I picked up another sibling for my X5

got a 03 Z4 black on black 3.0i with the 6spd manual.

that now makes 3 in the drive way along with the 99 M3

Washed it, then drove it in the rain........:doh:

Took it to Bimmerfest... Then promptly dropped the window regulator... With no tools.

Then did a quick drive through the race pits and coincidentally found the cars PO! He had been doing a track session and had every tool i needed :). Somehow the securing clips came free and the glass fell off the track (I stupidly reused the original ones), I had replaced the regulator a few months prior too. Needless to say I'm thankful I got it all fixed up for the day. PO saved the day! Now to get some new clips on tuesday.

http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps0aq6mwcc.jpg
http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps5lur8laa.jpg

Nice pix, DKing. The blacks are gorgeous when properly detailed. I'm putting my list together today to order parts to do the front suspension overhaul and a few cosmetics - angel eye LEDs since one original bulb is out; replace the license plate light fittings; lower front 'wire' grid. At 150k miles, plenty to do.

Motor mounts, transfer case mount, driveshaft CV joint.

Looking good, D. Did you code it lower or it's in "access" mode?

Thanks!

No coding, I kept it in the low setting for most of the day. Made for some great pics :)

First 4.8 I've seen wearing the earlier style 4.6 alloys - looks awesome!
Have you deleted the aluminum running boards?

Running boards were kept as a stand alone option in the states :(

Installed the Lexani Forged wheels today.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...b1fce2562e.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...255f0e4af3.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...9c62f4b254.jpg

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What is the size (diameter, width and offset) of the Lexanin wheels? Nice look

Regards,

Jay

Nice! :thumbup:

just confirming after replacing the ofhg no more leaks :thumbup:

6HP26x Transmission Service
 

Mechatronics sealing sleeve was leaking a bit of fluid leaving a puddle where ever it is parked.
I replaced the sleeve and did a transmission service including the resetting of adaptions. No real noticeable change beyond no oil on my driveway...

Recommend getting your ZF service kits and parts from this place:
The California Transmission Supply Company
Great prices and quick delivery service!

2005 4.8is in Imola Red.

Phew .. been wrenching all memorial day weekend:

Underride protection, new OEM headlight assemblies (old were very foggy and yellow) and HID in fogs.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0...2016-05-31.jpg

OEM Running boards

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-F...2016-05-31.jpg

OEM trailer hitch (those T55's were such a pain)

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-k...2016-05-31.jpg

And full LED interior lights treatment:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-G...2016-05-27.jpg

In progress ...

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-F...2016-05-31.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-H...2016-05-27.jpg

And done!

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-I...2016-05-29.jpg

Replaced battery over the weekend. Was purchased in January of 09. There had been no symptoms of battery going bad. Tried to start it that morning and it wouldn't even click. Tried to charge the battery and wouldn't charge past 12%.

Very nice! Bet it seems like a whole new truck after all of that!!

Wow no warning. That is what spooks me about not replacing my 545i battery after 6 years of service. I am worried I might come out from the movies and click click.

I am not being cheap, just trying to find the balance between not replacing parts too soon and not asking for it either.

Yeah, as the thread about underride protection installation says, it feels like a sedan now on twisty roads, very different feeling from the front end.

replaced vanos solenoid on exhaust side because it appeared to be leaking oil from the plastic part at the connector end. Not sure if it's a common problem or not ? Anyway, heads-up, quite a bit of oil comes out! I wish I had put a rag under it before I pulled it.

Degreased the underside of the engine in search of oil leaks. No leaks found so far but I'm going to wait overnight. Taking off that metal subframe brace was annoying, and a terrible job when 13 years of road dirt start falling on your face. Wear eye protection kids!

In my experience, that's usually how a battery die - worked perfectly one minute and nothing the next. If you're lucky, you may get some warning (slow crank), IF you pay attention.

I'd say you got your money's worth after 6 years of service.

OEM Headlight assemblies? Did you win the lottery? Last time I looked those were stupid money. :wow:

Perhaps you can point me to a less expensive source?

Looks great with the mods!

I almost needed that under ride protection on the rental car in north central KS this weekend. Had a couple of critters try to commit suicide. The possum wasn't going to be too much of a problem but the 200lb deer would have been!

Can I have your old headlight assemblies! :)

Can I have your job so I can not feel bad about dropping 1k on OEM running boards LOL

No lottery, just got fed up with non-existent lighting at night. I got them from here:

COMPOSITE ASSY | Genuine BMW | 63-11-7-166-817
COMPOSITE ASSY | Genuine BMW | 63-11-7-166-818

Thank you, I'm sort of proud of myself for doing all of that in 3 days.

You'd need a bull bar (51100392916) against a deer, but it's NLA and extremely hard to find. Hunting for it for over a year.

sure, PM with reasonable offer. Will come with 2 D2S bulbs, but not ballast, ignitor and ALC.

Picasa album with pics:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1046690...eat=directlink

I was collecting parts for around a year

I had the opportunity to run into another XoutPost enthusiast as I stopped by the Dunkin Donuts this morning. It was a pleasure meeting TiAgX5 and his silver chariot.

