to do this weekend:

1. Repair missing pixel from bad ribbon on mid radio
2. Replace couple pieces of interior cracked wood trim
3. Glue loose exterior trim on driver door
4. Post pics of finished product in this thread :thumbup:

pulled the trigger on shark software, headers, and uuc (:
should be fun!
installing on my 5mt 3.0i

^Let me know how you like the shark! I'll be getting one soon as well :)

Hahaha I thought you already had one!!! Thats why I pulled the trigger. Well I'm hoping I will... I saw nothing but good reviews except for last night right before I bought it is saw one guy say it won't do much at all. But it should help with my headers now I need a high flow intake.

Everyone I've spoken to said it improves throttle response and driveability so I'm sure you'll enjoy it. Its not going to make a huge difference like chipping a turbo car though

I'll like it I know I will. My x is stock as far as performance and honestly iv been Dippin around. 5mt my x is pretty alive and quick without it so I should notice a difference with everything I ordered.

What about doing some headers too?

just changed my hid bulbs x2 cost about 45.00 can for both kept to the factory 4300 specs as I was happy with them was thinking about the 6000 ,but changed my mind. about a 15 min job max super easy.

Ordered them, they are on the way. It will definitely be great with the shark and short shifter

What ones did you go with

Oil change, oil filter housing gasket replacement, CCV replacement, and dipstick tube replacement. Busy day for the X5. Took me about four hours since it was my first ofhg/ccv replacement. Someone replaced it all in 2008 with a mix of cold weather and non cold weather pieces. I was also able to keep the ccv jacket on just by trimming down a few spots.

http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/v...psbvjstkif.jpg

Did the same ebay as others said to do. Got them look great I'll need to take pics

Nice work Josh. Pretty good time too. :thumbup:

Would take me a lot longer to do all that... but I remove the intake to do the CCV so.

Thanks. It was easier than I anticipated. Is there a reason you take the entire manifold off?

Just received my new rotors and pads for the rear. Will install them tomorrow.

Gorilla hands... only reason. If I try to do with it on (done it before) my hands get all chewed up and I get really pissed off. :D

Josh nice work, it took me about 4-5 hours as well, I didn't do the OFHG (how many miles on yours?) - Noticed my oil consumption basically go away after the CCV/dipstick tube job I did last June as well. (My parts were all original 2003 parts)

I'm sure you're glad to get the job done before the temps drop

I still can't find a good solution to get my brake dust off my back rims btw, any suggestions for what has worked for you guys?

Are you talking about baked on brake dust? You may need a mild wheel acid

yeah, there's a few areas in between the nooks and crannies on my back rims

I just wanted to see what you guys have used so I don't mess up my rims lol

Start with a ferrous fighting wheel cleaner - Sonax Wheel Cleaner Plus comes to mind. If that doesnt work, let me know

Ok thanks,

if I can't find it at Autozone or Advanced Auto Parts I'll just order it from Amazon

on a sidenote I got my windshield tinted awhile back ago so after about a week I still had bubbles to went to get it fixed for free from my guy and apparently water leaked into my MID radio unit because when I turned on the car some of the pixels were missing, I told the owner and he will purchase a new radio and install it for me free of charge

the stock e53 radio is awesome and def glad I am getting a brand new one

Try amazon or our sponsor Phil @ Detailers Domain - I haven't bought anything from a box store in years in regards to cleaning products

perfect, will do!

iron x, I've used it, it smells like hell, but works like magic! search youtube videos.

Thank you, I will check this out too!

Replaced engine air filter & cabin air filter on my new-to-me X yesterday.

One of the metal clips on the engine air filter housing came completely off and fell to the bottom of the engine compartment (or at least, that's what it sounded like). I'm brand new to the E53 so not sure how to get it... :dunno:

I'm at 170k now. I had some slight oil seepage on the reenforcement plate and I haven't been able to trace it to anywhere, so I figured it very well may be the ofhg, but upon removal it didn't seem overly saturated so we'll see.

I'm hoping this also cures my oil consumption. I have been trying to get this done all summer but didn't have time. Luckily I had some time this weekend, just for the snow to hit the mountains last night

Way higher than me. I'm at 82k now, did my CCV at 76k last year. I checked the notorious weeping location when I had the TB out and it looked dry so my OFHG should be good for a while now.

Probably will do it around 100-110k or so just for preventative and peace of mind. Or if I have to do the alternator or am in the area in the future

RB what kind of consumption were you seeing? I currently go 1200 miles per quart of the normal 5W-30, but 2000 miles per quart in the summer when I run the "M" 10W-60. I'm due for another CCV service interval soon and may go ahead and swap out the dipstick tube even though I hadn't noticed any issues with them in Texas.

Maybe fellow Texans TiAgX5 and bcredliner have similar experience to yours?

