I put it on about a week ago.

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Ha, now that's funny - here's mine after working on the front end! :rofl:

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...ps0n8pfquy.jpg

I found a replacement handle last night on eBay:

Link Handle #480-29 MM 10-1/2" Hammer Handle by Link Handle Div Of Seymour | eBay

http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/pgsAAO...F9/s-l1600.jpg

:thumbup:

Mike

Yeah, my replacement BFH has a fiberglass handle now!

I have a pickle fork like that too! It's a great joint buster!

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

Mike

I broke lots of hammers in my early DIY years, then remembered my Dad telling me to work smarter, not harder.

With the compressor and air tools in the garage (air chisel included), got the pickle forks for this work......

https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.co...FQYtaQodtjsGJQ

These cost no more then a good hammer, and make DIYs a breeze.

@crystal: NICE BFH! I have a similar one somewhere I have to locate in my tools.


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Good deal. Yeah the pickle fork has been ground down in the front for clearance on bmw ball joints and you can see how much it's gotten used by the mushrooming at the back of it. :D It made VERY quick work of the lower control arms on the front end the other day. I had both sides done, along with the sway bar end links, in a little over an hour. I would hammer the fork in and then jack up the handle with the floor jack (leave the nut on the top of the threads of ball joint). Would pop out easily no fuss, no muss.

Now that I think about it though the hammer might be a Harbor Freight jobbie. :thumbup:

[QUOTE=crystalworks;1109828] you can see how much it's gotten used by the mushrooming at the back of it. /QUOTE]

Time to grind that mushroom down. Pieces breaking off do nasty things to your eyes!

2002 X5 3.0 323,400 miles
2014 428i 27,300 miles

2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles

1970 Firebird - Under restoration

Okay I just finished installing the switchbacks that you recommended in my 2003 X5 4.6is and funny thing is the switchback works as its listed where turn signal is in amber and the park light is white. These leds are bright which is way better than the silver coated incandescent bulbs that bimmian sells. Crystalworks thanks for the recommendation. Oh by the way didn't have to use load resistors on these led bulbs also.

Completed OEM tow hitch kit install on 4.8iS. Now need to test trailer module.



Garage:
E53 4.4i M62 born 2003-03-04 (SOLD)
E53 4.8iS N62s born 2006-03-16
E90 325i N52 born 2006-03-28
F30 328i N20 born 2012-09-06

Put 25 mm spacers on the rears, the wheels perfectly aligned to the sides of the car.. did the missing pixels diy, what a pain in the neck.. but works perfect now. Installed window weather guards, and picked up a set of oem 18s for a winter setup..

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No problem. They are really bright aren't they?! I just hope they last... time will tell. Always hard to get a REAL idea of quality and longevity from Amazon reviews.

Your white function works? Mine is amber on parking lights and signal. Does your bulb socket look like this with only 2 contact pins?

http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/o...8_173341-1.jpg

Yeah my socket looks like yours. I was looking a little closer on the switch back led bulb and mine has two amber and two white leds on each panel and then in the projector portion there is the same two amber and two white leds. I noticed that the same company makes another 3157 LED bulb that looks like the swicthback but it has 4 amber leds on each panel as opposed to the white and amber combination. By any chance did they furnish you with an all amber led unit?

No, mine has 2 chips of each color on each circuit board... :dunno:

Edit: How is yours coded? Parking lights, etc. Wonder if I should try flipping the bulbs, though I could have sworn I did try that.

Calling all those with air suspension knowledge! Please give me a hand with this air suspension mystery:

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...lowing-up.html

Stupid O-ring in the compressor went south.... now I have to hustle to fix that leak.... is there a way to remove the tube in the Ac compressor without lower the front axle?!


- Gil -

Just swap wiper purchased from Ali...price was about 7e! Minus is that it is shorter!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f8fa452e7e.jpg

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ec41a806c3.jpg

Put on the new wheels I picked up for a song. Original invoice of $3600 for tires and wheels. Won an eBay auction for $202.50. It cost more to ship. I did save $100 on shipping by using ShipNEX rather than FedEx directly. Definitely use them if you have to send wheels or other heavy auto parts. They are a shipping reseller. They use fedex but have deep discounts so they can apparently still make a profit while charging far less than counter rates.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...47b4f3d1ef.jpg


Watch the stop-motion video here.


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I believe I have standard coding so I am not sure what gives. I was out driving in the rain today and I must admit I like the switch back leds.

Tyre sizes are the same like previous?

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No switched from stock 235 to sport 255. Keeping the 235s for winter. They really dig down in the snow



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You should pass correction!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a4852f00c4.jpg

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Car had alignment last year after destroying a pair of tires through both steel belts. The tires I kid removed with 8,000 miles show no uneven wear so it appears to be good


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It is good if you pass alignment each time you change size of tyres...it is not necessary just technical suggestion

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I have to change some bushings and a bearing. I'll get the alignment checked after that for sure.

Interesting point: the new wheel centerline is further outward and the bad bearing is noticeably less loud because the worn out race is no longer holding the weight of that corner of the truck.