^^Awesome! Glad to hear you guys met up - his is super clean for the miles and I'm sure yours is too

Had a good time talking with Jay, glad I followed his black 4.6is, thought he would be an Xout member seeing the mirror polished Dinan exhaust.

Jay has a super clean '03 too.

I wouldn't replace your battery based on what happened to me. If you're are concerned you might be left stranded have a load test done every 6 months. I have AAA for those mostly imaginary horribles.

Make some free time to paint the aero bumper

Perfect combo ;)

new thermostat time...
 

With the onset of a cold winter, I noticed that our X5 didn't seem to be running as warm as it had over the summer. It heated up as quickly as before but the temp. gauge was struggling to get over the first white mark on most trips. The OBC confirmed that the temp was running about 65 Deg. C on the open road, maybe making 70 Deg. C on a hill but dropping back to 60 Deg. C when heading down the other side. Not normal at all.

One OEM thermostat housing assembly later, it's now running around 88 Deg. C, climbing to 95 Deg. C towing a trailer up a hill (a serious test for it first long run!).

The old assembly...

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...ps12btmsvl.jpg

Getting ready for surgery...

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...ps1yiixcym.jpg

Everything (engine acoustics, intake ducting, EGR pipe, turbo inlet ducts, old thermostat housing etc.) removed and ready for the new assembly...

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...psiczqqdr3.jpg

Another angle...

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...ps4ly8sio2.jpg

Note that the fan is still in place - I managed to do this replacement without pulling the fan or shroud. This is possible on a facelift 3.0d but I understand that it is not possible on the earlier models.

The turbo inlet area was showing a little oily dirt etc. but as I couldn't get at it (this photo was taken blind!) I decided to leave it alone rather than risk getting all that crap into the turbo inlet... :yikes:

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...psymy2fb84.jpg

The turbo inlet duct has a small plastic swirl vane - I was VERY careful with this, as I've heard they can break off and be ingested... :yikes: :yikes:

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...ps9mlc7rm5.jpg

With the new thermostat housing installed, I buttoned it all back up, refilled the coolant and bled the system...

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...psxeuygdlv.jpg

Very pleased the have the `5 running perfectly for the coming winter. ;)

Nce work,well done.
Thanks for sharing:thumbup:

Feels so good when a repair is done and the problem is gone.

Out with the old.....

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...cd87372107.jpg

In with the new...

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...be858b06b9.jpg

I like it.

Found this thread after having mine for a little over a week so I have some catchup posts to post.

5/25: Buy 2006 E53 3.0i. Premium package, cold weather package.
05/26: Change Oil and degrease undercarriage.
05/27: Debadge
05/28: LED license plate lights and side markers
05/29: White 3.5W LED angel eye bulbs (20W bulbs on order)
05/30: Lamin-X fogs yellow
05/31: Washed it
06/01: N/A
06/02: N/A
06/03: Detailed rims. Had front windows tinted
06/04: Installed Aux jack. Write up on super stealth install in progress.

r n r alternator.

On the 4.6is I changed the brake fluid out and replaced the LED lights with regular soft white bulbs. The LED lights is came with are more of an "office light" color and I do not like it. I still need to do the dome and front and rear map lights( the 4.6is has them front and back unlike my 03 5mt and 01 auto that only has them on the front).

Also replaced a tail light bulb.

on a roll...
 

gotta love a long holiday weekend for getting stuff done. :thumbup:

Prompted by this thread started by scarab, I finally got my aux. heater (Webasto) hooked up to run from a remote fob.

This is a super-simple project on an E53 3.0D and it works really well.

Not wanting to spend a fortune on this project, I grabbed this $10 remote unit from ebay...

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...psw5risaha.jpg

315M DC 12V 1 5000S Adjustable Delay Timer Wireless Relay Remote Switch | eBay

I made a loom and connector and mounted the receiver in the relay tray in the right side of the boot (trunk)...

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...ps7xmookqq.jpg

The loom runs down to the battery tray and connects to connector X18830...

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...ps3c2bs1yf.jpg

I set up the remote to be a one-shot with a time of 15 mins. A single push of button A closes a relay in the receiver for 15 mins, activating the aux. heater and running it for 15 mins. A red LED starts flashing on the MID once the aux. heater starts up and if I start the car while the aux. heater is running, it continues until either the coolant temp reached 75 Deg. C (I think) or the 15 minutes time expires.

Once the aux heater has started warming the coolant, it signals the IKHA module with the bus to turn on the cabin fan and direct warm air on the windscreen.

15 mins of running uses about 50cc (0.05l or 1/20th of a litre) of diesel and warms the engine coolant to about 40 Deg. C. The cabin isn't super warm but it's a LOT better than the usual refrigerator temps that normally greet me in the mornings. :cool:

Cannot use this if the car is in a garage, as the fumes from the aux. heater exhaust are dangerous (as is any exhaust gas) but if the car is a garage, you won't need to use this. :confused:

Spent yesterday and today taking the interior apart and running cables from the head unit to the rear in preparation for the new stereo system. I took out both front seats, the back seat, the console, the glovebox, the rear side panels... God, I'm tired! Thanks Crystalworks for the awesome write up you did on your stereo install. It was an enormous help!

