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  #141  
Old 10-24-2014, 03:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bugbyte View Post
Hey Brian,

Is there a way to set the thermostat to kick in for few minutes after the ignition is off? I think this would required a micro controller to achieve this setup. Just a though.
Not necessary to do anything special. That's how mine is wired. It is activated by an aftermarket adjustable electric fan controller. I have a temp sensor inserted in the radiator fins that the electric fan controller reads. Regardless if the key is on or off the electric fan will run when the temperature exceeds the setting.

When I turn the engine off after it has reached operating temp the fan continues to run until the temp drops below the temp setting. It takes about 2 minutes for that to happen. For the next 20-30 minutes the fan will come on for about 15-30 seconds about every 5-10 minutes until the radiator temp stays below the thermostat setting. Absolutely no problem with the battery.

Other wiring options are key on fan on, A/C on can be a secondary trigger or thermostatically controlled but stays off when key is off. Because Texas is so hot the best choice is as I have it wired.

The setting for the thermostat is adjustable. I have it set so the electric fan comes just before the OEM pusher fan kicks on.
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  #142  
Old 10-24-2014, 05:14 PM
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[QUOTE=bcredliner;1013615] For the next 20-30 minutes the fan will come on for about 15-30 seconds about every 5-10 minutes until the radiator temp stays below the thermostat setting.

That's an item to remember when you're inspecting something under the hood after a run. A "Caution Fan" label comes to mind if you know what I mean, just to help you remember. At least it would help me remember, because your memory is the second thing to go...I forget the first!

It's been great to follow your progress on this and the information is appreciated. When I worked for a class VIII truck manufacturer, we considered a four electric pusher fan array to replace the mechanical fan, but determined the cooling requirements of a 12L diesel engine under full load would require some massive electric motors on those fans.

I don't know if you do any towing, but it will be interesting to see how your cooling performs transitioning from a high load operation period like a hard highway run in one of our 100+ degree days to idling in traffic. Looking forward to a follow-up next summer!

2002 X5 3.0 264,700 miles
2004 325i 116,500 miles
  #143  
Old 10-24-2014, 05:46 PM
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I don't do any towing.

The fan is shrouded, not able to get pinkies in there but good point to address anyway.

The fan was in place for some of the 100+ degree days. I drove to Ft. Worth using 35, over 50 miles one way. I was running 70-80 mph most of the time. On the way back there was an accident that backed traffic up several miles, seldom got out of first gear--no problem whatsoever.
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  #144  
Old 10-24-2014, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srmmmm View Post
At least it would help me remember, because your memory is the second thing to go...I forget the first!


Wait. What was I laughing at?
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  #145  
Old 12-21-2014, 03:03 AM
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Fan controller

I have used the "auto cool 85 a" from Auto Cool Guy. Works flawlessly with the electric fans on my 540 6 speed and the e53. It keeps fans on for about 30 to 40 seconds after engine is shut off. It's a pwm controller. Very easy install. Highly recommend for anyone doing fan delete.
  #146  
Old 06-26-2015, 12:10 PM
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Update--The temperature controller fried for some reason. The fuse link did not blow. I happened to have just pulled into the garage so I smelled the melting wires. I replaced the controller and installed a new fuse link with a lower amp fuse. It is a week later and all is normal.
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  #147  
Old 06-26-2015, 05:12 PM
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I have yet to do this on my E53, but I've had a Spal fan in place of the mechanical fan on my E39 Touring for several years now.

After reading reviews on many of the "smart" controllers failing, I didn't want to use parts that were not easily and quickly replaceable.

I ended up grabbing a piece of Aluminum tubing that I had around the shop that fit the stock radiator hose (same size as some of the compressor bypass pipes we use on turbocharged cars), cut a 3" section of it, and bead rolled the ends.

I then welded on a 3/8" NPT port on it, and used a GM temperature switch (I think it was off of a Saturn application) to control the fan relay.

I used a Spal puller fan that *just* fit inside of the stock shroud without trimming it.

I used a similar setup with a Taurus/MK V fan on my Wrangler to get rid of that mechanical fan. Both have worked great for years now, and I don't have to disconnect the fan to remove the shroud. 20-25 minute water pump replacements are nice.
  #148  
Old 06-26-2015, 08:18 PM
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Interesting way to go.Thanks for passing it on. I am not convinced the controllers are the way to go either but I find them easily secured from Jegs and Summit racing. The optimum for me would be a digital readout controller that I could adjust to exactly the temperature I want from inside the car.

I had to remove the shroud for proper install the but no trimming was necessary either. The fan I chose covers about 80-85% of the area available within the shroud. Anything over 70% is fine and I selected a fan with high CFM to be sure I had significant excess cooling capability.

I agree a big plus is all the space it frees up to easily get to stuff on the front of the engine.

I installed the same controller this time in hopes the failure was a fluke. That way I could use the existing wiring. I may learn it was not a wise thing to do but the adjusting dial on the two had very different resistance so my judgment or lack thereof is that the first one was defective.

Using electric fans for me goes back many many years and many different applications It has always been a worthwhile investment. I even go back to when flex fans were very popular. The blades flattened out at higher RPMs for less drag on the engine. Haven't checked I bet they still sell them. Offered far better cooling at an idle and were like nothing was there when you put the pedal to the metal.

All my applications I have have been on engines that were modded. Now as before an electric fan verses a mechanical fan stands up tall to my cost/benefit formula.
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  #149  
Old 06-27-2015, 02:26 AM
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How come you installed the controller and spal instead of the oem electric fan from a 4.8is? I did the same as you though, but only because I didn't realize that was an option, and when I did I found out that fan is kinda pricey.
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  #150  
Old 06-27-2015, 10:21 AM
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I didn't choose a Spal fan. I chose a Flex-A-Lite fan. I decided it was the best combination of diameter, slimness and CFM for my application.

I was aware of the 4.8 fan. I went the aftermarket route so I could determine the activation temperature. I wanted to be sure it delivered excess CFM air flow and I wanted the electric fan to operate independent of the BMW cooling system controls, especially after the engine is shut off.
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