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  #21  
Old 05-02-2015, 08:21 AM
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^^You can never have enough lubrication man!

And yes agreed with the soaps, most of the popular non-spotting, pH neutral soaps on the market are wonderful with suds (although that is not an indication of cleaning power as you know), and tons of lubricity, however, you truly need to have some sort of mechanical action lifting and taking that dirt on the surface away.

No way in hell you are getting road film off by soaking with a foam lance and hoping it will "break down" the film/grime, not with a pH neutral soap.

Only soap I've seen that is close to doing that without stripping an LSP each time is Auto Finesse Avalanche but it is not neutral, however its not strong enough to be fully foam, rinse, and dry. More of a "big dirt" breakdown product before the actual wash in the winter, so you are using less pressure when agitating the remaining grime with your wash media.

Heck if you have OC or other popular coatings on the market i've seen guys foam the cars with APC, give it a high pressure rinse and its basically 100% clean.

We could talk wash processes/techniques all day here (me, Tiag, and jsoto). James, any reason you are still using traditional waxes instead of a high quality polymer paint sealant? I know the term "wax" now also is used interchangeably with sealant, but was curious.
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  #22  
Old 05-02-2015, 12:18 PM
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I haven't looked into a sealant because I'm finishing up the Zymol Concours, that stuff is too costly to gather dust or toss in the trash.

I'm hoping the geo-graphic location (TX) helps with the touchless cleaning, mostly dust/pollen, and infrequent rain that bonds the foreign materials to the surface.

Rains every afternoon FL and touchless cleaning would never work.
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  #23  
Old 05-02-2015, 01:55 PM
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TiAG -

Nuba is just sticky. Period.
I have tons of Nuba that I've just vac. bag locked and keep in the wine fridge.
I can't recall ever using them ever for the last 6 years.

Granted, you won't get the slickness with a sealant that you get with Nuba so there are tradeoffs if you are touching your paint and expect sl1ck.

If you have not tried it yet, try some variant of a sealant. You will be amazed on the difference it makes IMO. I don't care for the looks, but there is noticable *hardness* I have noticed it has added to soft Paint.
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  #24  
Old 05-02-2015, 04:20 PM
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^^jsoto what sealants are you using? Yes if we are talking about concours nuba's there is some loss of depth.

However with silver and metallic colors I see no difference in depth from a mid grade nuba wax and a synthetic sealant. In the past 2 years or so the synthetic game has come a long way, firstly I will say without a doubt that the polymer sealant I use now has absolutely more slickness by feel than the Collinite wax I had been using for years prior.

With the sealant game now, I am seeing a ton more slickness, massive amounts of gloss, and longevity from 4-8 months depending on maintenance and the type of sealant you are using. As well, in the "dusty/pollen" states, with a sealant you are getting far less dust and pollen attraction to the paint than a 'Nuba.

Times definitely are changing, fairly soon I can see all "waxes" on the markets being sealants and perhaps the name wax is just kept for recognition purposes. The chemistry is just so advanced now, unless you rarely drive the car and its a garage queen, I'll always go for a sealant.

My .02
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  #25  
Old 05-02-2015, 04:41 PM
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Dailys - OptiCoat
Weekend - Finest

After every 3-5 washes, I do a WAUD with Reload, just as a quick topper to add some slickness, that I don't get with nuba.

Both products are ~thicker~ than your traditional sealant and the biggest game changer for me, was that soft paint - inevitable induced marring, unless you never touch the car at all (aka, truly touchless wash which I don't have a routine yet), they have made the topcoat harder to the point where I can say at least 65-75% reduction in marring, versus if I have not had it on...


BTW, I did a search for the GD turbo video, only to come across a recent video, and I all heard in a span of 7 minutes, was at least the words GD, GD Method and Juice at least 10X for all 3 of those words. I don't mind the sharing of whatever knowledge one wants to put out, but I hate marketing being shoved down down my throat without buying me a drink 1st ;-/
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  #26  
Old 05-03-2015, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsoto View Post
TiAG -

Nuba is just sticky. Period.
I have tons of Nuba that I've just vac. bag locked and keep in the wine fridge.
I can't recall ever using them ever for the last 6 years.

Granted, you won't get the slickness with a sealant that you get with Nuba so there are tradeoffs if you are touching your paint and expect sl1ck.