What soft white lights did you go with on the X5? Are they still LEDs?. what was the brand?

I've done quite a bit since I last checked in. I'll quickly recap the last 6 months.

New motor mounts.
New Arnott bags all around, system test on compressor and lines.
New front upper and lower control arms w/Powerflex bushings plus ball joints.
New front bumper.
Replaced door handle mechanism on passenger side.
New washer fluid reservoir and pumps.
Installed aftermarket hitch for bike rack.
Eonon 5166 head unit - removed a week later & returned.
Installed Dynavin N6.
Replaced LeMans Blue trim with Woodgrain (loved LeMans, but not in my Imola).

Next up is to replace the base of the driver's side mirror to stop it from flopping around, install an aftermarket SiriusXM tuner somewhere, and to actually put in the tail light wiring mod to quit that stupid error message. I've ground the corrosion off a couple times but it keeps coming back. I can see where the contact is intermittent, may try soldering that spot once before I rewire everything, but I've got the parts, so I should just go ahead and do it and get it over with.

^Been enjoying the updates on the FB forum - how is the Dynavin treating you? I can't wait to get one someday soon, maybe a present for myself lol

It's a huge improvement over the factory unit, that's for sure, but there are some quirks I'm not 100% pleased with, and another thing I need to figure out.

• Just the added functionality and looks are an A+.
  Steering wheel controls work perfectly.
  The sound is decent, but I'm noticing some weird distortion randomly, like a cassette playing over a part that was previously eaten up by a deck.
  I couldn't use my 160GB iPod that I have my entire library on because it's just too much and it really bogs the system down with a library that big. No biggie, though, I just loaded up an old 32GB iPod with a few playlists and most of my favorites and use that and it's quick and responsive.
  Having issues getting it locked into the mount, but I haven't tried too hard, since I should really wait until I have everything figured out first.
  I need to figure out why the backlighting on the buttons isn't functioning.

The big one, though, which just happened this morning on my way in to work, is that the head unit turned on and everything appeared to be functioning properly, but it seemed to not trigger the amp to come on, so there was no sound. I made a stop to drop something off and when I started it back up, it came on and worked just fine.

I don't think this is a problem with the Dynavin, though, as I had the same thing happen with the Eonon that I returned, so it seems to be something in the factory system that isn't functioning correctly, but that's one problem I never had with the factory head unit. Even if my screen was frozen, I still had sound and could control things with the steering wheel controls.

I'm going to email Jeff at J&T later on, he's been super responsive pre-purchase, and I just want to see if he can point me in the right direction on these things. Can't say enough about his customer service. Hopefully these quirks are fixable and he can ID the problems for me.

I thought you were selling your beast, Thrillcat? Glad you didn't.

I had the door dings taken out of the X5 on Friday. Looks 10000% better now. Been using the same dent pro guy for 15 years or so. He's a magician!

I thought about it but couldn't think of anything Id want more that would put me in a better situation. So I've been pushing through and settling all the niggling things.


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The X was in for a vacuum and...

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...2bdc2acaa0.jpg

THIS....
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...97dbd066cb.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Glad it helped you out. Nothing really difficult about the process, just extremely tedious and time consuming. :thumbup:

I'll be doing that again in my 4.8is as soon as I recover from our forced kitchen remodel (house flooded) and can afford another Avin. :(

Woah. The seats have to come out to do that? Good to know, I will plan on using my carpet cleaner to detail that part while it is torn up.

Installed 20W LED angel eye bulbs to replace the 3.5W bulbs I had previously put in to replace my blown stock bulbs.
The bulbs https://imgur.com/MpZO6dq
Daytime comparison https://imgur.com/j555e2o

Hmmm....might have to do this soon on my passenger door handle, which requires an extra good pull to open from the outside.
What causes the issue? Is it corrosion/wear of the carrier mechanism, cable stretch, or a combination of these?
Edit: Also, should I buy the Febi-Bilstein carrier, or the genuine BMW item?
The FB part is less than half the price of the OE carrier.

the carrier broke near the spring part, found out after removed the carrier. for the time being i just got an aftermarket carrier. i ship all my stuff from US or portugal cuz prices here at the stealership are like tickets to go to Mars:rofl::rofl::rofl:... just so you get a pic the fuel filter costs 300USD:wow::wow::wow:

fuel filter ,wow thats nuts

No, it doesn't have to really. I just like to route all my wiring along the factory wiring paths and under the factory clips, carpets, etc. Even go so far as to wrap it in Tesa tape (BMW factory wiring tape) usually. It's an OCD thing that I have realized forces me to take 10x longer to do things than everyone else. Sometimes the result is better... and other times it was just a huge waste of time. :D:rofl:

Tearing into the front driveshaft/Xfer case job today.

Will find the cause of hard acceleration ratchet sound, order parts, correct issue.

the vanos rattle has started...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zAyQBiV5GbI

Looks like I will need to replace the flex discs too.

Anyone ever use the rebuild-able ones from RevShift on an E53? Same price as Genuine BMW part, just needs near perfect driveline alignment.

