CV BOOT REPLACED IN 30 MINUTES

[admranger]

Originally Posted by Multibeemer

You are one of the supremely fortunate ones who was able to take your axle out from the hub. If you didn't run out and buy a lottery ticket, you should have, because MANY of us, as documented through this very long thread, weren't so lucky. I tugged, pried, pounded, and swore at mine for many hours before finally and reluctantly giving up, but not before trying every tip, trick, and suggestion in this thread first. Taking the axle out from the inside, which I and the rest of the unlucky ones had to do, easily quintuples the time it takes to replace the boots. Makes the split boot idea very tempting, despite the drawbacks stated in the link you provided. Thankfully, my (not-so-new anymore) boots are holding up, but if one of them splits again, there's no way I'm going to go through the axle removal ordeal again.

You don't need to take the axle out of the hub. Just pop the circlip out of the cv joint itself, as described in this thread. 30 minutes in and out after putting it up on the lift (once you get the angle correct to pop the circlip out). It's easy. Really.

[Multibeemer]

Originally Posted by admranger

You don't need to take the axle out of the hub. Just pop the circlip out of the cv joint itself, as described in this thread. 30 minutes in and out after putting it up on the lift (once you get the angle correct to pop the circlip out). It's easy. Really.

I either missed that one, or it was posted after I went ahead and replaced mine. But also, I don't have a lift (I wish!). Not that it matters (to me, anyway) at this point, but does the circlip removal method work if all you have is a jack and jack stands?

[admranger]

Originally Posted by Multibeemer

does the circlip removal method work if all you have is a jack and jack stands?

Yes.

Look at the design of a cv joint.

The clip on the right side is the one I'm talking about. It holds the axle into the cv joint. Not exactly how our joint looks, but you can get the idea from it.

You take the middle control arm bolt to the front subframe off, then pry the axle off (it would have helped to have a second set of hands, but it's doable by yourself). Finding the right leverage point is the key. Once you look at it you can likely figure it out easily.

[StephenVA]

The drop the control arm and uncliping the joint from the shaft allows you to insert the new boot over the joint. This quick solution is only a complete repair if the boot has just cracked or beginning to split and you catch it Before dirt or water gets into the grease and bearings.
This project is quick and can be accomplished with just the front jacked up on stands. Takes 1 hr plus set up, clean up, and dropping the X5 back down on the wheels. There are lots of images posted on this process.

Note:
Pushing the axle hub out and pulling the axle free, doing a COMPLETE bearing tear down and cleaning out all the grease, inspecting and repacking the boots, is in my opinion the correct way to go IF you are in anyway concerned about dirt or water contamination , or if the condition of the bearing is in question. ESPECIALLY, if there was any snapping and popping coming from the front end on HARD full lock turns. The process of turning clockwise or counterclockwise to determine CV joint condition, forces the joint into max flex position exposing joint "looseness", hence the joint no longer flexes freely but snaps from position to position as the ball bearings have worn spots and or cage is bent.

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by Multibeemer

You are one of the supremely fortunate ones who was able to take your axle out from the hub. If you didn't run out and buy a lottery ticket, you should have, because MANY of us, as documented through this very long thread, weren't so lucky. I tugged, pried, pounded, and swore at mine for many hours before finally and reluctantly giving up, but not before trying every tip, trick, and suggestion in this thread first. Taking the axle out from the inside, which I and the rest of the unlucky ones had to do, easily quintuples the time it takes to replace the boots. Makes the split boot idea very tempting, despite the drawbacks stated in the link you provided. Thankfully, my (not-so-new anymore) boots are holding up, but if one of them splits again, there's no way I'm going to go through the axle removal ordeal again.

I am one of the fortunate ones but be aware that I am in the salt belt up here in Jersey as well so I'm not working on a pristine Florida X5.

After 10 years I figured the axle and nut would be on there pretty good, so I did 2 things
1) Rented the proper tools to get the axle out of the hub (if you ever get your wheel bearings done the axle would need to come out at some point)
2) Popped the center caps off my wheels, and used Penetrating Oil (I used PB Blaster, but Kroil, WD40 even, or the popular 1:1 ATF/Acetone mix works even better) on the center Axle nut and around it to loosen the axle nut and penetrate into the axle splines, twice a day for the 5 days prior to starting the job.

