Pulled the head unit to replace the LCD. Broke the bezel in two and broke off one of the locking clips on the connections. But it's out now, sitting on my workbench aka dining-room table for tomorrow's surgery.

Well that was a fail. The unit powers up but the new screen stays dark. So either I f'd up those fragile-ass ribbon cables or it's a bad unit. Probably the former. Those ribbins are evil... I've reseated the two that come out of the assembled faceplate and connect to the main unit. One of those had been mangled a little and the white tab came unglued. I got it back in as far as I can tell with a little flashlight. Maybe it's the other one connecting the screen to the board...

Gonna run it dark for now, I don't have it in me to take it apart again... what a pain in the ass!

Anyone got a scrap one? Doubt I can buy new ribbon cables anywhere.

edit: I found the copper-colored ribbons on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/264953104853

But if the one that goes from the LCD to the board is broken, well, that one seems to be unobtanium.

@Salty B

I have this that I took out of my E53 to do a android auto carplay upgrade.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/276100267718

Is this what you are looking for?

Nope. I have the widescreen double-DIN unit.

My guess is that one of the ribbon cables popped loose at some point, or was never secured during your installation. I did the same replacement and the ribbon cables are very finnicky, and I remember having to backtrack for some reason, and noticed one had popped loose (before testing, thank goodness). I believe I used a pair of tweezers to shove the ribbon cables into place and I just lightly pushed at different points along the back side of the connector until I was sure everything was snug.

The white plastic tab that came unglued left sticky goo on the end of the cable so I'm wondering if that goo is causing a bad connection. That end of it is fully-inserted into the slot. Only other possibility is the white ribbon from LCD to board and that one I double-checked., but I suppose I'll have to tear it all apart again. Maybe this weekend.

the door handle carrier broke at the mechanics shop.... so that's getting replaced now after a temperary fix. New plugs have improved the rattle strangely enough, I guess idle at cold was a bit lumpier than I thought.

https://i.imgur.com/FbnkX0N.jpg
new front suspension bushings going in today
https://i.imgur.com/ul5lCiT.jpg
also having a new timing chain tensioner installed, just in case.

Good news: handling is nice and tigh, no more rattle at startup.

Bad news: still a pronounced shudder at highway speeds and braking. Front wheels were rebalanced, I think I'll have all 4 checked for balance and trueness.

also bad news, expensive :D

I went through similar. The reminding shudder was from worn steering gear.

Have somebody steer left/right while you have your hand or better a stethoscope on the steering rack and listen/feel for a dreaded click/tick as the backlash ticks.

You can overcome to some extent by setting up alignment slightly toe in and by braking more firmly (will pull the wheels toe out vs. neutral where they will wobble like shopping cart (trolley).

I found a used gear set for $75 I never got to install but I'm certain shipping would be to crazy to be helpful for you.

hmm, the steering does still have a slight click... does that mean new/rebuilt steering rack?