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  #31  
Old 03-17-2023, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E-series ftw View Post
My VVT module was full of water. I mean full!! (read the previous posts)
Both 40amp fuses appear to be intact
Both of them? Did you order 2 replacements? I'd still check for power there, not just fuse continuity.

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Originally Posted by E-series ftw View Post
Can you elaborate on how to do this sync? Can it be done with ISTA?
I can't remember the specifics but am 90% sure I did it though ISTA. Your list of codes tells me you won't have to worry about it.
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  #32  
Old 03-17-2023, 04:10 PM
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Cool

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Originally Posted by gpeterson View Post
Both of them? Did you order 2 replacements? I'd still check for power there, not just fuse continuity.
There is only one VVT module that controls 2 servos on the 4.8 V8
I'm guessing this is the reason for showing 2 red VCT modules?


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Originally Posted by gpeterson View Post
I can't remember the specifics but am 90% sure I did it though ISTA. Your list of codes tells me you won't have to worry about it.
Yeah, that's what I'm hoping will happen....that I'll have to do nothing

Hopefully the used module doesn't come up blue

Last edited by E-series ftw; 03-17-2023 at 04:16 PM.
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  #33  
Old 03-17-2023, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E-series ftw View Post
There is only one VVT module that controls 2 servos on the 4.8 V8
I'm guessing this is the reason for showing 2 red VCT modules?
Maybe I spaced out on that since I haven't had the e-box open for months. Sounds plausible - one physical module that appears as two modules in ISTA.

Confirmed in WDS - https://bmwteka.com/wds/en/e70/4f7b7ebe
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  #34  
Old 03-26-2023, 11:12 AM
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I ordered a used VVT module on ebay. Cost me CAD $80 including shipping. Before I started cutting wires and replacing pigtails, I had another look at the connectors, which I had sprayed with Fluidfilm a couple weeks ago. Remarkably, the corrosion was heavily diminished and I could see a brassy-copper colour in almost all of the pin sockets, so I decided to remove the broken pin and see what would happen just plugging the module in.

(Oh, and for anyone curious on how to remove a broken pin easily, snap off a new blade on an Olfa knife and use the sharp point on the blade to pry it out.)

I reconnected the battery after plugging in the DME and VVT modules and hit the start button and it started and ran! Albeit, very sluggishly, and I had no throttle response whatsoever. In fact touching the throttle resulted in a stall.

So, I connected ISTA and saw to my amazement the the VTC modules were now green! So much for these companies that claim the module won't work unless it's paired with DME and CAS. Well, that's a $500 bullet dodged.

I ran the prodedure to test the limits of the VVT servos and I could definitely hear a servo spinning up from under the hood. But the test was aborted because ISTA showed that servo 2 was not responding. Looking into the electrical schematic, I saw the two relays and two 40A ATC fuses and remembered they were in the DME box, so I popped the fuses out again. I think I mentioned before that one of them looked like it had started to melt, but appeared to still be closed.
An ohmmeter check proved the opposite. Now, I don't recall in all my years as a mechanic, seeing and ATC fuse rated higher than 30A, so I was not surprised that there were none on the shelf at Canadian Tire. So I bought a different style of 40A fuse that has the same 1/4" blade socket as the ATC fuse. I made up two 3" long wire assemblies and installed the makeshift fuse.

I don't even think the engine cranked a full revolution and it started and idled smoothly, with very snappy throttle response. I let it warm up for about 15 minutes and until I felt pressure in the coolant hoses, before taking it for a short, slow drive around the neighbourhood. Everything felt great. No suspension or steering noises were heard and engine felt responsive and strong.

Now I have to tackle the trio of brake, ABS and 4x4 lights on the dash, likely related to the transfer case servo motor. ISTA won't let me run the servo calibration because there is a code present, despite clearing all fault codes and retrying the calibration procedure. Luckily, I have a spare servo from my X3, that has a good plastic gear inside.

Last edited by E-series ftw; 03-26-2023 at 11:25 AM.
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  #35  
Old 03-26-2023, 09:11 PM
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After running the car a while, and driving it a bit more (it's not road legal, so I'm staying in the neighbourhood) a few things popped up that I haven't seen until today. The adaptive headlights warning came on, accompanied by a flashing green light on the headlamp switch. Additionally, the fog lights do not illuminate, despite the green indicator showing up on the dash, and the fact that I tried them back when the vehicle didn't run, and they worked. Also a warning about sunroof entrapment.
After another scan with ISTA I now see a few new fault codes.

