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  #8661  
Old 09-29-2017, 01:09 AM
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I installed a new ignition switch and seeing as it was the factory switch with over 200k miles on it not to bad lasting wise I guess.

I thought my battery was the problem with it not cranking sometimes and then cranking after trying again. Figuring the steering wheel moving during its auto adjust routine was pulling the volts down to low. Turns out the switch was on the way out. My e46 did this before which clicked in my mind after I replaced the battery

Battery was definitely weak but one it was ruled out the switch was obvious. At least its super easy to install on bmw's.
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  #8662  
Old 09-29-2017, 06:32 AM
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Pulled my screen, and re-seated the ribbon cables. Now it's not yellow (or completely blank)

Also broke the LHF door handle carrier... Knew it was on it's way out since I bought the car, but didn't bother buying a spare yet.
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2005 E53 4.4i
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95 E38 740iL (sold)
93 E32 735i (sold)
91 E32 735iL (sold)
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89 E34 525i with M30B35 conversion (sold)
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  #8663  
Old 09-29-2017, 02:22 PM
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don't' replace your door handle carrier; almost certainly it broke in such a way that it's a relatively easy repair: Yanking Door Open Any Ideas? - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums

scroll to post #20, where i detail how to repair with a piece of 16ga spring steel.

It's a design defect that causes these to break; rather than disengage the lock mechanism when the door is locked, bmw chose to 'block' the mechanism; sadly that little blocking arm gets stuck in gummy residue over time and the door stays locked when all indications are it is unlocked. The user does what any user would; pull harder; and they break the hinge on the pot metal bracket.

If you ever notice a 'click' slightly delayed after you unlock your door, that's the signal that the locking bar is 'taking its sweet time' to move to the unlocked position. If you ever pulled and it didn't open but a second pull worked, also a good chance this is why; 100x more likely when ambient temperature is cold; owners from cold climate used to their door seals icing up will assume that is what happened and pull really hard, breaking the hinge.

Fortunately the way the hinge is designed makes it relatively easy to repair; unfortunately the videos are no longer hosted by tapatalk but the pictures are there; i think i used a drill bit to make a little more room but with relative simplicity i wrapped a few wraps of steel wire around the hinge pin where the hinge broke. Not only was it a free repair, it's many times stronger than the original part because not only steel, it's flexible so not brittle.

PM me I can probably find my original unit, i could send it to you you could perform the fix and have a working unit before you take the door apart (just in case of the 1% chance it was something else that broke). It was a little tedious to get the stiff metal wire bent around in circles while holding the hinge together, it would be easier to perform the repair with a second set of helper hands, also there are spring-steel cable-straps that would probably work in mere seconds, i just didn't want to take the chance that i would have to re-do the tear-down of the door in case it moved or something.
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  #8664  
Old 09-29-2017, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by semcoinc View Post
Now seeing 109*C regularly in Test #7 display and I want my old (stuck open) thermostat back.
Mike
That seems entirely too hot. IIRC my replacement t-stat opens about 90C and keeps the coolant about that temp. In my case when mine was stuck 'sorta open' my coolant temp never got to even 80C if the ambient temp was below about 40F, and not even 60C if ambient was below freezing.

Do you have an IR thermometer etc to get a reality check on your coolant temp (measure the temp of the hose), i'm wondering if your temp sensor is off (way off) and '109' actually is 90. Otherwise, it would seem the replacement is 'stuck shut' at least opening way too late.
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  #8665  
Old 09-29-2017, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
don't' replace your door handle carrier; almost certainly it broke in such a way that it's a relatively easy repair: Yanking Door Open Any Ideas? - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums

scroll to post #20, where i detail how to repair with a piece of 16ga spring steel.

It's a design defect that causes these to break; rather than disengage the lock mechanism when the door is locked, bmw chose to 'block' the mechanism; sadly that little blocking arm gets stuck in gummy residue over time and the door stays locked when all indications are it is unlocked. The user does what any user would; pull harder; and they break the hinge on the pot metal bracket.
Cheers, I've already ordered one so I'll probably put it aside and fix the original when the new one comes.
Don't really want to pull the door trim off more than once if it turns out to be something different.
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2005 E53 4.4i
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95 E38 740iL (sold)
93 E32 735i (sold)
91 E32 735iL (sold)
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89 E34 525i with M30B35 conversion (sold)
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  #8666  
Old 09-29-2017, 08:37 PM
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There has to be a cure for this but I must be wording my search wrong...

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2005 E53 4.4i
2003 E53 3.0d (Mrs)
95 E38 740iL (sold)
93 E32 735i (sold)
91 E32 735iL (sold)
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89 E34 525i with M30B35 conversion (sold)
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  #8667  
Old 09-29-2017, 10:44 PM
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Are those spots under the top sheet of the screen? It looks as if some moisture got inside the display. I had a laptop have a similar problem. I disassembled the screen and washed each layer of plastic (about six) with Windex then reassembled. Fixed good as new. Do they move or change depending on conditions?


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  #8668  
Old 09-29-2017, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
Are those spots under the top sheet of the screen? It looks as if some moisture got inside the display. I had a laptop have a similar problem. I disassembled the screen and washed each layer of plastic (about six) with Windex then reassembled. Fixed good as new. Do they move or change depending on conditions?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
It's air bubbles I think. They don't move. That's the Mrs X5, mine has 3 bubbles.
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2005 E53 4.4i
2003 E53 3.0d (Mrs)
95 E38 740iL (sold)
93 E32 735i (sold)
91 E32 735iL (sold)
93 E34 535i (sold)
89 E34 525i with M30B35 conversion (sold)
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  #8669  
Old 09-30-2017, 06:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blakamin View Post
It's air bubbles I think. They don't move. That's the Mrs X5, mine has 3 bubbles.
That's what mine looked like when I replaced it with the aftermarket radio.

I figured the previous owners or passengers tried to use it as a "touch" screen not realizing how it works
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Just BMW's - All cars and trucks was two pages long
1994 318is
1997 528i
2000 323i
2001 X5 3.0 auto
2005 X5 3.0 auto
2011 535xi auto
2013 X5 xdrive35 Turbo
More are at my website

Aftermarket E53 Radio Install
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  #8670  
Old 09-30-2017, 06:17 AM
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Yeah, not going aftermarket... Have 2 of these things! And can't be bothered going through all the BS you have so far.
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2005 E53 4.4i
2003 E53 3.0d (Mrs)
95 E38 740iL (sold)
93 E32 735i (sold)
91 E32 735iL (sold)
93 E34 535i (sold)
89 E34 525i with M30B35 conversion (sold)
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