I used a Hub Puller flange which bolts down over the hub with 3 wheel bolts, and uses a threaded rod in the middle which when used with proper wrench on the hex portion of the rod will "push in" the axle out of the hub, once you have the axle nut removed. Note that once I had axle nut removed I sprayed the axle splines liberally with penetrating oil to loosen it up.

No hammering on the axle stub, and no issues. I will note, that if you want to do the job properly and not run into snags, you need to plan ahead, and you need to not be in a rush. Don't try to finish before the kids soccer games, etc. My wheel bearings were actually a much bigger problem that removing the axle and replacing the boots. But I planned ahead for it. With any big job on these cars, something you definitely need to do.

[cn90]

This is a loooong thread, however the crux of the very first thread is to tell people how to do it the easier way. I do the same thing with my Volvos, i.e., undoing the INNER CV Joint.

For GKN-Lobro design: the idea is to undo the INNER CV Joint because it is much easier to undo the INNER CV Joint. The OUTER CV joint is always a bitch to deal with.

This is based on the assumption that the boot just cracked and spilled some grease and there is no damage to the CV Joint yet.

1- Use only BMW boot, or GKN-Lobro: rmeuropean dot com has it for cheap.

2- Once you undo the INNER CV Joint, you need to replace both boots (even though only the outer boot is bad). Stay away from Advance Auto boots, or EMPI boots, unless you want to do it again soon.

3- The INNER CV Joint: the 3-leg thingy is actually called Tripod.

These are the only 3 pertinent things for those experienced DIYers.

[StephenVA]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

I am one of the fortunate ones but be aware that I am in the salt belt up here in Jersey as well so I'm not working on a pristine Florida X5.

After 10 years I figured the axle and nut would be on there pretty good, so I did 2 things
1) Rented the proper tools to get the axle out of the hub (if you ever get your wheel bearings done the axle would need to come out at some point)
2) Popped the center caps off my wheels, and used Penetrating Oil (I used PB Blaster, but Kroil, WD40 even, or the popular 1:1 ATF/Acetone mix works even better) on the center Axle nut and around it to loosen the axle nut and penetrate into the axle splines, twice a day for the 5 days prior to starting the job.

I used a Hub Puller flange which bolts down over the hub with 3 wheel bolts, and uses a threaded rod in the middle which when used with proper wrench on the hex portion of the rod will "push in" the axle out of the hub, once you have the axle nut removed. Note that once I had axle nut removed I sprayed the axle splines liberally with penetrating oil to loosen it up.

No hammering on the axle stub, and no issues. I will note, that if you want to do the job properly and not run into snags, you need to plan ahead, and you need to not be in a rush. Don't try to finish before the kids soccer games, etc. My wheel bearings were actually a much bigger problem that removing the axle and replacing the boots. But I planned ahead for it. With any big job on these cars, something you definitely need to do.

You be the man! Thanks for posting this as it CAN NOT be said too often on all type of repairs.

[applecran]

I completed this job today. Was in a bit of a rush to get parts and ended up with good outer for my busted one, but the inner I got didn't fit, good thing I didn't cut the old one. So I had after taking the inner tripod joint off, replacing the outer and inner, greasing, putting the joint pack on and replacing the c-clip, I had to do the inner a again! Luckily I bought two outers and was able to use the clamps from the second outer on my old inner.

Now to order parts for the passenger side.

Thanks for all the posts here, I would have just dropped it at my Indy if it weren't for this thread.

[StephenVA]

Glad it helped.

[cn90]

@applecran,

As I mentioned above, rmeuropean dot com has the INNER GKN Lobro for $12!

This job requires a lot of time/labor/blood/sweat.

Gather all the stuff before doing it, the CV boots are cheap. Better to gather all the stuff than wasting your time to redo it later. The INNER rarely goes bad, it lasts some 150K or more. However, you can argue that "since you are there", you may as well replace the INNER boot.

This is what I do with my Volvos at home (the axle is also made by GKN so similar setup), over the years, I have found that undoing the OUTER CV clip is a PITA, so I have resorted to undoing the INNER Tripod, which is 100x easier. In the process of doing so, I may as well replace the INNER boot "since I am there".

The OUTER is subjected to R turns, L turns, and up and down movement, usually cracks after 60K-80K.