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#11
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Quote:
Rear springs are prone to snap on the E46's. Quite a common issue on them for example. |
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#12
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Just wondering why I need a wheel alignment when I would change the shocks.
From that picture I would believe that everything stays in place when replacing them.
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#13
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I've been doing my suspension now for two weekends in a row (parts issues from the shipping company). What did you do about the rear self-leveling? I've got BC Racing coilovers I'm installing and the guy who was going to help me fix the issue has disappeared...short of disconnected the pump and getting an error code on the OBC, there must be a way to address having a lowered X and still have functioning self leveling.
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650hp 10 X5///M - Stage 2, Vibrant 1794's , gutted cats, custom intake, AC Forged 22's 325hp 98 BMW 740iL - ///M5 6spd, www.bavengine.com w/ Performance Option, electric fan, CF intake tube w/ heatshield, Mag 14816 w/ notched bumper, Bilstein/H&R Stage II/Powerflex 600+hp 02 Harley F150 - MHP900 Stage 3 engine, KB2.3, 8# lower, 60# inj, Walbro FP's 135hp 01 TL1000R - M4 full exhaust, K&N, Yosh box, -1/+2 gears, 2CT's
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#14
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That's outrageous....it IS the dealer though. If they can actually get someone to pay that, my hats off to them! Lol.
If you're doing just the front struts, an alignment is not necessary....if you were taking apart any more than that on the front, I'd get it don't for piece of mind.
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2004 X5 3.0i Mod list: Currently Longer than the maximum allowed characters that can be typed here... ![]() |
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#15
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Tbh after doing any sod of suspension work you should ideally get an alignment done. New parts will potentially give different geo. It's your call really.
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#16
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#17
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Is there any way to protect the springs from rust?
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Motivation can change what you do, but inspiration can change who you are. --------------------------------------------------------- 2003 BMW X5 3.0i, Black Sapphire, 287,423 km and kicking! ![]() www.sam-medina.com My online graphic novel: ![]()
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#18
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At this point I'm just going to leave the power to the pump disconnected, but I know I'm going to get an error message until I address it properly.
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650hp 10 X5///M - Stage 2, Vibrant 1794's , gutted cats, custom intake, AC Forged 22's 325hp 98 BMW 740iL - ///M5 6spd, www.bavengine.com w/ Performance Option, electric fan, CF intake tube w/ heatshield, Mag 14816 w/ notched bumper, Bilstein/H&R Stage II/Powerflex 600+hp 02 Harley F150 - MHP900 Stage 3 engine, KB2.3, 8# lower, 60# inj, Walbro FP's 135hp 01 TL1000R - M4 full exhaust, K&N, Yosh box, -1/+2 gears, 2CT's
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#19
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Until this thread, I've NEVER heard of that in the years I've been on these or any BMW forums, and even then it's only been mentioned here that it's something that happens on E46's. I don't think you need to start worrying yourself about it. I just removed my springs and I've got almost 140k and there wasn't rust on anything and I live in Seattle where it never stops raining.
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650hp 10 X5///M - Stage 2, Vibrant 1794's , gutted cats, custom intake, AC Forged 22's 325hp 98 BMW 740iL - ///M5 6spd, www.bavengine.com w/ Performance Option, electric fan, CF intake tube w/ heatshield, Mag 14816 w/ notched bumper, Bilstein/H&R Stage II/Powerflex 600+hp 02 Harley F150 - MHP900 Stage 3 engine, KB2.3, 8# lower, 60# inj, Walbro FP's 135hp 01 TL1000R - M4 full exhaust, K&N, Yosh box, -1/+2 gears, 2CT's
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#20
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If you want you can spray the coils with some underbody coating, or rust killer paint, and touch up whenever.
Also im not 100% sure on coil model e53. But there is a front camber adjustment and i believe it is performed up top where the 3 bolts are in the engine bay, so you may need one. Otherwise it should just be the tierod adjustment.
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2006 X5 4.8is Fully Loaded
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