Help! Engine malfunction:reduced power. stuck in Chicago

[ard]

Originally Posted by Haneifk

Sophisticated redneck,
thank you for your help! If they don't take the car back I'll start going thru those when I get it home and hopefully that'll fix it. I do all my own work and have some experience with BMW so hopefully it won't end up costing a ton.

Ard,
yes I bought it without an inspection and yes that was really stupid of me. Probably one of the dumbest things I've ever done The warranty is a full powertrain warranty (but maybe I'm being naieve? I've never had to use a warranty before so I don't know) saying it covers everything inside the engine/trans/diff/drive shaft etc for the 3mo/3k mile

Also I found a shop that had a scan tool and found 2f24(charge air, cooling system) and 30ff (pressure control boost) going to start researching those now

Also a friend of a friend is a lawyer here in Chicago and there's an addendum that I signed that would allow me to return the car if it has a powertrain issue in the first 15 days? So hopefully I'll have a case to return it.

Also Ard thank you for sharing this post. Much appreciated!

I'm so thankful for all your guys help!


Edit: from what I'm seeing online maybe a wastegate broke off? I'm having the same problem as this guy. "Engine malfunction: reduced power" Error comes on at highway speeds only. Goes off after car restart

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...topics/1178497

it isnt a 'cooling system' fault- both are related to boost and boost control. As I am sure your research has shown, this can be nothing or a big something.


Here's the thing.... if this is a low mile, meticulous maintained car that just happened to throw a code, thats one thing.


If this car has had issues, has been worked on, modded, abused...people have tried to fix it, finally it got reset and sold...and you just found these two codes, that is a WAY different thing.


You have NO way of knowing which. Assume they are lying until you can prove that assumption wrong.


Be very very careful. The safest thing is to bail, return it. Leave it.



They will offer to look into it, maybe fix it... but there is nthing that can do that can clarify HOW the car got to the state it is in. THAT is the challenge. Indeed, they may be controlling the mechanic in this process, so you really are a bit hamstrung. (and if they are letting you fix the car, and you are on the hook for getting the money back from the 'warranty' company that is a bad deal as well.)


Dont fall into the trap of thinking "if I just figure out what these two codes mean, I can fix it and drive it home"


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dy82jpb2kbw