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  #21  
Old 11-18-2014, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by admranger View Post
... so here's the linky to the 30 minute cv boot change:

cv-boot-replaced-30-minutes.html
Just a side note: The procedure was done in approximately 30 minutes with 2 experienced engineers in no hurry. For just about everyone else doing this for the first time in their garage as a DIY, it will take you longer to set up and complete the task.

This method is an alternative way to the traditional book method. Either one you choose should net the same result.

As posted, if you can catch the boot leak without the axle clicking or making noises, just replace the boot. Indy shops can get you fixed for around $500. Dealership wont be so easy on your wallet for this job. If you need to replace the axle, bite the bullett and purchase a GKN replacement or the dealership reman axle. You dont want to throw on anything less than that for such a critical piece.
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  #22  
Old 11-18-2014, 04:41 PM
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hi all, i have problem when i start a car after 2rd gear to 3rd gear, when the car is cold safe mode prog come on board and move is very slow.after i turn off car and start after 10 second , there is no messege and no promblem all day long, next day morning there is same problem!! today i checked by computer and there was problem slipping 2rd gear to 3 gear, can anybody tell what i do, some say me there is problem of brain some say abot transsmission problem but why its comes when the car is cold???
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  #23  
Old 11-18-2014, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by SANSABA1 View Post
hi all, i have problem when i start a car after 2rd gear to 3rd gear, when the car is cold safe mode prog come on board and move is very slow.after i turn off car and start after 10 second , there is no messege and no promblem all day long, next day morning there is same problem!! today i checked by computer and there was problem slipping 2rd gear to 3 gear, can anybody tell what i do, some say me there is problem of brain some say abot transsmission problem but why its comes when the car is cold???
You have a completely different problem, you should start a new thread.

Well upon a list of building issues I have with my 4.8is (see my bad luck thread), I was under the car looking for a transmission leak and noticed both of my inner boots are shot. The passenger side was spewing grease all over the place, and the driver's side seemed ok at first but then I noticed a small tear, but no grease has come out yet. The outer boots seemed ok. I have only put 2500 miles on the truck since I had it, and when I had the PPI done I do not remember there being any tears. Haven't noticed any popping noises either. So I ordered 2 new OEM boot repair kits today.

So basically looking over the 30 min CV change thread (it's long haven't read through all of it yet), I just need to unbolt the straight control arm closer to the engine and then pop the axle out of the CV joint? I probably will need to clean up the passenger side a little bit, but I don't think the driver's side has been contaminated at all.
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  #24  
Old 11-18-2014, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by mikes123 View Post
You have a completely different problem, you should start a new thread.

Well upon a list of building issues I have with my 4.8is (see my bad luck thread), I was under the car looking for a transmission leak and noticed both of my inner boots are shot. The passenger side was spewing grease all over the place, and the driver's side seemed ok at first but then I noticed a small tear, but no grease has come out yet. The outer boots seemed ok. I have only put 2500 miles on the truck since I had it, and when I had the PPI done I do not remember there being any tears. Haven't noticed any popping noises either. So I ordered 2 new OEM boot repair kits today.

So basically looking over the 30 min CV change thread (it's long haven't read through all of it yet), I just need to unbolt the straight control arm closer to the engine and then pop the axle out of the CV joint? I probably will need to clean up the passenger side a little bit, but I don't think the driver's side has been contaminated at all.
You should take the time to read through it. There's more than one method listed in the whole post. The method you choose will depend on your resources and personal capabilities.

The alternative axle boot replacement procedures are clever but they're not made for everyone. The book method that Bentley publishes isn't really that hard at all nor is there anything wrong with the procedure.
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  #25  
Old 11-21-2014, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by CharlieHustleX5 View Post
You should take the time to read through it. There's more than one method listed in the whole post. The method you choose will depend on your resources and personal capabilities.

The alternative axle boot replacement procedures are clever but they're not made for everyone. The book method that Bentley publishes isn't really that hard at all nor is there anything wrong with the procedure.

Well I just decided to replace both axles with GKN units. I was getting a horrible vibration when I accelerated that I think could of been caused by the driver's CV joint. So I will be doing the whole thing. Woohoo.
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  #26  
Old 11-21-2014, 07:32 PM
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Good Luck with the axles. Posters complained about staking the nut but it is not a problem with a punch and a LARGE hammer.

Tips: Spray down all the splines with a WD-40 type product 24 before trying to press out the hub. (Plenty of postings on how-to)

Hope all goes well and the weather or shop is nice warm and dry.
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  #27  
Old 11-25-2014, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by mikes123 View Post
Well I just decided to replace both axles with GKN units. I was getting a horrible vibration when I accelerated that I think could of been caused by the driver's CV joint. So I will be doing the whole thing. Woohoo.
If you've worked on cars before, you should be fine. The Tutorial written by hayaku http://www.xoutpost.com/articles/x5/...mw-x5-e53.html is real in-depth and in collaboration with the 30 min replacement thread, that's everything you need to tackle the job (minus necessary hand tools).
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  #28  
Old 11-26-2014, 02:09 PM
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Thanks for the advise. I already have the old ones out, actually was pretty easy. Hardest part was getting the rotor off, lol. (not sure if that was even needed but I am replacing the brakes anyways). Having air tools definitely helps. Also, I borrowed this penetrating spray from a friend, he used to sell big truck equipment, and it is amazing stuff. I let it soak overnight, and the axle easily came out of the hub. All I did was remove the caliper and rotors, disconnected the height sensor and abs sensor, and then the straight lower control arm at the body side. That gave me enough room to remove it.

A bit off topic, but now that I have the axles out, I really need to go ahead and replace my motor mount and the driver's side engine bracket (item #1 below). It is broken on the top. The axles being out does give me more room, but I need to figure out what else I need to remove to get to it.

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  #29  
Old 05-20-2019, 08:03 PM
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Heh guys, my front left passenger CV boot is torn with very little grease left. My right CV boot is starting to go. Is it an instant urgent job needing done straight away?

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  #30  
Old 05-20-2019, 08:33 PM
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We decided to sit it out, as replacing the boots was going to cost almost as much as replacing the axles with remanufactured GKNs. I figured I'll just wait until I start hearing the tell-tale clicking on turns. Well, here we are 5 years and 50,000 miles later and still no clicking or other signs of problems! She just traded the car in, so make of that what you will.
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