2002 X5 3.0 290,000 miles
2004 325i 123,000 miles

It is pretty straight forward. Kind of a hassle to clean the area though. Just when you think the OFH is empty, it dumps more and makes a bigger mess.

I was getting about the same consumption. Hopefully it is better now. I'd get the new tube. The new design makes so much more sense and it is so easy to replace with everything already torn apart.


I had to go to the dealer today to pick up the oil filter housing cap orings. I thought I had them, then cut off the old ones, then realized the orings were for something else. The BMW tax is real.

http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps6wexaegg.jpg

Hey man, before the CCV/dipstick tube change to upgraded parts, I would go approx 4-5k miles before "check engine oil level" came up and I'd be 1-2 quarts low to get it between min and max. I've done 5k miles since last oil change (due within next week or two) and the oil level hasn't budged much at all, maybe 1/2 quart low.

I'm running Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 year round here in Jersey.

:wow:That's amazing! The only time I've ever gotten more than 3000 miles on a quart was doing a quick turnaround trip from Arlington, Tx to Hartsville, SC. I'm going to have to take a complete look at that CCV system and dipstick tube on this interval.

2002 X5 3.0 290,000 miles
2004 325i 123,000 miles

Really? All the m54 equipped cars I've owned leaked a quart or less on my 5000 - 7500 mile intervals. These were in 3 e46's though.

Interested to see if you CCV system is the issue.

I use acid type wheel cleaner to get baked in brake dust off. just don`t breath when using it?

I've always changed oil and filter at 5000 miles. I use Royal Purple 5-30. At oil change I am about 1/2 quart low. Consumption has been about that or a little less for many years.

any idea how to determine what kind of low beam bulbs one has?

I have a 2004 E53 3.0, would it be in the manuel?

Just got the "check side lights" message and determined it's my passenger low beam that needs to be replaced.

Maybe this is a perfect time to get an upgrade kit from bimmian? :)

thanks that seems to be what a lot of people have been saying especially for the baked brake dust

^Serb do you have xenon or halogen? "Check side lights" is usually the angel eye bulbs on the facelift models

Yep, or side market lights. Low beam failures should specify.

Interesting observation and exactly what we experience with my wife's e46 also. I wonder if there's that much difference between the 2.5L and 3.0L versions, although hers is a 2004 model and mine a 2002.

2002 X5 3.0 290,000 miles
2004 325i 123,000 miles

Quote, "Maybe fellow Texans TiAgX5 and bcredliner have similar experience to yours?"

I change oil at 60% SII (about 8k miles), the oil level drops about 1/8" to 3/16" (Mobil-1 0w-40).

I believe you are correct sorry I was confusing myself lol, I was going from this old post in a thread, see below

"Xenon/Adaptive Bi-Xenon (2000-2003 3.0i/4.4i xenon; 2004-2006 3.0i adaptive bi-xenon; 2004 4.4i adaptive bi-xenon; 2005-2006 4.4i standard; 2002-2006 4.6is/4.8is standard xenon/adaptive bi-xenon, respectively)"

So mine would be the Adaptive Bi-Xenon and everything is stock I haven't modified any bulbs yet on my X

Should I just upgrade halo bulb to a brighter whitesh color now? I've always hated the yellow tint on the stock

I had the same consumption in the 2.5 (1) and 3.0 (2) e46's. In fact I just did an oil change in the wife's 3.0 Mtech X3, 2006 last of the m54, and it was spot on after 7000 miles. Hadn't lost anything measurable on the dipstick.:dunno:

I am preparing myself to do the CCV system on hers preventatively and so your situation piqued my curiosity.

Go for it if one of them is out, put your parking lights on and see if the angel eye is out to confirm however

yeah I did, I have it set on "automatic" anyways so I checked this morning and looks like my passenger bulb for Halo is out, how easy is it replace this? And if I order them do I have to make sure they're error free so no codes show up after installation? Sorry I am new to this and a complete noob :/

was leaning on going towards these

http://www.amazon.com/Bimmian-LHUX5A...it+++LHUX5AW2Y

You guys are making me feel bad now. I never see drips and I never see smoke - I must have really good catalytic converters. Maybe time for a compression check.

2002 X5 3.0 290,000 miles
2004 325i 123,000 miles

Replaced the 25watt 7000k led angel bulb with new 80watt 7000k led angel aye bulb and it does look WAY BETTER. Although on this picture it's looks way brighter then what they look in person Im happy with the $60.00 Ebay upgrade. The 5watt didn't really do much just changed the color from yellow to white but the Amber turn signal when it's on its just too bright and makes angel eye look yellowish even with the new led. I cancelled the corner Amber lights and looks soooooo much better. I still have to figure out how to make the turn signal turn on with out re coding it or something expensive I already have a good cheap idea I'll try it soon to see if it works

That the led I bought first and didn't reallg like it, here is the new one and end result

80watt 7000k led angel eyes bulb from ebay. Looks way better and they were cheap easy to replace

Looks amazing lowered with the running boards

ok you've convinced me plus way cheaper and effective option than the halo kit I posted above

how easy was it to install?

