2000 4.4 Problems Starting

[supersteve]

Originally Posted by supersteve

Ok, I'm going to try to put the last seven pages into one post. I'm going to list all the items related to the fuel and ignition systems I and others have posted on this and other forums.

First it's the things that have been checked that will throw a code. Then it's things that won't. Last it's things in the system that haven't been touched on yet. If I leave anything out, I'm sorry. Please add it on. Here goes it.

Code items:
-Crank position sensor = wouldn't start or run at all. Code.
-Cam position sensor = throws a code.
-Throttle position sensor = code and failsafe mode (limits the engine to about 1300 rpm)
-Mass airflow sensor. Starts then dies. Code.

Non code items:
-Battery voltage and capacity. 13.5v 750cca
-Fuel filter and pressure regulator. (50 psi @ fuel rail)
-Vacuum leaks. Blue hose and white hose on top of engine to/from vacuum switch. Oil/air separator drain line.
-Corrosion on electrical connections. Power supply lug on driver side fire wall. Main engine ground. All starter connections. Ground behind engine electronics box.
-Found outside air temp probe stuffed up in the headlights.
-Switched green relays.
-Switched blue relays.
-Ran over 100 gallons of gas with fuel system cleaner.
-Switched keys
-Changed spark plugs
-Checked electronic's cooling fan
-Cleaned fuzz off crank sensor.
-Cleaned fuzz off cam sensors.
-DME reprogram.
-Changed brand and station of gas

Things that could cause problems and haven't been changed or swapped
-Ignition switch
-Dual water temp sensor
-Wiring

I think this is everything. If it's not please let us all know.
Happy Motoring.
Steve

Just a reminder on all that has been done. I think this still covers it plus changing the CPS and the Relays. During the time that I changed my relays and CPS I also pulled the ignition switch and sprayed it with contact cleaner and cleaned up a few wiring connections.

I would look into the ign switch. It's a PITA to get to and pull out. If I ever begin to have problems again I wil be changing it not cleaning it again.

[PaoloX5]

Hi all,

I had the same problem on my 3.0 diesel (cranking for 10 to 20 times before starting), after 2 weeks I had taken my X to dealer.

Dealer told me that a relay was not working properly. Dealer replaced it and now the X starts just fine.

Total bill: Relay: $ 0, Labour: $ 120

Regards,

Paolo.

[ForbesZ]

Mine started doing that in December 2005 when I had about 90,000 miles on it. It was under warranty at the time, so the dealer gave me a loaner for the 2 weeks it took them to figure it out. They changed a bunch of things including the fuel filter, but I believe replacing the key switch in the steering column was what ultimatly cleared up the problem.

I didn't read all 11 pages of this thread, but have you tried replacing the key switch yet?

Hope that helps!

[supersteve]

Originally Posted by supersteve

Just a reminder on all that has been done. I think this still covers it plus changing the CPS and the Relays. During the time that I changed my relays and CPS I also pulled the ignition switch and sprayed it with contact cleaner and cleaned up a few wiring connections.

I would look into the ign switch. It's a PITA to get to and pull out. If I ever begin to have problems again I wil be changing it not cleaning it again.

I haven't had a problem since cleaning the ign switch. (4-5 months)

[sf_mike]

Thanks for the info guys, the ignition switch is pretty much the only thing I haven't tried. It's been in the shop the last 2 days and they haven't been able to find anything. I would note that they did confirm that the DME and unloader relays don't seem to be the culprit (We knew that already). They were pretty much giving up and saying it's either a loose ground or the entire computer, but I'll give them a call.

Steve, do you think the ignition switch is an easy DIY, or worth the $$$ to have someone do it for me, seems like the part isn't extremely expensive... as long as I'm looking at the right part.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...=32&fg=30&hl=5

[supersteve]

Mike,

That looks lke the correct part. #2 Once you get in there it's the block looking thing will the wires plugged into it.

With the correct tools it's not too difficult. You'll need "Torx" type allen keys and some patience as it is a tight fit.

I didn't completely remove mine. I pulled the cover off the stearing column and loosened it up and cleaned it with some contact cleaner. I haven't had a problem since. If it does start, not starting, again I will replace it.

[sf_mike]

Steve, all I can say is WOW! If your last post had been the first in the thread I probably could have saved $1500 over the last year.

On Friday I opened up the steering column, and 20 minutes later and after $10 in contact cleaner, she starts every time. Tested 20-30 times this weekend, both hot and cold, and I've never had it start this well. This is also after it started to act up really bad last week. I think I may have finally solved it (KNOCK ON WOOD)

[supersteve]

Now if we can just get "hellsmindplayer" to try it to confirm, we'll have an absolute

[HellzMindPlaya]

But instead I traded it in. It is gone :'(... I traded it in on a 2007 Mazda Mazdaspeed6. I wanted something faster, and something I could tune for less then $8,000. I hope to get big horsepower with this one. It also has a warrenty! Sorry I couldn't be anymore help, good luck.

270 horsepower, 6 Speed, AWD, Turbo, 4 cylinder Goodness. Now only if it had BMW's build quality. It should shill be a lot of fun.

Later,
Trever

[supersteve]

Trevor,
Sorry to see you go. Now that I haven't had a problem since January and mike seems to agree, maybe you'll be back.

Have fun with your tuner. I've been eyeing up the Subaru WRX. Those things are f%(*#) fast. I had a hard time geting past one on my Kawi.

Cheers,
SS