BMW Race Flex Disc - (LK=96mm/12mm)

Or this? Seems to be designed better for slight driveline mis-alignment.

https://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/view...dproduct=12521

Stay away from the revshift ones. People have bad experiences on the e30 forums. From what I understand people experience bearing failures when running soild ones. Maybe just a correlation but I wouldn't take the risk.

Yeah, I saw on the RevShift website their parts require near perfect driveline alignment, not much flex in the poly bushes.

The rubber bushes in the 2nd link allow for more flex. Downside, double the cost vs Genuine BMW part.

Is there a reason you want to go with a soild one? The stock one isn't exactly failure prone.

Also the ratcheting sound is probably the chain. I got the same one off of eBay from a vendor that cobra sells, but for $70 with 1 day shipping.

It seems BMW has improved the flex disc design post E53, OE are now aluminium and rubber.

https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2500955/...FVc1aQod_k4D4Q

Yeah, I will go with Cobra too. Just ripping it totally down to ensure I have a list of ALL the needed parts before ordering.

I replaced mine with the original ones from BMW. All is good with the OE ones.

Okay so if you have over 100K on your X5 you would be surprised what a difference a new set of engine mounts makes on the X5. I had a few vibration transmission coming into the cabin of the X5 . I had changed the trans mounts last year and today with my brother tackled the engine mounts. I did have the beauty of a lift to do the exchange and glad I did. I did lower the subframe (6 bolts) used one stand to elevate the engine to remove and install the new engine mounts. Used an additional two stands to guide the subframe back in place. Once finished the engine mounts I went ahead and removed the fuel tank skid-plate and replaced the vehicle fuel filter. Good day for the X

I finally uploaded the DIY video for repairing the transfer case actuator with a new gear. I completed the repair in December 2015 and we have had zero issues since!

The BMW service centers will tell you that the entire transfer case needs to be replaced at a cost of over $4,000 simply because they do not replace the actuator motor or the plastic gear inside it.

We also did a drain and fill of the transfer case with fresh BMW fluid after replacing the gear. Hope this helps someone get back on the road!

Sounds like you've been busy with the X Jay.

Now you have me looking at the engine mounts on mine!

Definitely something I have been meaning to do ever since I did the vanos rebuild, timing chain, guides, gaskets etc. It certainly made a difference on the X.

Jay, did you use Weicon anti-seize on the driveshaft spline?

http://agaus.com.au/wp-content/uploa...-Seize-TDS.pdf

Seems this stuff "plays better" with rubber/plastics vs copper base anti-seize (concerned with rubber boot spline seal life).

Bentley states Weicon or equivalent. I'm unable to find any reputable online source stating suitable equiv.

Front DS spline looks great, no need for longer spline mod! :thumbup:

Thank you so much for the DIY video. I'm at 114K+, so I'm sure this will come in handy one of these day. Love your other DIY videos as well - keep up the great work :thumbup:

Yes definitely used an anti-seize agent on the differential spline that went from the transfer case to front diff as recommended by my brother. At his shop he mentioned the number of X5s that come in with the stripped spline and when then ho back with a new one an anti seize agent is used. My transfer case splines are in excellent shape but there was the dry rust dust in the spline and socket. Cleaned her right up and put anti seize agent in it and re-assembled. I don't expect to get a stripped spline in the t-case socket now that we have it set up correctly.

Added some new wheels and tires...and fixed the passenger side door handle while I was at it.

For those wondering on the size/specs.

Wheel: 17x9 5x114.3 User adapter hubs to bolt up
Tires: 265/70/17 with General Grabber AT2


http://i.imgur.com/zFuoDS6h.jpg

I'm usually not much for all terrains or mudders on our Xs, but you, sir, have a beautiful setup!!

Replaced the drivers door handle carrier. Went aftermarket, and like I read on here. Everything works great, but you have to use the original screw for the lock cylinder. The aftermarket screw doesn't work. Door is opening properly now.

Thanks for the kind words!

I get a bit of rubbing on full lock just need to fix that. The ride is actually pretty smooth on the highway. I need to find some trails though and its mainly my everyday / Winter beater to get me to and from.

You're talking the hex head screw right? I replaced mine a couple years ago and it works about 90% of original - sometimes it gets "stuck" up top and I have to hold the handle for a sec to get it to open, drives my wife crazy - maybe I'll try getting an OEM screw and replacing it -

Was this the one you're talking about?

https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/207278_x800.jpg

I just did this last weekend and had to use the stock screw also. If the new screw had a chamfer to it I would be fine but its flat faced and does not allow to the threads to catch.

Which brand did you go with? Febi-Bilstein?

Bought this one
Brand New Left Front Outside Door Handle Carrier for BMW x5 E53 51218243615 | eBay

I pulled the part# from RealOEM and searched it. I found the cheapest one from a US seller. Works great and fits like a glove, all except that one stupid screw, but OEM screw works perfect.

I'm amazed at the condition of the underside (13yrs, 200k miles, no snow/ice/slush/mud). Finding paint marker dates all over the underside (7&8 2003).

The last chassis wash was over 1 yr ago.

that is crazy clean

Looks Great!

Did a gravity bleed on my 4.6is brakes earlier. One nice thing about these 20's and off road tires is I can use my creeper and roll underneath it and open up the bleed screw without taking the wheels off.No jack stands or anything. I am going to change the rear diff fluid just by rolling underneath. Space is a bit tight, but very manageable.

