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#1
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Won't be any damage if one blows out as long as you don't drive too many miles before replacing the bag. Would want to pull the compressor fuse so pump doesn't keep running.
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Dallas |
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#2
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Ok, i am not going to drive it now, i will se what happens when i start the car again, but how do i find such a small leak in the system? Sitting for 2 months is quite a long time, if it had happened over night it would have been easier to find the leak. And as i wrote earlier, past summer when driven almost every day, i havent had a single problem with the air ride
Skickat från min iPhone med Tapatalk |
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#3
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One way is a soapy water solution. Air leaking will cause bubbles that are visible. I would start with air bags, then air lines. If you don't find the leak next stop is the compressor where seals can fail. Another way is to wait until the leak get worse so it is easier to find.
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Dallas |
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#4
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Quote:
I wait for the leak to get worse, think it will be easier. Skickat från min iPhone med Tapatalk |
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#5
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Started the car today. It sounds real smooth! But i have 2 setbacks, 1: check engine light is not lit, but i wanted to check if there was any codes stored. It throws code 22 inlet camshaft control, what does that mean? Timing of the vanos? Setback 2: there was a small dripping coolant leak around the waterpump, no problem i thought ill just tighten the bolts a bit further. One of those long bolts that goes thru the lower case snapped 😩😩 what should i do? I am not eager to strip everything down again. I need a big hug right now 😔
![]() Skickat från min iPhone med Tapatalk |
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#6
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Do you have INPA?
Read DME >> N62>>Read F6>>>Check values on Analog 3 |
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#7
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Quote:
No i dont have inpa, i only have the carsoft i910II, but it can read values asvell. But i have no clue in what is within range for the values. Skickat från min iPhone med Tapatalk |
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#8
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Since its bank 2 that gives error codes, does that mean i only have to strip that side down to retime? Do i have the timing plate a bit of? When i did the timing of the cams, i adjusted the cams so the camblocks would be flush with the head, then remove the blocks and tdc pin. Rotated the engine one turn, put on the camblocks and tdc pin, i adjusted the cam that was slightly of. I repeated these steps until the camblocks would slide on/off easy and sit flush to head. Hope you understand what i mean 😄
Skickat från min iPhone med Tapatalk |
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#9
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Havent updated in a while. I have stripped down the engine again, and going to re time it. Stay tuned 👍😄
Skickat från min iPhone med Tapatalk |
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#10
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Here is a video of the first start after chains and guides where changed, but throwing code and going for full re-time
Skickat från min iPhone med Tapatalk |
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