For the price it's a good option but it won't look anything like the new X5 that look amazing even in the daylight. These look good as night but aren't that visible during the day. You would have to go full throttle and open the head headlights to replace the full ring with LCI angel eye rings or led ring or CCFL. All those look amazing during the day and night but require a lot of work. I did it on my 2003 and it was a nightmare to bake open the headlight. I did it on a 2001 and it was super easy to bake open the head lights. Thanks and good luck

makes sense, I'm just looking for a good option to get rid of the yellowish factory color at night, during the day I'm not picky, think I'm going to order these now

http://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Mark...ct_top?ie=UTF8

Replaced the 4.8is' air suspension pump. Actually not half bad, everything thing went smoothly. The push fittings were pretty nifty. Thankfully a friend of mine had the special BMW tool to remove the power wire pins.

Hopefully this cures the dreaded code 74 once and for all!

Surprisingly Autohausaz retails the WABCO pumps under arrnot :)

Not sure what I'll do with the old pump though :p:, i mean it technically still works, but since the seals were done once already, I doubt i should touch em again. (Likely overworked due to a now replaced strut)

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/a...psdxxtu0gy.jpg

SES light came on, scanned the X, came up with secondary air code bank 1 and bank 2, began with the simple things, checked vacuum line to secondary air valve, vacuum hose cracked. replaced hose all is good.

Fixed my audio system last night. I had a Dynavin unit fail on me two weeks ago. Jeff was awesome addressing the whole thing and got me a new unit out pronto. I installed it and it worked for a few days before my amp seemed to give way. Last night, before spending $350 on an amplifier, I decided to pull the dynavin and HVAC unit out, triple check all the wiring, and arrange it better in the dashboard. THANKFUL that resolved my issue (bangs head against desk).

^Glad to hear Olek I thought it was extremely odd that your amp would just go bust.

Have there been any recent software updates to the Dynavin that changed anything?

Nope its just the most recent one that everyone has. This one came preloaded with new software which was nice though.

I thought it was odd too. Anyone who knows me knows how tidy I keep my cars (even this one which I no longer drive because my girlfriend took it over) and how I upkeep gaskets and seals. When I kept hearing "moisture in the trunk" I said no way so I took it apart and the trunk was BONE dry. I dismantled the amp to check for dust or moisture and even that was spotless. I'm glad I didn't give in and just spend more money. :dunno:

Getting it prepped for a roadtrip to Tampa and back in December. Can't wait.

anyone selling their Dynavin while we're on the topic :)

Gear replacement: Gear damage was minimal and the job was not very hard. The C-clip gave me the most trouble.

:thumbup:

My 06 X5 4.8is is up for grabs guys 18k is what im hoping to get 77k miles in CHICAGO runs great has rare red interior GPS and pano roof

1. Replaced R rear tension strut and sway bar link; upper control arm tomorrow.
2. Ordered 4 rear subframe bushings; Lemforder.
3. Ordered Osram Nightbreakers from Powerbulbs; 1pr D2S, 1pr HB3
4. R&R front splashguard to clean; washed X5.

After recently completing a full "Service II" and replacing a CV boot, I've been pottering about fixing other minor issues: -

• Replaced a missing "3.0d" fender badge
• Replace a couple of floor mat anchors
• Replaced some missing wheel lock nut covers
• Replaced a missing cabin microfilter cover catch
• Vacuumed out cabin microfilter cavity (it was full of leaf litter)
• Vacuumed out spare wheel well (it was full of sand and gravel!)
• Replaced rear trunk space vent cover fabric with cut filter foam (the fabric had detached)
• Fixed mirror folding issue - microswitch arm on drivers-side had detached.

I still need to: -

• Tighten drivers-side mirror mount bolts (need to remove door lining)
• Re-attach drivers-side inner driver door handle LED (when door lining is off)
• Check harmonic balancer state
• Get my INPA etc. stuff running
• Stop reading about things that can go wrong in these forums!!! :rofl:

Always something to do! :confused:

finished install on my 3.0i stainless headers today.
don't have them connected up to the rest of the exhaust because
the headers are not even an inch off from factory.

i drove it around the block and it is ridiculously loud! haha rumbles everything on the block..
tomorrow i will take it to the exhaust shop and have them weld it up to the stock, unless you talk me into putting new pipes and flow masters.

just removing the stock exhaust manifold has removed a lot of weight alone, restriction on top of that it should be little better.

https://youtu.be/Snp4qaZ2mtg

Video of my headers. Not connected to any exhaust. Sorry for the short video but more to come as well as future mods.