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changed the front pads which had plenty of meat but were squealing like a stuck pig.

The Brembos seem to be the cure so far...let's see what the week's commute will bring.

oh p.s F**k Pagid!!...never again

Went to bimmerfest. Best 4.8is there, because it was THE ONLY one there!

Why no X5 love on the wrong coast? :( X5's are everywhere in the east coast show.

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/a...pskdcc49lm.jpg

I am not sure what the deal is then. I suppose I can try turning the bulbs the other way round and see if that makes a difference. But I can't think of a reason it would... :dunno: I'll also check my coding to see what is turned on or off.

I installed a set of these to complete my LED signal conversion. The LED and reflector quality on them is on point. VERY visible and directional unlike most cheap LED sidemarkers. I believe these are the same ones for sale by Bimmian and Jlevi but at half the cost.

The only downside to these is the metal spring that pressure fits into the fender to hold it in place. They are cheaply pressure-fit inserted with no catch into the LED housing so as soon as some pressure is put on during installation they pop right out and into your fender. :rolleyes: An hours worth of fishing down in there with a magnet later including 3 failed install attempts (including supergluing the springs in place) I said F this and cut the OEM spring catches out of the OEM housings. They include a pin that catches onto a slit in the housing to prevent it from coming out of the slot. I drilled a small hole to mimic this and put the OEM springs in with a satisfying "click" as the little pin caught in the slit. No more problems after that. :thumbup:

http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/B28AAO...w-/s-l1600.jpg

[QUOTE=crystalworks;1110400]I am not sure what the deal is then. I suppose I can try turning the bulbs the other way round and see if that makes a difference. But I can't think of a reason it would... :dunno: I'll also check my coding to see what is turned on or off.

I installed a set of these to complete my LED signal conversion. The LED and reflector quality on them is on point. VERY visible and directional unlike most cheap LED sidemarkers. I believe these are the same ones for sale by Bimmian and Jlevi but at half the cost.

The only downside to these is the metal spring that pressure fits into the fender to hold it in place. They are cheaply pressure-fit inserted with no catch into the LED housing so as soon as some pressure is put on during installation they pop right out and into your fender. :rolleyes: An hours worth of fishing down in there with a magnet later including 3 failed install attempts (including supergluing the springs in place) I said F this and cut the OEM spring catches out of the OEM housings. They include a pin that catches onto a slit in the housing to prevent it from coming out of the slot. I drilled a small hole to mimic this and put the OEM springs in with a satisfying "click" as the little pin caught in the slit. No more problems after that. :thumbup:

Yeah I got the same ones from Bimmian last year. I would agree with you that the lighting is great but the quality of the spring to stay in place needs some work. One thing i found with these side lights was that I was getting condensation/water on the inside of the lens. Drove me nuts. So I dried out the water droplets inside the lens and place a thin layer of superglue on the edge of the lens supposedly where it comes together on the base. This solved the water from getting in. You will know if you have this problem after the 2nd or 3rd vehicle wash or rainshower the droplets on the inside my form. At least it can be fixed and made better with a little TLC.

Great stance Daniel!

We had torrential rains yesterday. Everything is good so far. I did re-use the OEM gaskets though rather than the ones they provided as they felt a little lower in quality.

Threw on a set of supersports, 295/35/20 front, 325/30/20 rear with 25mm spacers. Thread is flush with the body, fromt and back..

This thing grips like crazy and has a much sharper turn in, ride is a bit softer and less harsh over pavement cracks.. tends to follow the road grooves a bit more though.

Btw: load rating works just fine: stock is 102f and 109r and these are 105f and 109r.. so zero issues..
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6d69c25ff2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...22464d8c1d.jpg

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Looks fantastic! I am looking into spacers for my X5 as well but not sure if I want to go 20mm or 25mm. Which spacer brand did you use and where did you get them? :thumbup:

Looks really great.



Garage:
E53 4.4i M62 born 2003-03-04 (SOLD)
E53 4.8iS N62s born 2006-03-16
E90 325i N52 born 2006-03-28
F30 328i N20 born 2012-09-06

Went with these, came with longer bolts, and seem to have zero vibration at speeds exceeding the local speed limits.. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b2e28d3671.jpg

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Thanks bunches. I'm blushing..

Have the same rubber on the E55, stock sizes. Best summer tire on the market..https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c0ad372768.jpg

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Looks great. :thumbup:

Very similar to my setup but I'm running aftermarket wheels with different offsets so only went with a 15mm spacer. End result in the rear is +9mm. Front are 285/40/20 and rears 325/35/20.

After 118,000 miles I had first problem with a window. Window clip on driver's side was bad but decided it would be a good idea to replace the clips and the regulator while I was in there.

Finally got my 4.8iS bumper back from the body shop and got the flares and bumper installed. Ready for some spacers to get the tire/flare spacing just right. Is there a hubcentric 20mm spacer that is preferred or are they all the same?

I used H&R spacers. They are hub-centric and available up to 30mm, maybe more.
These bolt to the truck then the wheels bolt to them. Much safer.

