Xoutpost.com - What have you done to your E70 today?

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- - What have you done to your E70 today? (https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e70-forum/92812-what-have-you-done-your-e70-today.html)

I've been working my way through a near full suspension refresh.

Front:
Both lower control arms
All new strut/spring hardware
Tie rods
Sway bar links

Rear:
Control arms
Integral link
Shocks
Sway bar links and bushing
Bushings in swing arm

Kicked off by lots of rattling/knocking which I did find one front spring broken and the other side, while not broken, the strut mount was really cocked, so assuming those are the source. I'm ready to drop front down to torque at ride height, and then start on rear. I'll post pictures later and some things I learned.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bdc101 (Post 1242725)

I did the transmission fluid and pan -- I think it was original fluid (139k miles). Also did front diff and transfer case. Was able to get creative and didn't have to drop the cross member. I haven't driven it yet as I want to do the rear diff tomorrow. I also did the fuel filter while I was down there, but found that it had been done recently as the production date on the old one was 2019.

I think I haven't logged into XOutpost since this post. My transmission service went great and the car is driving wonderfully. I replaced the front end links which were clunking since we bought the car a year ago and have some rear end links to get on next. I also changed the oil this week.

The trim piece that goes around the iDrive selector is really bad looking, so I bought a new one but haven't put it on yet. The trim piece in front of it (the one that goes around the cupholder) is no longer available so I am thinking I will have to sand and repaint that. Any other options you guys have I would love to hear. It looks awful.

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Prep work for swapping the engine.

Won't know until the autopsy what exactly happened to the original motor but I'll be leaving the oil pressure gauge on more often especially if pushing the engine in the future!

Full throttle run up an on ramp to ≈ 85 then coast back to ≈ 75 when i get error "cruise control disabled".

Never have seen that error before so it took a few seconds to notice the tach = zero!

Started to pull over and slow down when i fortunately realized I was about a mile from the next exit and decided to see if I could coast. I made it down most of the off ramp.

Tried to start the car only got a click.

Considering options such as alt failure and no bat power put on my 5000w jump pack and try to start.

Smoke came off the wires!

Couldn't hand turn the crank with 250-300 ft·lb of torque so most likely some form of oil starvation possibly from a recent oil change that knocked free some gunk.

I will have a lot of decent parts off the old motor as spares I'm very interested in the autopsy results.

Interesting note is no copper in the oil the first thing i checked. (while waiting for the tow truck).

I have great towing coverage: 20 min. home and 40 to my mechanic. They didn't bat am eye and a couple months later i got a $50 gift card because i had to wait two hours for the initial tow.

–awr–

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New engine in, pile of hoses on the floor are all the old hoses that were replaced.

–awr–

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Got engine running yesterday. Two of the coils were completly rusted, engine must have gotten rained on and 5/6 are covered with foam kept the water from evaporating.

Swapped in all new coils and plugs.

DME still had error from broken Valvetronic motor but foxwell nt710 knows how to run the run-in function. It failed yesterday because of the 5/6 coil causing misfires but today it worked.

Have a couple air leaks to track down: MAF implausible error and if i give heavy throttle there's a boost leak somewhere. Those will be very easy to solve vs. Valvetronic learn.

–awr–

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Mine is at the dealer getting ALL new suspension, liftgate spindles, transmission service, fuel filter, EGR solenoid, brake fluid service, parking brake actuator and shoes, cabin and recirculation air filters, NOx sensors, and an oil and filter change. I got a 2025 X7 4.0 for a loaner.

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Charge pipe from intercooler popped off and of course hit into the PS pulley and carved a hole. Patched with JB Kwik.

All codes cleared. Have a shake at idle I'd like to squash. Other than that it's amazing to have my car back on the road!

–awr–

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Idle vibration was a combination of missing bracket holding the cat (original broke during removal) and a worn engine mount.

–awr–

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Got the X5 back on 7 October, ran great. The next morning 0500, dead on the side of the road. Dealer paid to have of towed to them (>$300] for evaluation. Blown DDE Fuse 2. Cleaned out under the cabin air filters (leaves, debris) and found nothing. Got under the vehicle and a NOx harness had come loose from a clip and wore against the front driveline, creating a short. Repaired free of charge and tow costs. 1000+ miles later and it's still running and riding great.

I replaced the kidney grills with a combination of an OE silver center and aftermarket molded matte black bezel.

Next will be motor, xfer case, trans mounts, new belt tensioner, idler, belt, harmonic dampener (or whatever it's called on the M57), and alternator overrun pulley.

Considering putting new tires on the original 19" Style 335 wheels. I'm using the 18" Style 210 "snow package" wheel now. With my required medical treatments, I think going back to running a dedicated snow tire - as good as my current but discontinued Michelin Premier LTX is in the snow - in the winter might be a good idea.

I'd like to install the HBA option. Seems like I only need the coding and can optionally add the stalk as the mirror already has wiring for the camera. I have RLS, auto dimming, compass, GDO, and security mirror.

Still want to get new headlight assemblies although mine are still good, they are many years old.

I have to do something about that damned soft touch crap and I'd like to cover the wood trim with something like Black Cubic, Titanium, a gunmetal or something. I'm also looking at an MMI+ box to add Car Play and Android Auto to the CIC. I want to upgrade but don't want to spend the money on NBT or EVO and want nothing to do with those cheapy Chinese head units.