Clicking sound need help

Draztik · #1 09-27-2018, 07:54 PM

I recently had both rear and front CV Axles replaced due to age and milage they were bad. My mechanic also replaced lower control arms and bushing on front end.

Now when I left the shop everything was great until maybe a few miles in I start hearing a clicking sound. At first I thought Axle but they've been replaced. Took the car back and they did a road test and tightened everything up after a visual inspection as well. Took the car and no noises.... Until a few miles it came back.

Doesn't matter if turning or driving straight and it's not consistent. There's times where there is no sound at all for the whole day and then it comes back after a turn or small bump.

I've also replaced brake pads front and rear and tires are good. Any help would be appreciated this is driving my wife and I crazy.

Sound recording is at this link

2003
4.4i V8

Replaced:
All CV Axles
Both Front Lower Control Arms
Left Front Sway Bar Link
Thrust Arm Ball Joints/Bushings
Front and Rear Brake Pads

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andrewwynn · #2 09-27-2018, 08:03 PM

Make a recording of the sound.

If it sounds like somebody tapping Morse code it's the say bar links.

I have a feeling the stress put on them from CV change may expedite their demise. I had to replace wife's shortly after replacing her CV axles

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Draztik · #3 09-27-2018, 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

Make a recording of the sound.

If it sounds like somebody tapping Morse code it's the say bar links.

I have a feeling the stress put on them from CV change may expedite their demise. I had to replace wife's shortly after replacing her CV axles

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Thanks for the quick response, I uploaded a short recording I made while driving it straight.

Also thrust arm ball joints & sway bar link were replaced.

andrewwynn · #4 09-28-2018, 12:10 AM

Sounds sway bar related NOT links. My car made that exact sound when out of time constraints I didn't bolt the under engine stiffening plate back on. Realized my mistake quickly when I heard the metal slapping sound and figured out the four of the six bolts ALSO hold the actual sway bar. If those bolts aren't tight or the rubber bushing is worn or missing you'll get a slap sound like the MP3.

What speed were you going?

It could be something silly like a tool resting on the stiffen plate. Wifes X5 used to rattle something fierce it turned out to be rocks on the stiffening plate.

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Draztik · #5 09-28-2018, 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

Sounds sway bar related NOT links. My car made that exact sound when out of time constraints I didn't bolt the under engine stiffening plate back on. Realized my mistake quickly when I heard the metal slapping sound and figured out the four of the six bolts ALSO hold the actual sway bar. If those bolts aren't tight or the rubber bushing is worn or missing you'll get a slap sound like the MP3.

What speed were you going?

It could be something silly like a tool resting on the stiffen plate. Wifes X5 used to rattle something fierce it turned out to be rocks on the stiffening plate.

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That does make sense if 4 of them are holding the sway bar. Also since it was fine until I drove a little ways away from the mechanic and over speed bumps.

I work all weekend unfortunately so I'll take a look at this Monday. Thank you for the info, do you know who carries the bolts? They look pretty pricey for OEM.

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andrewwynn · #6 09-28-2018, 09:53 AM

You can use a decent grade of equivalent size bolt. I think that I have some 3/8" bolts holding mine now.

I also install mine upside down. It's a lot easier to remove/replace the plate with the nuts on the bottom.

Did you leave your plate off for observation, etc or do you think the bolts just aren't tight?

Also: your initial post said only one of the sway links was replaced.

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Draztik · #7 09-28-2018, 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

You can use a decent grade of equivalent size bolt. I think that I have some 3/8" bolts holding mine now.

I also install mine upside down. It's a lot easier to remove/replace the plate with the nuts on the bottom.

Did you leave your plate off for observation, etc or do you think the bolts just aren't tight?

Also: your initial post said only one of the sway links was replaced.

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Correct just 1 link was done. I didn't have the time to do all the Axles myself so I had everything done at a shop.

If these bolts are meant to be replaced when taken off, I'm starting to think the originals were reused and torqued to spec per shop manual. This would explain why the noise is not there until I put some driving on it and they get lose. Also why the sound comes and goes.

I'm hoping this resolves everything on Monday when I take a look. You have been a great help.

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oldskewel · #8 09-28-2018, 03:46 PM

From the MP3, it sounded like it was a rhythmic clicking rather than a random rattling. Was the clicking noise possibly synched with wheel rotation rate? If so, it might be a loose / interfering wheel weight.

And if you do substitue SAE bolts (not that I'm recommending that), the originals are M10-1.5 x55mm, class 10.9. 3/8" is about 9.5 mm, so yes, close to M10. The SAE equivalent of (metric) Class 10.9 would be Grade 8. Class 10.9 bolts + nuts will be marked "10.9". Grade 8 will be marked with 6 marks between each vertex and the center of the bolt head.

Draztik · #9 09-28-2018, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldskewel

From the MP3, it sounded like it was a rhythmic clicking rather than a random rattling. Was the clicking noise possibly synched with wheel rotation rate? If so, it might be a loose / interfering wheel weight.

And if you do substitue SAE bolts (not that I'm recommending that), the originals are M10-1.5 x55mm, class 10.9. 3/8" is about 9.5 mm, so yes, close to M10. The SAE equivalent of (metric) Class 10.9 would be Grade 8. Class 10.9 bolts + nuts will be marked "10.9". Grade 8 will be marked with 6 marks between each vertex and the center of the bolt head.

Yes it does go with the rotation of the wheel. Odd thing is it doesn't always make noise either.

Thank you for the bolt size

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andrewwynn · #10 09-28-2018, 07:06 PM

Take a video of your wheel hanging your arm out your window and verify if in fact the sound happens once per revolution of the wheel that will make a huge difference in solving the problem.

It is not uncommon for that dust cover to get bent in a way that it would contact the rotor and if the rotor has a lump of rust on it it might be hitting that once per revolution.

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