002C9D DME: Oxygen sensor heating before catalytic converer 2, activation
002F71 DME: Electronics-box fan, activation
00601D and 00601E EMF: DSC interface: Signal invalid

Also it's showing the PDC module now as red in the control unit tree. and it's giving me a code S 0158 for no communication with the Park Distance Control, but the PDC system is working perfectly fine on the display and operates perfectly fine.

Also, after another attempt to calibrate the transfer case servo, I got as far as identifying the resistor. (it was a single character; can't remember if it was a letter or a number) and the VTC coding faults are gone, but it still wouldn't let me calibrate the servo, because it said it couldn't calibrate it "fault-free"

I'm going to get into the FRM and JBE and see what condition the connectors are in. I think the FRM might be a bit easier to get out. The JBE swings down but there's some kind of hinge with tabs that might take a person with 3 arms to extricate.
I still haven't solved the always on ambiance lights in the overhead console, so I'm hoping some reseating of the connectors will help with a few things.
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  #36  
Old 03-27-2023, 10:44 AM
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Progress is progress. Congrats.
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  #37  
Old 03-27-2023, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E-series ftw View Post

002C9D DME: Oxygen sensor heating before catalytic converer 2, activation.

Look at the schematics for the O2 sensor...the preheater circuit may be supplied by a fuse under the DME. if the fuse is blow, you get an immediate code. (other O2 sensor faults will take a while to collect the data that indicates a problem- not the preheat circuit)
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  #38  
Old 03-27-2023, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ard View Post
Look at the schematics for the O2 sensor...the preheater circuit may be supplied by a fuse under the DME. if the fuse is blow, you get an immediate code. (other O2 sensor faults will take a while to collect the data that indicates a problem- not the preheat circuit)
https://bmwteka.com/wds/en/e70/02a363d5

looks like the fuse is in the JBE.

Although......

When I installled the used VVT module, I made a mistake. I accidentally forgot to install the DME cover. It rained overnight and the DME box accumulated about a gallon of water in it. Luckily, I had pulled the battery the night before, in anticipation of digging into the JBE and FRM modules the next morning, but forgot to check the forecast. I removed the DME and VVT modules and opened them up, but luckily they had not taken in any water. I Used a long 1/8" drill bit and put a hole in the bottom of the DME box to get the water out. This is probably why I got the DME box fan code also, but I was unaware there was a fan in the box. I guess I'll have to get it out of there and see if I can resurect it or replace it if necessary, along with checking F43 in the JBE.


Additionally, I will check the DME connectors again, as I see the DME provides the path to ground for the heater circuit

https://bmwteka.com/wds/en/e70/2152dba4

Last edited by E-series ftw; 03-27-2023 at 06:51 PM.
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  #39  
Old 03-27-2023, 11:56 PM
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yeah, so the DME grounds the one side of the heater- if it doesnt see current immediately, it trips a code.


I once hit some road debris and exploded the connector box on the underside of my M62... drove fine, no issues- but then the next am an immediate code. The wiring to the heater side of the O2 was open. SInce the car was warmed up and driving, the DME didnt check it untl the next cold start.


You could check for 12V on pin 4 of the pre O2. (pin 1 of post O2s)..

GL!
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  #40  
Old 04-12-2023, 02:34 PM
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Update and Question:

Update.
After running a hair dryer in the DME box for a half hour, the DME box fan error is now gone.
Sadly, the 02 heater code still exists, but I'll tackle that at a later date, as it is not a critical error at the moment.

I'm still doing research on the 00601D and 00601E error codes that have been there since day 1 and I'm hoping this coming weekend's task of replacing the plastic gear inside the transfer case servo will solve that issue, since I hear no servo noises at all under the vehicle.

Question:

I have no fog lights operation, despite the dash indicator coming on.
I get an adaptive headlamps warning after driving a 1/4 mile.

I have a 00E097 code for a faulty GWS receiver transmitter FRM

I have no other FRM-based issues.

Would these issues warrant purchasing a PROG 5.55 arrangement to reflash the FRM, or could this be just separate, isolated issues?
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