That looks weird. I went on ECS's site and looked at the compressor and reservoirs to see what that might be. Best case is to check all the lines from compressor to reservoirs and out. Seeing as you hear the "pssst" it should be easy to find the leak.

If the compressor isn't even activating, check the relay and fuses

Yeah it was one single psst and then nothing which was strange. Tried to listen in for anything further but nothing made a sound. Hoping it's the relay or rods and not the whole compressor unit. Wish I had a GT1 at home to pull codes - driving this thing slammed is woeful!

Changed the VC gasket. Will see if this works.
Forgot to hook up the #6 coil pack back up.
They really don't run well on 5 cylinders.:(

Taking mine in to the indy tuesday for that. He's charging me $240 and i bring my parts. He said that he will also check the valve cover itself as he's seen that part get warped over time. Its a $350 part. I am hoping that not the issue. He said he's seen that part warp on the 3.0 when they get high in the miles 160+. He only works on german cars.

No more codes, but temps are warmer (around 0C). On the leak front, the timing chain cover gasket is good now, but there is another oil leak lower. Looks to be the oil cooler takeoff. I pulled lower covers off and there was enough oil on the "drip tray" to warrant another trip to the indy. He's about 1h away, but he has a decent office and wifi so I can work while he fixes the X5. Like a match made in heaven.

Anyone in the GTA, I would highly recommend this shop. Columbus Auto. Guy's name is Ivo. He has been awesome, fair and hasn't screwed up any of my X5 and 535 work.

I hate electrical problems!!!!. It has taken me many hours over the last week to find two problems in the nitrous bottle heater circuit. I ended up stringing a new wire from the console switch to the blanket and replacing the relay. While I was at it I upgraded the pressure gauge so I had to run new wires from the console to the bottle for that as well. Only salvation was I only had to remove all the stuff to run the wires once. What a pain in the a%s. Glad that's over.

I'm trying hard to feel sorry for you with nitrous problems. Getting stuck on the nitrous part. "Sorry" keeps changing to "jealous" and I'm stuck :).

The downside of mods is the more one does the more time and $$$ spent keeping what has been done to keep on doing. And there's always the concern something is going to break every time the button is pushed. It sounds great but----

So, the next oil leak is dealt with. It was the alternator bracket and associated o-rings. Engine degreased and we'll see what leak crops up next. From what I can see, that was it. Fingers crossed.

As for the misfires, we suspected intermediate levers, but I did check mine a ways back and they weren't part of the recall campaign. Went online with the shop's auto logic tool and found they were set to 0.1mm. Range is typically 0.3mm (min. and spec) up to 0.8mm (software adjust to compensate for crappy ones and/or wear). We set to 0.3mm and I'll keep an eye on the cold starts and see how it goes. You can increment by 0.1mm up to 0.8mm. At the upper range, it alerts that throttle response and fuel consumption would be adversely affected. Both sound so appealing.......

Cheers.

New CV boots and lower ball joints are currently being installed by mechanic.
I was going to do it myself, but didn't have time so took it to local mechanic.
He told me he will do it for $280 with me supplying the parts.
Heck, for $280 I've let him to do the work. After this my front suspension work is done with replacing control arms, tension struts, sway bar endlinks. Will move onto rear soon.