Haha that is so loud. How did the install go?

Install was not that bad. Kinda went my own route as others didn't really help pretty. I looked at acouple e46 forums. I started late one day, finished it the next morning.
Small area to work with. I have more videos and pictures. I'll post tomarow.

Great mod for little cost. Now just got to get the headers matched up to a nice exhaust.

Nice! Have you installed your Shark yet? Interested on impressions of that for sure

Productive weekend with the X

1. Oil change and Oil filter replaced
2. New Air Filter
3. Installed HALO LED's
4. Installed new shifter knob
4. Dipped rims matte black
5. Washed car :)

will post pics tomorrow, where do you guys upload yours btw, sorry still new to the site?

1. Replaced R rear upper control arm.
2. Replaced both rear shocks and shock mounts.
3. Replaced giant lock nuts on rear wheel carrier/control arm bolt and torqued to 184ftlbs (the giant bolt that goes through the integral link). Forgot to order new ones when I replaced the rear ball joints.

I'd like to meet the nimrod BMW engineer who came up with the idea to BOLT the plastic bracket that secures the brake line/ABS/brake sensor. Bracket itself is fine, if not a bit fiddly, but the bolt head is held captive in plastic and just spins. Tossed the bolt after I got it out and used a couple of zipties to secure the bracket to the arm.

Not yet, I'm waitingoing for delivery. Hopefully today if not sometime this week. Nd i was trying to wait for my exhaust to be done and get a high flow intake filter

Yesterday I did an oil change using Rotella T6. Then washed her afterwards before heading back to SLC from Denver.

Replaced 1 of 2 windshield pump (part #4)+ strainer (part #3)
(left side - when facing the reservoir )

Hard to gauge if the other one will seized soon, along with the head lamp washer pump. I will deal with it one leak at a time ;)

Got same parts today from amazon. I intend to do the same way.

Got my headers welded up to my exhaust. Way quieter!
First great mod. Spent alittle over 200, about 100 for eBay headers and they were made great! About 20$ on 90°o2 bung
And 100 to weld it all up to my exhaust.
No check engine light.
Car feels lighter and acceleration feels alot more power.
I'm glad I did this, for now at least till smog rolls around next year haha :cool:

Maybe I should do this. Do you have any pictures of where they mated it up? Did you get E46 325/330i headers?

On a different note, I put on my roof rack today. The season is coming :wow:

Yes those are what I got. It was less than an inch off. Worst part I'd say is it was resting on middle of sway bar.I got it alittle off. But if you bend before install should be better.

And yes you reminded me. I gotta throw my rack on!

new lights, new shift knob, dipped rims on Sunday :)

sorry for poor quality pics

this weekend I'm going to clean my headlights (what's the best method that has worked for you guys?)


Attachment 67916

Attachment 67917

Attachment 67918

I used the 3M kit

Start transferring the aero kit over to the iS

That's what I used before and was pleased, I believe Autozone carries it

Thought I had to replaced the wheel bearing, but it was a lower control arm ball joint that was the problem.

Brake fluid flush. Nothing fancy. 4 ramps, jeeper creeper, motive bleeder, honey jug modified to be a catch can, and 2L of fluid. Bled 2 times, as the color was still quite orange first go around. Surprised at how dirty the fluid is 3 years later. Doesn't seem to have changed brake feel.

Decided to clean the barrels on my rims. And holy shit, I let it go too far I think. I got them down to mostly silver looking. Quite a few bastard spots, like behind spokes, where the old wheel weights were, and some really caked on shit. Killed a bottle of Sonax Full Effect going after each wheel 4 times. Ordered a 5L jug from my friend.

I have a question, how the hell do I get the sticky shit off from the old wheel weights? Is there something that will eat it up and not damage the rim.

Also, I have a wheel brush, got it from detailer domain, its blue and has sorta soft bristles. Either my rims are soo gunked up, or that brush is too soft for those areas, is there anything stiffer you guys have used to get at those spots?

And finally, what do you use to get behind the spokes, right now, those areas, on almost all of my rims are black?

You may need Sonax Wheel Cleaner Plus. Its 25% stronger than FE

-For the old wheel weights, 3M adhesive remover would work and its available locally, Detailers Domain sells Tarminator which also works great.

For behind the spokes I use the angled Wheel Woolie Brush that Phil sells, works great.

Found a crack in the upper coolant hose while doing the belts and pulleys. Order both.

To clean the wheels I started with Dawn dish soap, then I went to Crud Cutter to get the tougher stuff and then to Eagle Never dull to get the tar off. The adhesive was still there. I used lacquer thinner to soften it enough to scape it off with my fingernail.

I was hoping you would reply. Ty bro. Ordering some new gear from Phil now. do we get a discount from him? It's been years since I bought anything.

