What did you do to / for your E53 today??

[blakamin]

Yeah, considering both ours have it, and nearly every single car we looked at when we were buying had at least 1 "bubble", I thought it'd be a more common problem and there would be a fix on the net. Oh well.

[txyaloo]

Originally Posted by blakamin

Yeah, considering both ours have it, and nearly every single car we looked at when we were buying had at least 1 "bubble", I thought it'd be a more common problem and there would be a fix on the net. Oh well.

The fix is to replace the LCD. I know there are quite a few threads on here showing the DIY. I believe you can buy the Sharp screen on ebay.

Here's a 20+ page thread on LCD replacement.

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...v-monitor.html

[Pekelicious]

heard a Knocking sound on Bank 1 while i was cruising at 50km/h stopped called a tow truck and sent it to my Indy.....

[bcredliner]

FYI- We need to get back to using this thread as intended rather than post and resolve problems. What did you do to / for your eE53 today?

[blakamin]

Originally Posted by bcredliner

FYI- We need to get back to using this thread as intended rather than post and resolve problems. What did you do to / for your eE53 today?

Yeah, sorry...
Went on a drive out the bush then washed 2 E53s and the E38.
Beer o'clock.

[deepblonde]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

don't' replace your door handle carrier; almost certainly it broke in such a way that it's a relatively easy repair: Yanking Door Open Any Ideas? - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums

scroll to post #20, where i detail how to repair with a piece of 16ga spring steel.

It's a design defect that causes these to break; rather than disengage the lock mechanism when the door is locked, bmw chose to 'block' the mechanism; sadly that little blocking arm gets stuck in gummy residue over time and the door stays locked when all indications are it is unlocked. The user does what any user would; pull harder; and they break the hinge on the pot metal bracket.

If you ever notice a 'click' slightly delayed after you unlock your door, that's the signal that the locking bar is 'taking its sweet time' to move to the unlocked position. If you ever pulled and it didn't open but a second pull worked, also a good chance this is why; 100x more likely when ambient temperature is cold; owners from cold climate used to their door seals icing up will assume that is what happened and pull really hard, breaking the hinge.

Fortunately the way the hinge is designed makes it relatively easy to repair; unfortunately the videos are no longer hosted by tapatalk but the pictures are there; i think i used a drill bit to make a little more room but with relative simplicity i wrapped a few wraps of steel wire around the hinge pin where the hinge broke. Not only was it a free repair, it's many times stronger than the original part because not only steel, it's flexible so not brittle.

PM me I can probably find my original unit, i could send it to you you could perform the fix and have a working unit before you take the door apart (just in case of the 1% chance it was something else that broke). It was a little tedious to get the stiff metal wire bent around in circles while holding the hinge together, it would be easier to perform the repair with a second set of helper hands, also there are spring-steel cable-straps that would probably work in mere seconds, i just didn't want to take the chance that i would have to re-do the tear-down of the door in case it moved or something.

I like your repair with the steel wire,
I think that will hold up longer than most cable straps.
It must have been tedious to thread the wire around?
Did you just use pliers?
Could you re-upload your videos to youtube or something?

Your fix deserves its own thread...

[jljljl]

Brake fluid flush today.
and been having the mrs airbag driver stage 2 code .. had to send it in to my indy.
what sucks about it is that it appeared after I sent it in to the dealership for the recall for driver side airbag. Never had any problems prior to sending it in and having the recall service done. They wanted me to pay to look into it and if it was because of the recall that caused the light, they would waive the fee.
Rather send it to my indy.

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by deepblonde

I like your repair with the steel wire,
I think that will hold up longer than most cable straps.
It must have been tedious to thread the wire around?
Did you just use pliers?
Could you re-upload your videos to youtube or something?

Your fix deserves its own thread...

See my new thread: What is/was broken on your E53 today?

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...7&share_type=t


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[LVR]

Had disastrous time a few days ago with engine fail safe mode, limp home mode, could not reverse out of a slight incline driveway, stalling, rough idle etc on my bunky 4.4....

Was going to have it towed but after it cooled down and started telling me about an emissions error I got it home...seriously thought about parting it out....

Found an ex BMW mechanic willing to read codes so I could start getting a budget for parts, eg replacing MAF, battery etc....

He had a look at it, reconnected O2 sensor displaced by dealer at service, replaced MAF sensor/wire? (for $8), fixed faulty side light, replaced transfer case oil, altered /recoded transmission behaviour (had noticed slam and bad shifts) and a few other maintenance items....

$400....

Drives like new... purrs along... very happy camper today...it's a keeper

[noahx5]

Finally got around replacing these last weekend after neglecting them for months

1. A/C compressor, expansion valve and dryer insert.
2. Oil filter housing gasket (medium leak)
3. Valve cover gasket (small leak) and vanos seals
4. Passenger side CV axle (boot failure)

My 2004 X5 has only 85000 miles and hopefully I won't have to touch any of these again for a long time. Many thanks to the members who took their time to write DIY guides and how-tos.