Is that a new driveshaft on the X5? it looks pretty clean for an underneath item.:D

That driveshaft is the original.

Edit; The thought arose that the shaft may have been replaced without it being in service history pre-ownership by me, found the manufacture date and took pic, 26.06.03 (6-26-03). Around 6 weeks prior to truck build date.

:iagree:

And you get a few more inches if you raise the Air suspension too before creeping down there.

soon I will be doing the power steering pump, slight play in the shaft, starting to make a rattle noise only at idol, goes away as soon as you press on the gas, had my steho scope to check it out.

Performed an oil change and tightened all the bolts around the reinforcement plate in hopes of solving the steering knock.

Texas - it does an underbody of a vehicle good! Wow, looking amazing TiAg!

Ordered the parts for front suspension overhaul. The only fail is the bushings in the thrust arms/tension struts, but on inspection, and reaching 150k miles, I decided to do the full 10 part replacement kit from FCPEuro, using Meyle HD parts: tension struts [sometimes called thrust arms], lower control arms, sway bar links, tie rod assemblies [inner and outer, with replacement boots]. I considered, but held off, doing the struts; figure I'll do them in the Fall when I revisit the rear suspension and have decided whether to move up to the Bilstein HD B6/4600 equipment. I'm doing the front sway bar bushings while I'm in there, though the sway bar and bushings appear in good condition. I have prepared an outline from the various instructions and videos, but am cogitating on what order to follow in deconstructing and reassembling each side. I have the tools assembled, and will give the cheap Harbor Freight 3/4" ball joint tool a try. Alignment and Report to follow when done!

No doubt!

Getting a good look at the underside has convince me to keep this vehicle up and running strong, even if a massive repair rears its ugly head (ZF reman trans or total engine rebuild/replacement).

Last week dipped my rims, tinted windows, and installed auxiliary input. Want to do more but want opinions/ideas. Let me know what you guys think. https://i.imgur.com/FtK0wZ0.jpg

That's beautiful.

Put on my OEM Style 87 wearing new Vredestein Ultrac Vorti.:thumbup:
87's > 168's IMO

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...ps8v1idiyu.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...psdhpbfabo.jpg

How do you like the Vred UVs?

So far I like them! I only have about 200 miles on them so far. BTW - I have followed your posts. Thank you for sharing your impressions!! There really is not that much info out there on them. I got mine from a speed shop specializing in Camaros and Jeeps.

To me they seem quite sticky and the ride is nice. Price was good and the view from the rear makes them seem quite wide. Can't really comment on performance yet. I'll circle back once I break them in and see what they can do.

Sounds like you have a big job ahead of you! May I suggest getting the better ball joint tool on Amazon, I used this in my E39: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdoIc2-tqkU

I had 2 harbor freight ones and both snapped from the stress.

E53 Front Bumper Removal (Facelift Version)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QkPxUSSa0L8

Man these tires look so right on the 87s. I 've got a set coming for my 4.6is. They sit so square and perfect on the rims. Can't wait to add mine to the club.

BabyCap are you running 9.5 inch wide 87s all the way around on the X5? What tire size did you choose when selecting fitment for your vehicle?

Just completed the headlight restoration:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DD0YKYTb9IQ

Got tired of my INPA laptop and went to get a scan with a proper machine.... Sure thing there was a code P0705 that I couldn't find before

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...adb84a39fb.jpg

I could only start the car in N because the switch was loose....


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^I want an Autologic... :(

Replaced my rear ride height sensor... Deleted the error, and all is right with the world once again...

Sent from my VS880PP using Tapatalk

+2
I haven't checked prices of Autologic here, how much are they going for in the US??


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Cheapest I've seen for a decent used one is ~$2500 I believe. Haven't looked in a long time though. New will cost as much as an e53 X5 if memory serves. Prices are really all over the place depending on latest update, condition, etc.

Engine Oil
Oil Filter
New Battery

(coming, replacement DRL bulbs and LED Halo)

Replaced my broken rear right window regulator

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Hi. These are a staggered OEM set. 9.5 front and 10.5 rear. I went with the OEM tire sizes of 275/40/20 and 315/35/20. Got them for $1,040.00.

Cleaned the inside of the transfer case and gave it a new necklace.

To funny.

I'm looking at the EXACT same thing in my garage this morning!

If you are doing the bearing kit be careful putting in the small needle bearing. Daughters bf bent it.

You can't see it but the ring gear bearing has a clip on it also so don't try to press or hammer it out.

Yeah, I saw that clip when researching the job. All the bearings/seals look good.

I finally got around to doing a mod that I've been wanting to do since I first got the ride, few years ago.
After the installation of the Angel Eyes, I fell in love with the suv again. I didn't think I could like the suv more than I did already. This mod made it look newer, cleaner and more sophisticated! And at night, it looks even better!

I'd like to personally thank RickyBobby for helping me understand and guide me through this. Much respect.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...aa9c7e3727.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...2363585c9e.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...7cde05c9fc.jpg

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Hey man - looks great and I'm so glad I was able to help! Little things like this make your X5 feel "new" again and you can fall in love again! Enjoy and looks awesome!