What to use to remove wheel weight adhesive
 

Get a bottle of lighter fluid from your local drug store:
http://pics.drugstore.com/prodimg/418227/450.jpg
Let it soak into the old adhesive for a few minutes and then scrap off with old credit card or similar plastic scrapping tool. This is what I used on some style 148 wheels that I picked up to put some all-terrain/winter tires on.

I love Easy Off oven cleaner for wheels.

to get the glue off use Goof off

Yeah definitely a 10% BMW code should still be active for sure, email him if its not working he will get you a code for sure.

Usually his free shipping threshold is $120 too I believe

Will try this tonight thanks.

Updated my MK4 nav to V32 and activated perspective map view after replacing the damaged LCD. Decided to go with an unmodded version of the firmware and was looking forward for a colored splash with the round BMW logo. But had to learn, that the splash remains unchanged :-(. Spill the boring white one.

Just purchased a Surco safari roof rack at 4 wheel online. Will be using it for the luggage during long trips. I'm planning to mount some aux lights on it also.

Heat works wonders for goo removal. Depending if there is enamel or bare metal use heat gun or lighter. Goo Gone or Goof Off work wonders on adhesive remnants


Sent from my awrPhone using Tapatalk

just bought TurtleWax headlight restoration kit at Target for 10 bucks, going to put it to good use tonight and get those puppies clear and shiny

also going to return 2 cans of gunmetal plastidip, for 1 matte black and 1 smoked can

going to see how smoking oem sidemarkers looks with the dip

^If you want them to be functional I wouldn't spray them with plasti dip lol

Yeah don't use plastidip on your side makers if you want them to work. VHT night shade is a common translucent spray paint used for smoking lights.

Hmm, I just bought a k&n filter for intake. But when I went to replace I realized there is a k&n already....
So the new one looks alot better and old should have been cleaned awhile ago...
Should I return new one and just clean the old one?
Or just use the new one and clean the other for next time I decide to change it?

My OCD says keep the new one. Smart people however would say clean the old one and save some money.

Swapped in heated seats from an '03 4.6is. Super simple and everything was plug and play for me.

Haha thank you! My OCD must have agreed with yours (:
The old was from previous owner, who knows how many miles it's been there. But bone dry.
The new one was all nice colored and oiled ready to go.
I kept the new one.

Did my annual oil change with an OE filter and Rotella T6, I drove 6k miles on this oil. Since the CCV change in June of 2014, this was the first interval with all new CCV parts. I ended up draining about 7 quarts out and I put in 8 at each change. So about 1/2 quart consumption every 3k miles which is not bad, will see how it does by next OCI.

Previous to the CCV swap I was consuming at least double that amount.

Also swapped in a new PS reservoir just for the fresh filter and to get some new fluid in the PS system, the hoses looked great, just conditioned them with some protectant and snipped a 1/4" off the ends and used new stainless steel clamps from Home Depot (you need 1 #6 and 1 #10) to secure it, much better than the Oetiker clamps on reassembly.

Fuel filter and the window regulator clips are next on both sides and I should be good to go till after winter.

Is this what I need to change if I'm starting to hear crackling sounds when lowering my windows? The driver's side is the only one doing it, so I've quit using it for the time being...

My tail lights went from orange to white today.

Before:
Attachment 67978

After:
Attachment 67979
I know, I know, dirty...

I scored a cheap second hand sets with one pair of led lights and one pair oem with white turn indicator. Tried to put on the LED ones first, but the reverse light power disturbs my reversing cam (picture flickering and causing my head unit to go haywire). I went with the OEM ones for now.

So I need to research the LED light issue. Might need to find another power source for the reverse camera.
Anyone got a tip regarding this?

Sometimes. Other times it's the regulator's plastic piece failing. Use some zip ties or wire to fix before it fails completely. :thumbup:

i had to re-glue my drivers side mirror again. did it about a month ago but apparently it didn't hold too well. did the passengers about a week ago. pain in the butt

Use silicon gasket maker next time (Permatech)... it will never come off. Like... ever.

You are talking about the glass right? Not the actual housing.

I think it's more like the housing, I'm not sure exactly.

Thanks... I'll take a gander at it when I open it up to change the DS handle carrier. Replace the PS just before last winter, now the other side is getting spongy, and I just know it'd stick and break during the winter...

used turtlewax headlight restoration kit from Target for 10 bucks this weekend, can confirm it did great wonders for my headlights and project only took a little over an hour to complete

Replaced the alternator, belts, and all tensioners/pulleys on Friday.
Hopefully this thing gives me a break through the holidays.

