Spirited Drive -- Now rear Camber Negative

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by RocketyMan

So the rubber seal is possibly masking this movement? I guess that makes sense. I guess this REIN wishbone is a REAL piece of junk...

I was surprised how much difference the rubber made but if you can sense movement with a crowbar, it's shot.

Back Corner is 1600# static. It would not surprise me if the upper joints get 2000-2500# dynamic load and the bottom that holds the weight probably gets 4500+ dynamic force regularly.

[bcredliner]

Originally Posted by Fifty150hs

That sounds like stock height, but the 1/2" difference is odd.

Same amount of air in both tires?

[g300d]

Originally Posted by RocketyMan

Okay...so I took out the RH side wishbone out, and the ball joint doesn't feel AS loose. One way I can tell is that the ball joint has enough internal friction that it will stay in one place while the LH side ball joint has nearly none and the rubber seal returns it to center.

My guess is that the LH side is bad of course.

Either way...I order Lemfoerder branded ones from FCP Euro. I pray to J these will get me to toe in--but TBH, I have very little confidence just because of a little play in the ball joint.

If you look at the bushing end of that wishbone, it should be perfectly centered in its hole. In the E53's I've had done, the bushing was deflected noticeably inward, which would translate to the top of the tire moving inward.

Yours looks to be deflected inwards as well.

Compare the bushing end of your incoming LMI wishbone with the ones you removed.

[RocketyMan]

UPDATE.
Well this is frustrating. I waited nearly two weeks to get the wishbone control arms and made sure to order the top of the line OEM, Lemfoerder. Lo and behold, something doesn't fit correctly. The brake-line holder will not install correctly because the weld extended just a TINY bit too much. Of course it has to be the weld. I already just tried drilling out the weld--but already broke a bit. Buying a new brake-line holder will most likely yield the same results of the bolt not going through due to the extended, excess weld.

ERGH!!! Top brand MY A$$!

[andrewwynn]

Modify the brake line holder not the arm and use a thinner bolt.

It looks like a 6mm or 5mm bolt drop to the next siZe down.

A 6mm 10.9 bolt is good for 2600# clamp force. It does not need to be that strong. 5mm good for 1800# 4mm 1137#

3/16 is about 4.8mm (#10 bolt is good for 1578#).

Those force #s are nominal load = 75% of yield, not breaking strength just normal use.

[80stech]

Just a bit of grinding back the weld will fix that. Die grinder, angle grinder even your drill should work but you need a stone or carbide cutter.

[nick325xit 5spd]

Just jam it through at a slight angle. It doesn't have to be perfectly straight. That's what I did when I did mine. There's nothing structural about that bolt.

There's no reason to screw around with the weld.

[andrewwynn]

Isn't the brake line holder plastic? Just worry the hole into an oval. The nut does not have to be captive in the cute "jock strap" (nut holder).

Else as mentioned above use a thinner bolt.

[nick325xit 5spd]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

Isn't the brake line holder plastic? Just worry the hole into an oval. The nut does not have to be captive in the cute "jock strap" (nut holder).

Else as mentioned above use a thinner bolt.

You guys are overthinking this. Just jam the bolt through at a slight angle and it’ll all go together.

[RocketyMan]

It's just enough weld that I cannot even get the bolt to go through at all even if I were to "force it." I also don't have a smaller bolt. This bolt is already pretty small. Also, if the bolt is not fully seated in the captive hole, then it will sit proud and interfere with the brake line and ABS grommet.

I will try just getting a better drill bit or see if I have to get a dremel to wallow it out like it's suppose to be.