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  #361  
Old 12-15-2017, 07:37 AM
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Hi guys!

I have a couple of questions having read through this, and now have my X5 jacked up with the wheel off etc...

1) How do you remove the driveshaft spindle from the gearbox? Are there any clips etc holding it in place, or does it just pull straight out? I have a slide hammer which will assist me, but don't want to start hammering it back if there's something that holds it in place?

2) When the driveshaft is popped out of the gearbox, does the gearbox leak oil and need to be topped up again after refitting? Or is it literally just a socket? I ask as I did this similar job on my Volvo V50 a while back and that leaks gearbox fluid from the hole and must be refilled!!!

3) I'm having trouble finding an INNER front CV gaitor at a sensible price. Outer, easy. Inner, not so. I bought one from Euro Car Parts which they state is inner https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/B...94ebe87&000445 However, looking inside it once it arrived did not have the three moulded parts around the inner edge that fit around the tripod. So I sent it back. But now I'm wondering if they make this oversized to completely emcompass the tripod joint??? Did the one you used have the three moulded parts on the inside edge to fit around the trpod?

Really need some help, and much appreciated!
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  #362  
Old 12-31-2017, 07:43 AM
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Hi mate - not sure if you've got this sorted yet - but it "levers/taps" out and is held in by a clip, much like the outer cv joint. There's a guy on You Tube - The 50s Kid - who has a range of excellent tutorials on the E46 and also the E53 - and he shows how to remove the whole shaft. No oil trickles out - and lots of people seem to just reinsert when they're done - would have thought it's worth replacing the seal amd c clip though... and for some stuff/parts I really think you need to bite the bullet and go BMW - so I'd advise to get the boots from there. The quality is much better. On my car I had an original bmw boot just starting to crack and a replacement boot - which had collapsed. Bmw part was twice as thick - and you know it will fit properly and last.

I've just replaced the outer boots on both sides and cleaned out and regreased the joints. Thank you to the original posters and all those who contributed. Really helped me.

My method was to remove the straight control arm from the subframe. Remove the brake assembly (while I don't think it's necessary for the repair - it does make the hub lighter to man-handle around) then the two bolts holding the strut onto the hub. Turn the wheel into the car and tap out the axle (after removing the axle nut....). Then slot one bolt back into the hub and strut to hold it in place. To remove the outer cv joint, cut away the boot and clean the grease a bit so you can see the centre star part where you have to whack it, as per the guides earlier. I used a foot long, pretty ancient masonary chisel and a medium sized metal mallet - pointed the axle and cv joint out and towards the rear of the car (as far round as it would go) and lay at the front of car and hit the star part of the joint. You don't need to beat the sht out of it. Hit it "solidly". So more than a tap, but not like you're at the fair ground trying to get the bell to ring. If it won't come off then rotate the axle slightly - as I think there's a sweet spot for the c-clip holding it together to pop out. Someone else mentioned this somewhere I think - pops off very easily when it's rotated to the correct spot. To reassemble I used the advice given earlier to ise a hose clip over the c clip. Not mega tight or it wont slide off - and also - make sure it can be completely opened so you can remove it after the axle is on!

I'm an experienced, albeit amateur diy-er - I am very slow and methodical and clean stuff as I go etc - but took me 5 hours a side including tidying up!
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  #363  
Old 01-02-2018, 07:38 AM
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Thank you for the reply.

I actually did the work now. In the end I left the driveshaft in situ (I wish I'd heard from you sooner however as I may well have removed it!!!)

I stripped down the caliper/carrier and pushed the driveshaft out of the hib (I have a proper hub puller thankfully to push it out with as it would never have come out otherwise!!!)

I disconnected the straight lower suspension arm at the engine side which allows enough room for the driveshaft to be removed from the hub.

I then installed a stretch boot gaitor which goes on with the cv joint in situ using a cone. They are silicone rather than rubber so very stretchy. They're used a LOT these days so they must be pretty decent.

Agreed the BMW genuine one is probably better quality, but also six times the price (!!!)

The job was not too tricky TBH as long as you have a hub puller (pusher) tool. Without it I honestly don't think the driveshaft would have come out of the hub, and smashing it with a hammer would take so much work and likely damage things.

Also, a air compressor with DECENT air gun is recommended for the hub nut. It's 420nm so ridiculously tight. To tighten basically keep it going until it stops on the gun and is flush with the hub, then impress the outer edges with a hammer a flat screwdriver to ensure it stays put.

Thankfully I had access to those tools as the way I did it would have been a NIGHTMARE without decent tools, but not too bad with them :-)
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  #364  
Old 01-02-2018, 09:05 AM
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Ah well done. Yeah - I’d seen the stretch kits but wasn’t sure how good they were - would you mind posting a link to the kit and the boots you used, as I’m interested in seeing what they’re like/how much they cost etc.

Agreed re smashing the axles out - I did use a three jaw puller to push one side out now I come to think of it/break it loose - but it then pulled out by hand pretty easily.

I have a draper 36mm impact socket - and it just slips off when tightening by hand - so I used a Clarke impact gun (electric/plug into the mains jobbie) supposedly rated to 450nm and it undid them easily and did them up nice and tight.

Cheers!
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  #365  
Old 01-02-2018, 09:14 AM
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Yes, no problem. I bought the kit from a (very) well respected supplier on eBay that manufacture lots of their own driveshafts and joints which are generally very well rated.

