Holy shit :)

I like the dirty and also the clean look :thumbup:

May I ask what camera/lens/settings you used for this shot?
Very sharp , clear and lots of detail ...:2thumbs:

Thanks sir.

I took that pic with an iPhone 6 Plus then used snap seed to edit the photo. I highly recommended snapseed for all photo editing on the iphone or android. It takes an ok picture and turns it into amazing.

2006 4.8is RPM jump during low RPM Acceleration
 

Hi Guys,

I have a 2006 4.8is that, to put lightly, has gone through quite a lot of repairs over the last 15K.

Right now the issues I am seeing is hard to put my thumb on. lets say i put the transmission into manual mode, 4th gear, 40mph, at about 2k RPMs, pressing the throttle half way (not even full throttle) to pass or accelerate, the RPMs jump about 750 RPMs, and stay there while the car is accelerating then they seem to 'mesh' and climb together from there. this only happens in lower gears and not 5th and 6th. in automatic, it basically acts like a CVT transmission just sitting at one RPM while the car is accelerating and going through gears.... ANY help would be awesome.

Other issues seem to be electrical/voltage issues, nav screen changes colors often, and i replaced the IVM recently, which seems to fix some problems (Low RPM torque - voltage to injectors?) for about a day, and then went back to its regular self. whatever is going on seems to affect the injectors: exhaust note is really quite for some reason, and again, low end torque is almost non-existent.

Thanks in advance for your help guys, I truly appreciate it.

With transmission in automatic mode does it accelerate normally from standing start?

I checked it again this morning with a mildly spirited take off from a stop; RPMs basically sit within 500rpm of each other all the way through the gears, so needle is basically staying at the same RPM. when i left off the gas it will jump all the way back to what RPM it should be at.

down shifts in manual mode do not slip AT ALL.... For some reason, i feel like the low voltage to injectors and loss of torque is causing the motor and tranny to make up for this.. but i am not properly educated on this type of error.

It wouldn't be the first time that a new part was defective or failed shortly after installation or something else is wrong that is frying IVMs. That is a possibility since all of your problems went away for a day when you installed the new IVM.

My next steps would be to check for codes, load test the battery and monitor alternator output in real time.

I just had my thermostat etc.. replaced yesterday and the engine is not throwing any codes and no check engine light. I heard problems with IVM etc dont throw codes, so i would assume load testing the battery and monitoring voltages is the next best step? I have no idea how to do this so i will probably have to take it in to my indy to check eh? Thanks for the help so far!

EDIT: I guess i need to find the root of the cause that is tripping the IVM and what that typically might be.

Most auto parts store that sell batteries will do a load test for free. Some can test the entire charging system. Unlocking the cluster to monitor the alternator is easy.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO_tBe58ew8

Guess who dropped a bit over ten grand on repairs this month? ;)

Don't let the emoji fool you, it stings. On the plus side I have new inlet grillls, new wheels and a new, from-BMW, transmission. Pics and a more detailed write-up when I get her back next week.

I never thought my X5 would cost more to run than my M3. Good thing I love it.