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#1
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Actually it was directly fore-aft.
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2011 E70 N55 (me) 2012 E70 N63 (wife) |
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#2
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Wishbone -- REIN
Well...here it is. I took out the wishbone control arm. The ball joint in it is of course very "loose" feeling--but I'm not sure how that would translate into a bad control arm. I cant feel any clicking, of course, in my hand when i'm articulating the ball joint with my fingers.
In comparison, the front tiny control arm was much stiffer articulating the joint on it. How else would I even be able to prove the wishbone is bad just because the joint feels really loose? Is that grounds for a bad joint? P.S. I looked up what I bought, and it is REIN brand. They were $55 for each side. Let's see if I can try with the 2 year warranty...
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2003 BMW X5 3.0i -- MT5, 3.64s final gears, H&R lowering springs, K-Mac bushing kit 2007 BMW X3 3.0Si -- MT6 |
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#3
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Quote:
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2001 X5 3.0i, 203k miles, AT, owned since 2014 |
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#4
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I would have thought the Rein would hold up. Is there any lateral play in the ball joint itself? Or it just feels loose? Wouldn't think that would cause excessive negative camber alone.
Could this be a really bad swing arm bushing(s)? Didn't see them mentioned in your first post of checks.
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2005 X5 4.4i Build 04/05 Maintenance/Build Log Nav, Pano, Sport (Purchased 06/14 w/ 109,000 miles) (Sold 8/15 w/121,000 miles) 2006 X5 4.8is Build 11/05 Maintenance/Build Log Nav, DSP, Pano, Running Boards, OEM Tow Hitch, Cold Weather Pckg (Purchased 08/15 w/ 90,500 miles) 2010 X5 35d Build 02/10 Nav, HiFi, 6 DVD, Sports Pckg, Cold Weather Pckg, HUD, CAS, Running Boards, Leather Dash, PDC, Pano (Purchased 03/17 w/ 136,120 miles) |
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#5
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When my ball joint failed the slop was mostly axial not radial meaning more toe problem than camber.
When the rubber bush side fails on the control arm or wishbone that can cause instant and dramatic change of the toe or camber. It won't usually move from people power because the donut is still squeezed pretty tight just no longer centered. You may be able to get a Maddie from bolt to bolt to compare left and right sides and help determine but if you can't camber to spec it's almost always the wishbone.
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2011 E70 N55 (me) 2012 E70 N63 (wife) |
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#6
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First: it shouldn't be easy to move with your fingers but I'm not sure how much that changes before becoming a problem.
Second: put the arm in a vice and see if you can pull either side in the long axis of the arm. Mine was very sloppy and moved about 1-1.5 mm. It only takes 1-2mm to really throw off the alignment because the pivot point is so close to the center of the axle. It would be good to know the length spec. Is it possible the whole arm is bent a little more than new? ) To make it shorter)?
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2011 E70 N55 (me) 2012 E70 N63 (wife) |
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#7
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I'm not having issues with getting my camber to adjust. It's all my toe. I cannot adjust ANY amount of camber to get ANY amount of toe-in. Best I can do is like 3mm toe out--which I guess is crap.
My bushings in my lower A-arms are urethane. I'm at max adjust on the guide-link, control arm.
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2003 BMW X5 3.0i -- MT5, 3.64s final gears, H&R lowering springs, K-Mac bushing kit 2007 BMW X3 3.0Si -- MT6 |
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#8
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FCP Euro has the Lemfoerder wishbones for $75 each with free shipping and supposedly lifetime warranty. I guess I'll try ordering these.
I wouldn't imagine a bad wheel bearing contributing to this as I think it would be sloppy all around and very noticeable.
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2003 BMW X5 3.0i -- MT5, 3.64s final gears, H&R lowering springs, K-Mac bushing kit 2007 BMW X3 3.0Si -- MT6 |
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#9
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Are you at stock ride height?
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#10
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Once I adjusted the correct camber, my left wheel was at 28" and the right side was at 28.5" measuring on 20" wheels.
__________________
2003 BMW X5 3.0i -- MT5, 3.64s final gears, H&R lowering springs, K-Mac bushing kit 2007 BMW X3 3.0Si -- MT6 |
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