I know what you mean on that lol

remember we are enthusiasts who love to take care of our E53's :rofl:

I've tossed around selling it and getting something else as I don't even drive it anymore (my girlfriend took it over along with the payment thankfully) but she likes it a lot and I still love it. I take care of everything I own this one in particular is just sticking it to me as of late :rofl:

I clean and re-oil K&N filters using the K&N kit and have for over a decade. I do so several times before purchasing a new one. Read the instructions carefully. Be careful of the re-oiling process. If you use to much oil it can suck it into the MAF.

yeah, it's a never ending process that's for sure

mine has a few minor dents and scratches I want to take care of eventually but finding some new rims and spacers is my next move

lol my bank account doesn't like this :nanana:

Ok, so I tried everything to get the stupid wheel weight glue bullshit off my rims.

Heat, does not work. Heat gun to area, paint and rim hot as hell. I manage to only scratch that sticky shit with my plastic scraper. Fail.

Lighter fluid, Fail. Like piss me off fail. I even soaked paper towels in it and placed over the sticky bs.

Sonax, FAIL.

Paint thinner, FAIL.

I almost gave up on this, and then as I was starring at my chemical shelf, brake cleaner was staring back at me. PASS. Holy shit this was a clear winner. Rag, a little brake clean, gently rub, and boom shit comes off as a film. I think it must have been designed to be removed with brake clean. The difference in removal was epic.

Then I decided to clean more of the baked on brake dust and grime from behind the spokes, I was about to say screw it, none of my old stiff plastic brushes were cutting it. I was hesitant about trying my soft brass brush, I should have used it right away. That, plus sonax full effect, really cut through those bastard spots. I still have little dots of nasty shit, but I will hit that later when I remove the rims, or hopefully the subsequent washes will break it down.

Happy the rims are starting to look normal.

Remove the OE tow hitch from the donor 4.4i for sale.
It seems like the OE airbags on my iS is leaking now.

Oil change [back to MobilOne 0w40 from Shell Rotella T-6], filter, reset, and added 500ml of MOS lubricant. I'm looking to see whether this combo improves the mileage a bit, which dropped, on average per tank, to around 19.5 mpg [on the summer tires] on a couple of changes using the T-6. It may be tires rather than the oil, we'll see.

I also lubed the rear wiper hinge/spring [sticking, so poor coverage of window] did some minor tidying up - cleaned and conditioned front seats' leather, swept out the crumbs, etc. More cosmetics to do, but short on time ...... I'm afraid the front suspension ball joints and thrust arm bushings are due, with a front brake job approaching, too. Unfortunately, I've been putting way to many miles on this vehicle in 2+ yrs ownership.

I still have my fronts if you want them. They are original removed at 69k.

Sure, you'll encounter those suspension wear issues, but the engine loves those miles - keeps the CCV running clean!

2002 X5 3.0 290,600 miles
2004 325i 123,000 miles

BEYERN 20" staggered MESH wheels. Oil change, water pump, thermostat, belts and tentioner.

I just had a fair amount of service done at my indy shop:

Oil change
Replaced idler pulley and belt tensioner (they were squeaking)
New passenger side tail light assembly (kept getting a "check brake lights" message - turns out the contacts had gotten fried)
Transmission software update to resolve the harsh 1st/2nd shift
Re-flush the brake fluid to get rid of some sponginess

ETA: Oh yeah - and I installed a cargo cover which I just bought from another member.

Dang I have been trying to sell my tail lights forever. You should have checked the classifieds!

Just added a little less than a quart of oil to the 4.8 today after 4000 miles. Stupid leaking valve stem seals... lol. Oh well, I can tolerate a quart and a half over my ~6000 mile intervals.

Actually, I saw your ad and you were my backup plan if the warranty didn't cover the swap. But they came through and covered that, the idler pulley, and tensioner.

thinking about pulling the trigger on Style 87 Wheel Chrome 20's

thoughts on how it would look on a 04 black 3.0?

have heard really good things about these rims for the x5's

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...el-thread.html

Thanks alot! I ended up keeping the new and old. I will re oil and refresh my old one and keep it if my car last another 50,000 miles (: or happens to need a new filter. But ya I cleaned my maf sensor when I put new filter in.

Style 87's are some of the best looking wheels on X5's... can't go wrong with them. :thumbup:

unfortunately they are chrome which I'm not a big fan of but could always dip them or powder coat, thanks dude I think I'm gonna go with these!!! :iagree:

If they are OE wheels I would definitely go for it - make sure your local powdercoater is able to take care of the chrome finish underneath and has experience stripping chrome

I already checked and they are, powder coat will be $50 per rim :thumbup:

^Wow that is DIRT cheap

Damn that is crazy cheap. Make sure to thoroughly check out the shop.

pulled the trigger and bought them with brand new tires as well on them
gonna powder coat them and throw them on in the spring

how did you guys decide your color for coating? I was thinking just doing gloss black to match my X

I was going to powder coat sometime soon and also thought of gloss black, if you do it I'll be interested.

refer to this thread

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...rims-help.html

I'm either going to do grey or black gloss, I love this grey one of the members on here did below

http://www.xoutpost.com/attachments/...r-poll-x53.jpg

If your car is black do gunmetal. The black wheels get lost if everything is black IMO

thanks plus I want to match my grey trim around the car so that color would be perfect you think?

