order?

Originally Posted by crystalworks

Just a thought though, I know it doesn't help with the frustrations.

Gotcha, but I'm not trying to save money here (I wouldn't have bought a 4.8L V8 in a country where fuel prices are pushing $1.53 AUD per LITRE). I want to be self sufficient here - I've tackled several more difficult jobs and this simple one has me by the balls!

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by FourPointEight-is

Gotcha, but I'm not trying to save money here (I wouldn't have bought a 4.8L V8 in a country where fuel prices are pushing $1.53 AUD per LITRE). I want to be self sufficient here - I've tackled several more difficult jobs and this simple one has me by the balls!

Understood. I didn't notice you were in Oz. Keep soldiering on and I wish you luck.