Wow that transfer case job does not look fun!

Here's the oil filter housing gasket I just completed on our 3.0i X5

Rim colour change
 

Got tired of the silver rims on my E53 so I got some Bronze paint and changed the inner part of the rims. Looks better and even feels new to look at for a change.;)

Air compressor install
 

Installed a 12v compressor in the engine bay to aid for tyre failures.

Really.

All the teardown/reassemble work of a transmission swap. No fun!

Just did front rotors and pads. I also replaced the left front caliper as it was seized due to a rusty piston. Hopefully no more front end shimmy!

Wow!

What is the torque of the rear output shaft flange nut on the transfer case?

There is ZERO rust on this item on my X, yet my Bosch 18v impact wrench won't budge it.

Just went out and got an 800 ft/lb GORILLA twin hammer impact wrench!!!

Needs 4 cfm/min @ 90 psi (the pancake in the garage is "no bueno"). Had to get a real air supply, 150psi/5 cfm @ 90psi.

About $500 to remove a nut SUCKS!!!!

I doubt this nut will resist my persuasive ways now.

I just used a breaker bar

What did you use to hold the flange?

I put the car in gear and had someone hold the brakes. I loosened the flange before removing the tcase.

I should have done that!

I did it on the workbench.

That twin hammer/800 ft/lb tool did the trick running @ 40psi. It's a monster, but smooth as butter.

Hey, now you have a beast impact so really it all worked out for the best.

So true.

I really needed to upgrade the compressor too, the 30yr old pancake was "well worn"! :rofl:

Anyone need a Jesus bolt removed?

I even modified one of the Rigid compressors 3 output fitting to high flow (large ID), HF fitting for tool, and got a new 50ft hose with HF fittings.

Arg Arg Arg, more power!

So which one are you?

Tim or Al...?:D

I would have to say Tim.

I used the 700hp Viper in the sig pic as my DD for 8yrs. Al would NEVER do that.

Anyone seen a chain so worn it can be pushed to the housing?

I guess this is what lots of towing and high speed runs to the mid-130mph range can do.

Did a fluid swap around 100k miles ago.

James for reference purposes please post pictures of the same shot but with the new t-case chain in place so that everyone can see the difference in slack. Thanks

Will do Jay. :thumbup:

Much appreciated. James did you just decide to do a T-case rebuild or did you have signs of failure that told you it was time? Curious. I assume sometime in the future I'll have to to do the same for piece of mind.

Around 6 months ago I had the rapid toc-toc-toc during WOT acceleration. It began doing it during moderate acceleration over the last few weeks.

The new chain.....

just a question there is a link in the chain that is removable?

Oh yeah huge difference!!!!!

No.

Both gears need to be removed for chain swap.

That's a blue link to identify the chain as the correct chain for the TC.

makes sense now

Replaced the two thrust arms with my rebuilt thrust arms with polyurethane bushings. Brought a couple of use thrust arms from fellow xoutposter Garret Fell when he did his thrust arms. Removed the old bushings and installed the new polyurethane bushing. Rebuilt thrust arms went in without a hitch, and by rebuilding a set of thrust arms beforehand, I didn't need to fart around with also rebuilding the thrust arm that day.

Nice!

Is that compressor one of the shreikingly loud ones (like mine)? I'd like a smaller footprint compressor, but I want one that doesn't require hearing protection when I use it. I already have tinnitus and it sucks -- don't need to make it worse.

It's loud, no doubt.

The advantage of this Rigid compressor is the ability to use as a surge supply.

My garage was over 90deg F while I was working, I set-up the top unit
in the laundry room (70deg air), and ran a hose to the lower unit I was working off in the garage.

No noise/added heat in garage, and compressor is drawing cool air to compress. Win/win.

Congrats on your mods:thumbup:
Sometimes its the simple things that make a big difference.
Love the black fog light covers that match the black grill perfectly.
Together with your headlight mod,you just rejuvenated your X5 by 10 years:D.

Thought ,I was done with my own mods,but I am liking your fog light covers:beerchug:

Always pleased to hear that one member is extremely helpful to another and in the case of Jay (Ricky Bobby) ,its members like him that give continuation to make Xoutpost what its been ,for the last 11 years
:thumbup:

Been on vacation all week driving a rented Sonata. What a POS. Dreamt about driving my X5 last night. Just a few more hours and I'll be behind the wheel.


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Not worrying about the X breaking down on vacation Priceless.
:D

Thank you, man! :thumbup: Really appreciate that.
And thanks for noticing the black fog light covers. It's the small mods that make such a huge difference! I was really happy with that.

haha, try out the black fog light covers for sure! :beerchug:

and yeah for sure, he's (Ricky Bobby) has been much help for me.
It's the small things that we do to our cars that make the biggest difference!

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...621_181002.jpgMade arrangements to pickup my new to me 2005 4.8is tomorrow!

I think I'd rather push the X5 with a chance of driving it later than be forced to drive a fricken Hyundai !! ;)

I know but I wanted to get a full week in San Francisco and didn't want to drive 5 of us 19 hours each way.

I did see another Imola 4.8is in the city (California St near the Sunset I believe) the other day though. Anyone on here?