Yes, gunmetal would be great. Your powdercoater should be able to show you samples in his shop of different colors as well. Bcredliner has gunmetal wheels on his 4.6 they look awesome

My goal was to match the trim also.

Jeez, I'll be jealous haha. Will look really nice

Grey trim? Do show and tell.

^Wondering about this also -

Against black the textured trim appears grey. I sampled several different greys as they often have a cast to them like green, brown, blue etc. when against black. The grey needed to match the trim needs to be neutral-a black grey.

Brake light came on. Quick visual inspection and I could tell right away it was my rear pads. Got a pair of akebono euro ceramics for $51 from advance auto (with a coupon) and install was a breeze!

^ you replaced the wear pad sensor too?(I think I just asked a stupid question, of coarse you did or the brake light would still be on).

Not necessarily

Unless I'm wrong but the trim around the bottom of the car is grey on my black model

http://images.dealerrevs.com/gallery...hp?id=60892749

just one I found online ^

Replacing the front air struts, coolant hoses and finish the aero kit swap over.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...pszcre78ed.jpg


http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...psfpise5oi.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...pspqinn3xd.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...pseuiewdf8.jpg

Still the iS front bumper until I get new one.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps5ygwby6k.jpg

:wow:
:drool:

Today. My Passenger side Electric window got stuck in the fully down position and will not go back up. Sigh. Anyways.. since its stuck in fully down position and wont go back up.. apparently the window is suppose to be at a certain up position(half way up or so) so I can reach a certain bolt that holds the window.

Anyone got any ideas to get it back up? Cheers.

:rofl: All the plastic trims are supposed to be black. The plastics turn grey as they age, I guessed. But if "treat" them properly, it's supposed to remain black. You're the first that I've heard of to refer to them as grey.

lol they were clearly dark grey when we got it brand new srs

maybe I'm color blind? :dunno:

I had to cut mine when my motor died

Im pretty sure my motor hasn't died. When I press the buttom, the interior light dims but also you have hear the Motor move. The glass also moves about 1cm up and down only and wont go up any further. That's not a sign of the motor dead is it?

Cheers.

it could be getting weak or your window is jammed, when pushing the button to go up ,I would try and pull up on the window at the same time

Thanks ill give it a go.

Could b dying or jammed like Puddingboo said. Mine got real slow before the motor completely died.

Today, I replaced the thermostat. I was going to also replace the water pump but after a hands-on inspection, I found nothing wrong with it. The pump's manufacture date was 5-05. Amazing, after 10 years and 108000+ miles, the pump was still in excellent shape. No grinding noise what-so-ever when I spun it. I had read stories on here about pumps going bad well before 100000 miles, must be my luck, I guess. Anyways, coolant temperature is dead center on my dash, happy as hell.

Yes sir

Replaced rear subframe bushings yesterday. Finally, no more squeaks! Old bushings completely separated.

Was an easy job with the right tool wasn't it? She feels tighter from the rear end now as well, I definitely noticed a difference on mine, and mine all separated when I replaced them at 75k last year

Yes, piece of cake with the right extractor tool. And noticeable improvement. This was the last job before it goes in for a 4 wheel alignment.

6 week project to refresh all of the wearable suspension and steering components. At 150k miles, the subframe bushes were loooong overdue.

updated project list

1. replace rear air springs
2. fix MID radio unit (shipping out to get pixels fixed)
3. dent repair and paint chips on hood

SWEET!!!!

Traded in the CEO's 2004 E46 to get a new playmate for my E53!

She's now very happy with her 2014 F36 in Mineral Gray, Premium, Sport Line, NAV & Harman Kardon Sound. :D Which means I did good. :bow:

2002 X5 3.0 289,700 miles
2014 428i 12,725 miles (Just an infant)

^Friggin HAWT for the CEO!

What can I say RB? She's a BMW girl. :thumbup:

Great choice!

Not today but we did some Saturday midnight madness with member 4.8isX5 and TopEndCarClub getting the proper stance and some other misc. coding.

Thanks my friends.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...psk3wi28ug.jpg

What springs do you have on the rear?

Stock coil springs for a 3.0i

WOW that looks phenomenal.

Need more pics of your vehicle... what's going on with the body colored bumpers? Looks great, well, from the little we can see it does. Post some more please, I have been debating doing something like this since we bought the first e53.

On another note... I fixed my reverse mirror dipping function today. Big thanks to the DIY poster for that a handful of years ago. Also had a go at repairing the micro switch for the folding elephant ears. The one on the passenger side had let go, collapsed the spring, and then was crushed. I removed the spring, bent it back into shape, and then reinstalled it. Everything is working as it should... but might need a new microswitch in the future.