The stretch CV gaitor kit was 5.49 delivered:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-X5-CV-...72.m2749.l2649

My drive shaft was in REALLY tight. I was worried that it may be rusted in at first as the hammer had NO effect. But the proper tool did the job. This is not the exact one I have, but almost identical (min has a few more accessories than this one):

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-Heavy-...oAAOSwq9lZiKp9

Yes, any decent meaty impact gun should get that nut off. You can't really tighten stuff effectively to 420nm by hand as that's a lot!!! Unless you're hanging off of the end of a 1.5 meter bar (nice and safe of course!)
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  #366  
Old 01-02-2018, 09:18 AM
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Found it! This is my exact hub puller set - a bargain for what you get (the same kit from Sealey is 300+):

B#Professional Wheel Hub Puller Set 30 pcs Multi Autos Bolts Heavy Duty | eBay

As you can see, 75. Great bit of kit. You can find video's on YouTube etc on how to use them to 'push' the driveshaft out. No hammering involved, although you get a slide hammer set in this kit as well which I think is for inner joints or rear shafts??? Depends on the car I guess.
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  #367  
Old 01-02-2018, 03:29 PM
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Thanks mate!
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  #368  
Old 02-09-2018, 05:21 AM
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So there are some pretty clever guys on this subject, I can not get the wheel off and stripped down, hub off in 30 mins! Take's me about 1hr 30 mins. So for a time issue, I need to replace my CV boot, and let me tell you, my X5 e53 LOVES to eat through these outer CV boots. So.... time for a change of tactics. And yes... perhaps I was installing the original boots incorrectly but I did follow the instruction to the letter.

so.... I am trying Sticky Boots for the first time, some say they are rubbish others say, if you fit them correctly and keep everything clean and glue them properly, they will LAST as long as originals. Time to find out huh??

If anyone is interested, these are my plans for the job, will add some photos later but the videos are really very clear. BTW I have no affiliation with Bailcast, they are simply the brand of CV Boot I bought and I have used their products before. Make in England and heavy duty so no Chinese rubbish here. (Apologies to the Peoples Republic of China, but you have a reputation for cheap rubber).

(Sorry names like Wilko/Screwfix are hardware stores in Uk, think harbor freight/Sears or whatever local hardware/auto stores are in your state)

BailCast Sticky Boot

How to do this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvm64xuSMMA&t=623s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nLAWIQ05DS0

Check the boot kit

REALLY sharp knife
Snips - Wilko
Wirebrushes
Kitchen Roll - Wilko/saynos
Cling film (Celo Food Wrap)
Black Spray - 4702r
Gloves - 53009

1. Jack Car
2. Wheel off
3. Clean up this drive shaft with wire brush
4. Remove the old boot, start with large screw driver and leaver out.
5. Clean up inner hub with wire brush
6. Rotate wheel as you work
7. Inner metal band is held on with a clip, open with screw driver (small)
8. Slide back boot
9. CUT boot length ways - Remove and measure against new boot, then cut to size.
10. MOVE inner metal band.
11. Snip Metal band
12. Clean up
13. Clingfilm area
14. Clean up with wire brush
15. Remove Clingfilm
16. Clean up
17. New gloves
18. Clingfilm the shaft so the boot stays clean whilst using glue
19. Take time to glue boot at 2cm a(1/2 ) at a time.
20. Add new grease and rotate wheel.
21. Install clip rings both outer and inner
22. Tension clips and nip them tight
23. If you are like me, you want to stop any corrosion, spray a bit of anti corrosion pain on the shaft just to neaten it up.


Done! If like me, you are doing this in Feb in England on your driveway, you need to get the kettle on, and get a drop of whiskey in it to warm yourself up.
__________________
BMW X5 E53 3.0 Diesel Sport | Sapphire Black Dakota Beige Leather interior | Year 2004

What I had updated
Carbon Effect Steering Wheel
Panoramic Sunroof Fix
PVC Replacement
All glowplugs and glowplug regulator
New discs and pads all round
All new front suspension links, bushes and rods
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  #369  
Old 02-09-2018, 06:54 AM
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Good job!

Good job!

Yes, I often wondered about the CV boots that you glue together. I was always concerned about using them as grease and glue are a bad combination. Was it hard to keep the join free of grease?
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  #370  
Old 02-09-2018, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lion Heart View Post
Good job!

Yes, I often wondered about the CV boots that you glue together. I was always concerned about using them as grease and glue are a bad combination. Was it hard to keep the join free of grease?
Its a good question Lion Heart, and I think a combination of keeping everything very clean (i.e clinically) and cling film. I am going to do it tomorrow so once I have it done, I will report back any issues. But the cling film around the shaft to then place the boot and glue... then wait for glue to set, then remove cling film, then grease... I can only wait and see.

However, I totally agree with you, normally grease and super glue do not make good bedfellows. If it works, I will do this again, if not, back to the old PITA way.
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BMW X5 E53 3.0 Diesel Sport | Sapphire Black Dakota Beige Leather interior | Year 2004

What I had updated
Carbon Effect Steering Wheel
Panoramic Sunroof Fix
PVC Replacement
All glowplugs and glowplug regulator
New discs and pads all round
All new front suspension links, bushes and rods
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