If you have not tried it yet, try some variant of a sealant. You will be amazed on the difference it makes IMO. I don't care for the looks, but there is noticable *hardness* I have noticed it has added to soft Paint.
Yeah, the Zymol can be sticky stuff.

I found the ONLY way to apply it, is to NEVER put more on the applicator
then the friction generated heat can melt in around 5 seconds. It's such a small amount that I can wax the ENTIRE X with just over a 1/2 ounce of product. Try using much more and you end up "chasing the glop".

Found that if the glopping starts, put down the applicator and use your hands to spread out over more surface area (the additional heat from hands will actually melt the carnuba, like chocolate). Crazy stuff to work with.

I've avoided the sealants because some actually need to be wet sanded to remove if it's done wrong.
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  #27  
Old 05-03-2015, 11:38 AM
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Hi Tiag -

What I meant when I meant sticky, was that outdoors, the heat will make it attract pollen, dust, debris. That just the nature of the beast u get with oil jaw dropping looks nuba. The cars do CLEAN better with sealants in general as stuff does not stick to it as much, water sheets off better, contaminates sheet off better, and at the end of the day, with sealants, you have less stuff ontop of it, whether it's before or after a wash...YMMV, as everyone has a different process/regimine, etc.
`
Re: sealants // coatings, wet sanding not required. A polish of the affected area would be required, but if you need to deal with that area for whatever the reason may be, it would probably need polishing anyhow.
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  #28  
Old 05-03-2015, 12:43 PM
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Yeah, I've found with waxes, it's a double edged sword. Those that stick well to the surface and last for months attract dust & pollen, those that release dust don't bond well to the clearcoat. The trick is finding ONE with good bond AND dust release.

Back in my black car DD days, I used to ground the car with jumped cables (to a lightning rod ground pole), just to release the static charge from the friction of rubbing. Without grounding, you could see the dust/pollen in the air being pulled onto the surface.

My hat's off to you guy who DD black vehicles, you have to clean/wax them frequently to keep them looking good.
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Last edited by TiAgX5; 05-03-2015 at 01:20 PM.
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  #29  
Old 05-03-2015, 10:09 PM
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My .02 fwiw.

With a foam cannon and appropriate soap you can not only minimize time spent washing, but significantly cut touching the paint surface.

I've used Opti-coat 2.0 on the Rover, and some Adams detail spray to boost the sparkle & slickness after a wash. If I recall the new Opticoat has a higher sheen than the 2.0 stuff I used, possibly even negating the need to boost the sheen afterwards. Nearly a year later and the coating is holding up remarkably well. Road junk seems to pop off with ease, even tar!

The X on the other hand is rocking the Sonax Polymer NetShield (recent application). While the the PNS has much better/richer gloss (it makes the black sapphire really pop), I'm not a huge fan of the way it goes on/feels.

In both cases washing consists of a foam cannon loaded with Hosty's "Powershine Plus" some "warm" 140F water and near zero effort. I don't even own a brush to put near either truck and the soap pulls all the fine road grime off....and yes, that means the Black Sapphire Metallic as well. Just foam it down, let dwell, refoam & wash...no need for a "pre-soak" as you can watch the soap pulling the dirt off.

I can appreciate the effort that goes into a two bucket wash and regular waxing intervals/topcoat maintenance.....just don't have the time for it these days!

Loved this btw:
Quote:
Originally Posted by TiAgX5 View Post

Back in my black car DD days, I used to ground the car with jumped cables (to a lightning rod ground pole), just to release the static charge from the friction of rubbing. Without grounding, you could see the dust/pollen in the air being pulled onto the surface.
...I could only imagine the puzzled look on the neighbors faces!
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  #30  
Old 05-04-2015, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X5SND View Post
........I can appreciate the effort that goes into a two bucket wash and regular waxing intervals/topcoat maintenance.....just don't have the time for it these days!

Loved this btw:


...I could only imagine the puzzled look on the neighbors faces!
I still get looks from neighbors, seems handwashing vehicles is a lost art.

Had to clean the X for Cars & Coffee (6am Sat morning), got home from a concert around 9:30 pm Friday. At 10 pm I proceeded to 2 bucket detail wash, (ALL visible areas, wheelwells/inside wheel hoops/calipers), hand dry, clean glass, spray detailer, dress tires. Took 3 hrs (finished up at 1 am).

Got around 3 hrs sleep before 5 am alarm wake up for C&C.
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