Other than that... everything is running great. *fingers crossed* :thumbup:

Removed the transfer case today to replace the front driveshaft and chain. Ended up breaking three exhaust studs in the process and finding a nail in my tire (air leaks when you poke it). Luckily I have new exhaust hardware and a spare style 69 with the same make/model tire on it.

http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/v...psc3vp5mbj.jpg

http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps0bmwse7f.jpg

http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/v...pswqjpfn3y.jpg

Replaced SCA
Inspected all hatch wires and fuses.
Checked relay box under bonnet (can hear relay clicking when hatch button pushed in dash)

Hatch still not opening via remote, button on dash or grip button above number plate. :banghead:

Josh any reason you pulled the case and shaft? Were you experiencing issues or just doing it preventatively? I'm assuming you are going with a longer driveshaft stub

I was starting to get the chain popping sound upon hard take off. I am replacing the driveshaft with a longer one. Turns out my splines were wearing so I'm glad I did order a new longer ds preventively

going to have to replace my rear left air spring so might as well order a pair, what brand do you recommend?

Pull the relay in the trunk. Wait a few min. Put relay back in. Had same issue. Turned out to be stuck relay.

Arnott all the way.
https://www.arnottindustries.com/part_BMW_yid21.html

Thanks buddy!

open to all suggestions, going to my mechanic Saturday morning to place my order

How many miles are on that shaft Josh?

I replaced mine at 136,000 miles. Dealer did the work so he used an OEM driveshaft, combined with a used transfer case that had 76,000 miles on it, but no wear on the coupling splines. I drilled it into the tech to make sure he greased the daylights out of that coupling before putting it back on the front driveshaft and have put 163,000 miles on it since the repair. The service manager has told me he's never had a repaired one come back in, but I do put a ton of miles on the vehicle and wonder if I'm close to a possible replacement again.

2002 X5 3.0 290,900 miles
2014 428i 12,700 miles
2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles

^I would be sure to use the longer driveshaft stub like Josh is - its known that the OEM driveshaft is decently short and only engages 1" of the splines on the pre-facelift - and many times that is what would strip out over time/miles/wear

Hi. Thanks for the messages.
I had the stock 4.8is trim painted to match the TiAg paint. I've had it done twice. After the first painting someone backed into my front bumper in a parking lot so when I had that fixed we filled the license plate holes and had the bumper, flares, etc. sanded, primed and painted again.

In the wheel wells I have a clear film over the painted parts to keep rocks/debris from messing up the paint.

I think removing the license plate and using tow hook plate holder help to clean up the lines. Make sure you use a good body shop that will take its time with the prep work.

The photos below are before the stance was lowered and have a filter applied to the photos.


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...psobewygz4.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...psnsfea4cm.jpg

170k. The stock length shaft is laughably short. I'd replace it with a longer one for sure. I found a aftermarket shaft that had two options, it was OE+half an inch and then OE+1inch. I went with the +half an inch because supposedly it retains the ability to remove and install without the need to unbolt the tcase. Seeing the wear I wish I had gone with the +1inch but I am sure with the little extra coupled with brand new splines it'll be just fine.

If it had stripped, I'd have gone with the +half an inch and new output splines.

received Matte Black Kidney Grill from ECS Tuning, going to put it on in Spring and keep using my stock plasti dipped one for now

Change my front outer PDC sensor. No more annoying beeping sounds when in reverse...

cleaned it :). then topped my washer bottle up , and broke then lost my washer cap , :(
still got a nice clean car though

the washer bottle cap just clips on and it is probably down by the stiffner plate thats where I found mine.

Today I Replace the Transmission filter and change the Transmission fluid with ZF,the differentials a and the transfer-case.
No more hard shift....SO FARR...

puddin, i tried to get it out, it fell further down into the depths, ill buy a new one :)

I think there only 5 bucks anyways. if you ever have to take the reinforcement plate off someday you will more than likely find it there.

Hamann Bumper and painted trim
 

Installed a New Hamann bumper, and painted trim to match.

Love the color, bumper looks great!

put the snow tires on today.

Does that come with those fog lights?

Yup Hamann fogs cam with the bumper

Replaced a few button caps on the HVAC unit after the wife sucked a couple up into our vacuum cleaner... $115 mistake... :(

I replaced some buttons on my E53 today, too. It was missing three of them when I bought it. I got lucky enough to win this auction on eBay for $1.25, though: BMW E39 5' s AC A C Automatic Air Conditioning Climate Control Heater Unit Klima | eBay.

Got everything I needed, plus a nice stockpile of replacements in case I need them, or in case I want to be one of those assholes who sells individual buttons on eBay for $20 each (I don't). :D