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Cleaned and re-oiled the K&N. Always interesting to see what debris is sitting in the bottom of the airbox. Found pigeon feathers this time!

2002 X5 3.0 304,900 miles
2014 428i 19,400 miles

2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles

1970 Firebird - Under restoration

X is back on the road. TC chain fixed the toc-toc-toc under acceleration.

Did a double fill (1qt) because I don't have a parts washer and the case was still a little dirty when re-assembled.

I will do a 20 mile hwy drive today (to clean the case), drain, the fill to correct level, drive around one tank of fuel, drain, final fill.

Did a diff drain fill while it was on the jackstands, went with Royal Purple 75-90 Syn.

I'm a fan of Royal Purple. Why did you choose Royal Purple rather than more commonly use/recommended brands out there?

What was in front of the grille, the rest of the pigeon????
:bustingup

A few Viper Club members who track their cars (and monitor diff lube temps) have found the RP actually drops diff temp around 20deg F on hot track days (vs Mobil 1 75-90 syn GL5).

My radiator finally failed. I midtown NYC. Slow leak. Filled it up with water, and went to my buddies shop. Made it no issues. Takes about an hour in total between me and mechanic. Him on the ground, me on top. Fairly straight forward job. Took 3 hours to get the radiator delivered, so that was a huge pain in the ass.

I let the X5 haul two 6' x 3' x 1' bookcases to the Goodwill drop off point. It did a good job so I filled it up with gas.

No pigeon, but I did have a dead grackle in the fog lamp one time! :yikes: Nasty birds.

2002 5x 3.0 305,200 miles
2014 428i 19,500 miles

2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles

1970 Firebird Under restoration

Replaced laser in the MKIV navigation computer
 

Been dealing with read error messages, random reboots, random freezes and slow boot-up time since I purchased the X5 last winter. With the warmer weather the issues have gotten even worse.

Bit the bullet and tore into my MKIV navigation computer to replace the laser assembly. Cannot believe how quick this unit now boots up and displays a map seconds after starting the engine.

Followed these instructions:
http://www.xoutpost.com/articles/all-bmw/navigation/53616-diy-changing-laser-unit-mk4-sat-nav-unit.html


Bought the laser assembly from China eBay seller. Search on eBay for SF-HD4 to see all the ones available.
My new cable had a curve in it but worked fine.
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/CaUAAO...mVI/s-l500.jpg

Would recommend straight cable which fits better:
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/LigAAM...f9w/s-l500.jpg

Replace the rubber trim over the front windshield. After 16 years of uv on the rubber, the rubber has failed and started to crack and crumble and fall apart. I brought the rubber trim from ECSTuning and they packaged it in a large box with a lot of bubble wraps and it arrived in perfect condition. Would hate to install a rubber trim if the seller had coiled it up and stuck it in a padded envelope.

Pulled off the oil filter housing to replace the gasket. Got it all out in under 1.5 hours, which I was pretty happy with, especially after leaving a few sockets and wrenches at work and improvising with less than ideal ratchet sizes. Left it apart for the night as I didn't want to tackle too much, and I want my better ratchets and sockets for installation.

^ doing the ofhg your self isn`t a hard job, just time consuming for a 5.00 part. imagine getting a shop to do it

I know that. I've done one before on my 318ti. Just stating that <1.5 hrs was pretty quick for me, as I think I'm close to book time. Putting everything back together should take me another 45 minutes, making this a ~2 hour job.

Replaced a no name cabin filter with a Mann charcoal filter and replaced the front passenger exterior door handle carrier.

Changed all 4 rotors and brake pads. Adjusted the rear drum brake also. 94K and was running on original rotors. Went with Akebono and curious to see how much less dust there is. Could not believe the rotors were soooo easy to change. 1 set screw and a few pounds with a rubber hammer. bam!

Had windshield number 4 installed. Let's see if I can escape Dallas area road construction damage for more than a year this time.

2002 X5 3.0 305,400 miles
2014 428i 19,700 miles

2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles

1970 Firebird - Under restoration

I had a rock hit my windshield recently. Can't seem to get one that is bad enough that the insurance company would take care of a replacement. It's one of those that the guy at the carwash can fix.

16!? I can barley make it 3 :bustingup

How'd you install it or did you have a new windshield to go in at the same time?

Mine is crumbling pretty well right now and I'd like to fix it too.

Thanks! :thumbup:

^Pry it out very carefully using small trim tool and needlenose pliers, then clean the channel real well and lube it up and slide the new one in - its held in place by a pressure fit and an adhesive strip on the bottom

So a plastic trim tool to pry it out, then goo gone the old adhesive out, the press a new one in?

Everything except the "pry it out very carefully" is within my abilities...I might have to enlist the help of my wife. :cool:

Installed the backup camera for my new Eonon deck. I haven't installed the deck yet, or ran the extension harness, but I knew installing the camera would be the hardest/longest part. I just have the wire set in the spare tire well to run with the rest of the harness.

