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  #61  
Old 07-07-2018, 07:04 AM
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No because the on-screen instructions say not to do that - it says:

1. Connect & pressurize bleeding equipment (which I presume is a pressure bleeder to the reservoir)
2. Open bleed screw
3. Run the "bleeding routine"
4. Actuate the brake pedal to limit 5 times - clear fluid should escape from the bleeder
5. Close the bleed screw

I follow those instructions to a T - no improvement after nearly 3 bleed cycles and over 2 liters of fluid bled through.
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  #62  
Old 07-07-2018, 08:23 AM
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This is how I used INPA to bleed the ABS module.

Open INPA.
Select E53
Select Chassis
Select appropriate DSC
Select Activate (F6)
Have second person put pressure on brake pedal
Select either F2 or F3 (ABS FL RL or FR RR) depending on which one you are bleeding
When you hear the ABS buzz, open the bleed valve. It will then make a second noise where is activates the valves at which point the pedal will start going down in pulses and the fluid will start coming out the caliper.
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  #63  
Old 07-08-2018, 11:30 PM
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upallnight, when I hit "F6" to activate - my INPA doesn't seem to have those bleed methods.
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Last edited by FourPointEight-is; 07-08-2018 at 11:31 PM. Reason: add screenshot of INPA
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  #64  
Old 07-08-2018, 11:32 PM
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However here is what the ISTA bleed screen looks like
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  #65  
Old 07-09-2018, 09:15 PM
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for the bleeder container do you have a tube/hose that is attached to the caliper bleed nipple and the other end of the tube/hose is below the fluid in the container? If the tube/hose is above the brake fluid that you are collecting in the container when you release the brake pedal after pushing to the floor it will suck back air into the system.
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  #66  
Old 07-09-2018, 09:17 PM
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It does, and my bleeding catch bottle has a 1-way check valve in it as well.

I am going to bleed 500 ML of (~15 oz) fluid through each caliper tonight... if that doesn't fix it then I'm not sure.
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  #67  
Old 07-09-2018, 10:38 PM
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I never pedal bleed anymore. Uses too much fluid and it is not unusual to have to do it several times to get a solid pedal. When I did pedal bleed I closed the bleeding valve before the pedal got to the floor. Pumped brake pedal up and did the same process over and over. Not unusual to see clear fluid for several cycles and then see more air bubbles.

Since brakes are rather important I think it is imperative to purchase a good quality pressure bleeder and follow the process in the ECS video posted. I have used a vacuum bleeder that was very effective also. I never use the same color fluid when bleeding. Shouldn't have any problems getting the brakes bled in all but the unusual circumstances.
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  #68  
Old 07-15-2018, 09:01 AM
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Exclamation

Hmm, unfortunately not making much progress here. I believe the situation has been made worse - of the 2 ports on the master cylinder, the one closest to the front of the vehicle is fine but the one that comes into the side of it has a slight leak. Looks like I just didn't tighten it enough... my fault for not checking this.

I bet there is a shit ton of air inside the system now. I tightened down the brake pipe (Had to really go to town on it to get it to stop leaking). Hopefully this hasn't introduced too much more air into the system (since the reservoir has been pressurized to >15 PSI for the duration of this exercise

Can someone outline the EXACT steps that they are using when bleeding.

Here's what I've been doing:
  1. Fill fluid + attach pressure bleeder to reservoir cap
  2. Pump up the pressure bleeder to at least 15 PSI
  3. Attach length of clear hose to the bleeder nipple valve & crack it open until I see fluid flow
  4. Run the "bleeding routine" in ISTA/D (screenshot above)
  5. After the bleeding routine completes, press brake pedal as far down as it'll go 5 times
  6. Repeat steps 4 & 5 until roughly 2-300 mL (10 oz) of fluid emerges from the caliper

The sequence of bleeding is like so:
  • Rear Right
  • Rear Left
  • Front Right
  • Front Left

Does that look right?

If yes, how many times should I expect to repeat on each corner before I notice an improvement?
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  #69  
Old 07-16-2018, 08:44 AM
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YES!
The sequence of bleeding is like so:
Rear Right
Rear Left
Front Right
Front Left[/I][/B]

Question: Is your vehicle right hand drive and is the master on the left or right? In the US the master is on the left (Driver's side)

Normally it takes 5X to get a great flow and all the air out. I personally do the power bleeding sequence then go back and do a manual bleed AFTER wards, using 80-90% pedal travel as some of the master cyl pistons will cross a water pock section of the bore and tear the piston cup edges. Once that happens you will never get a normal pressure stroke out of the master, forcing a master cyl replacement procedure.

Note: Smack each caliper with a SOFT faced hammer between bleeds as crap gets trapped in their as well. Due to the extra small brake lines and connectors, it takes a while to get clean flow all the way to the right rear as you are flushing the entire system line to that point.

Once the ABS system has air it will take more than a few approaches to clear out. Multiple people have posted that they actually had to drive and activate ABS involvement twice then go back and bleed again to clear all the air from the system.

Good luck.
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Last edited by StephenVA; 07-16-2018 at 08:51 AM.
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  #70  
Old 07-16-2018, 04:53 PM
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Going though this nightmare now..
Had to replace a rotted out line to the passenger rear..
Have bleed the rear brakes multiple times..
Fresh new fluid coming out..
Pedal is like a marshmallow..

Guess I will have to locate and try a pressure bleeder next..
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