This one gives good tips - pretty much how I did it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rCNxg0D2d7g

Cleaned up the running boards because there were some rust spots on it, and again, Ricky Bobby pulls through!
He suggested I use any of Sonax Full Effect Wheel Cleaner, Adam's Wheel Cleaner, or CarPro IronX. I went Sonax. And it worked like a charm!
They're so much cleaner!
Respects to RB once again :thumbup:
Here are some of the before, during, and after shots.
still some minor dirty imperfections, not a big issue, but at least no rust spots!
https://i.imgur.com/FSGIrOi.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/u152HST.jpghttps://i.imgur.com/eeSsxZr.jpg

Looks great!

I haven't used the Sonax cleaner yet, but have used the CarPro Iron X as well as Americana Ameririd which are all the same type of cleaner and love them both! They are great for a lot of things like this as well as decontaminating paint from nasty imbedded brake dust that clay doesn't always get without nasty marring.

Looking phenomenal and glad to help! Now use some very mild metal polish and they should polish right up if you need - I've also heard of guys protecting the finish by wiping them periodically with WD-40 to be honest.

thanks! I spoke to the guy where I bought the Sonax from, and asked about IronX; they didn't carry but he said that they were essentially the same, but IronX is slightly stronger.


ah, yes that was my next step, metal polish. I want to buff it out to make all smooth and clean look.
Just WD-40? wipe with cloth?

Yeah I would polish with like a metal polish like Eagle One, something like that.

The WD40 thing is just a rumor I heard, after polishing - I guess the premise is just to wipe the aluminum down with it after you've polished it so it can penetrate the metal a bit and inhibit any corrosion

tyvm! :thumb:

I'll do this later on this year. X5 is heading to Green Valley, AZ this weekend to surprise (gently) my mom for her 89th birthday!

Well, this afternoon I saved my X5 from being wadded up by some jackass in a white, E92 (I think) 328? That passed me on the narrow shoulder, doing about 95mph southbound on the I-19 just south of the I-10 split. Not afraid to admit it scared the crap out of me as I saw something out of the corner of my eye in my passenger side mirror, turned to get a look and YOWZA! Had no place to go as I had someone on my right so I inched over towards the dividing line and hoped for the best. Not sure what that was all about but I'd like to smack the idiot around a while. No wonder BMW drivers have a bad reputation. :(

Plenty of videos on Youtube on installing it, but the trick is to either use a little silicone spray or dish washing liquid on the rubber trim before installing it so that when you go to insert the trim back onto the windshield it will just slide on.

About 10 minutes to remove and clean the old trim off the windshield and body and another 10 minutes to put it back on.

I restored the headlights on the X5, did this Saturday afternoon in the searing heat & humidity. Sorry for the cruddy cell pics

^Looks awesome!

What did you use to restore the headlights?

Headlight restoration is the best Asthetic bang for the buck on any e53 X5. It just takes your time and patience wet sanding the lens. I did 600,800,1000,2000 wet sand and then buffed off using 3M compound and received fabulous results. Then sealed with a protector . It's all in the preparation getting the great results.

Need to seal it or put a clear film on. Or else you would be doing it again soon.
This is my iS with 3M clear film. It's been a couple years since.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps7690xauf.png

Thanks guys, I used a 3m kit with 500, 800, 1000 and wet sanded with 2000. Never done it before and I took my time so as to not mess it up. I was running late so I just put a good amount of wax for now, I was thinking of spraying them with acrylic? What have you guys found to be the best sealant?

Wow! that looks so good!!

If you dont want to do it again, only sand to about 800 and then clear them, it will give the clear something to bight into.

a lot of people us USC spraymax 2K clear, it has a high UV protection in it. its a 2 part spraycan so you only have like 24hrs to use it once you puncture the can.

most of the other stuff is just a temp sealer that wont last 6months or overpriced junk marketed just for headlights so its big money

I have had great luck in the past, do a quick search and a little reading.

Thanks will do...

Yes, I did mine a couple of years ago using the 3M kit for electric drill then sealed them. Still look like day I completed them.

Thanks, my headlight were cloudy and were making the truck look sad. Definitely a needed improvement. I think my next step will be upgrading the angel eyes lightbulb to something brighter and matching foglight bulbs.

I was on my way back from OK to CO, and the front diff decided to die on me.... So I had to tow it back home after my sister pic is up. Ended up towing it for a total of 256miles back. The Black X5 handle it smoothly.

Thanks!

Seat/memory module replacemant
 

After I had lent out my E53 to a friend which is 2 meters tall the seat wouldn't move again. I could only move it a millimeter at a time for every fifth time I moved the switch.

Now I decided to fix it, so I got a new seat/memory module for about 150 usd and now it works again :)

The tricky part was to remove the panel in front of the module. First picture shows the panel and where the front connection is, the other one I'm a bit unsure of but should be located about where the arrow is. I didn't have to bother about that one since it was already broken :P

Second picture shows that there is also a connection on the bottom of the panel, that one was easy to find.

Also there was a T20 torx in the back end of the panel.

Brian what did you seal your headlights with when you restored your?.

Installed silicone key skins...

The skins once on are a bit loose. I wish they were like spandex and super tight to the black plastic key, but they are not so.

Still fun to make an old key look new and I can tel my spares and daily used key apart now and I can start swapping them when I feel like a different color then all keys get more usage/charge time.

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