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Thanks for the reply. What size did you go with and where did you get the H&R spacers?

EDIT I ordered H&R 25mm DRA Series spacers from ECS Tuning. Should have them by Friday. Thanks again for the advice zukgod1. :thumbup:

Either Amazon or eBay.
I'm running 20mm on the rear. Nothing in the front.
Either Amazon or eBay.
I'm running 20mm on the rear. Nothing in the front.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...519fef7b79.jpg

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Those wheels and tires look so dope!

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Thanks..

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...774fa41534.jpg

The X decided to not start at all.... no codes being thrown.... trying to figure it out


- Gil -

Can you hear the fuel lines open up in position 2? Fuel pump may have gone out?

Happened to me on my M5 last summer, no codes

Yes I hear, it cranks and feels like the I'm holding the key even after the car starts, it sounds like "issing"


- Gil -

Love this blue colour ;)

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Installed the factory air tube from a 2001 4.4i onto my 2005 4.4i (air tube on a 2004-2006 is shaped differently, hence why I used an older models flexible tube) and bent it to match up with the small hole in side of Dinan Air Intake box/shield to allow more air flow into Dinan box from factory air intake. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0d8f4c68cb.jpg

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Ok so far, start went kaput, fuel pump also stopped working.... this is a spending galore week for the X.... I'm done for today[emoji19][emoji19]


- Gil -

Fuel pump very easy diy. Great pump available for $120 amazon prime.


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Valve stem seals and other tidbits...
 

Replaced the valve stem seals in my 2005 X5 with an N62.
What a pain in the arse that job was but truck is now smoke free!

Reset DME (engine computer) adaptions as I put in new spark plugs (NGK BKR6EGP #7092) due to previous ones being oil fouled from the valve stem seals and causing misfires.

Transmission shifts when engine was cold were clunky even after fluid and filter replacement so I reset the adaptions today using the BMW Rheingold software with an eBay K+DCAN adapter (had to short terminals 7-8 for the 2 k-line buses) and now shifts like new; smooth and silky.

Replaced the transfer case oil awhile ago but never got around to resetting its adaptions due to group consensus saying I needed to use the ancient BMW DIS/GT1 service software but I dug around Rheingold today and found the ability to reset the VTG adaptions.

Truck feels like new now!:2thumbs:

A/C is not working: RR Auxiliary Fan (expensive part!) but it is all good.
Scan reported sign(s) of heater valve component failure - For now I am surviving with AC set to the 3 blue dots. Warm air if it set to either 2 blue dots or 1 blue dot.

I just replaced my heater valve, I kept having my right side vents blow warm air, which is unacceptable in Arizona where it's 100º+ for several months of the year. It was a very easy DIY and I did it while half-asleep at midnight last night. Problem solved, now the AC blows cold from all vents.

Not so easy an R&R on an e36... had to do one of those recently. Stupid thing is stuck behind the intake manifold on the firewall. :rolleyes:

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

Replaced the left rear wheel bearing on wife's copy of our two X5s. DIY Rear Wheel Bearing Remove & Replace

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/106447-awr-fix-rear-wheel-bearing-remove-replace.html


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Replaced my aux fan, start to finish inside of 2 hours. Feels great to use my AC in traffic again.

Just replace the Nav screen with a brand new sharp screen from ebay

I've had an intermittent miss for several weeks. No codes. Had done all the basic troubleshooting stuff but hard to find something when it isn't happening. Recently it started missing more frequently but still no codes. Used software to monitor engine but didn't see anything conclusive though with cutouts open it became clear it was only on one bank. I had already check for vacuum leak with propane and brake cleaner but found nothing. I had another MAF so swapped that out and it made no difference. Didn't seem like it was a plug issues so I decided rather than check them I would make a smoke test machine and check for vacuum leak again. It was easy to see the vacuum leak with smoke tester. One of those never should happen things. One of the valve cover bolts had backed off. I tightened the bolt and vacuum leak is gone.

It ran terrible at first, stalling and even went into engine failsafe a couple of times. Took about half an hour for engine to figure out leak was gone and make the adjustments. Held RPMs at 3000 twice for a couple minutes. Let it idle for ten minutes with air on. Let it idle for 10 minutes with air off. Revved it several times to different RPMs and let it free fall to idle. Runs fine now.

Put the finishing touches on my charge lead. Now that winter is biting hard I'm using the Webasto for 15 mins each morning (car not running) which is pretty hard on the battery. It copes with three or four days of this so I trickle-charge it overnight a couple of times a week, just to keep it in good condition.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...psiy3b7jjb.jpg

You have -20?

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Do you mean -20 Deg.C.? Heck no - or at least, not here on the coast. It can get that low a hundred kicks inland from here though.

Around here we get down to 0 Deg.C often and sometimes a bit lower. I like to use the Telestart remote if it's much below 5 Deg.C as its easier on the engine and turbo, starting from slightly warmer than dead cold. 15 minutes of running with the Webasto Thermotop gets the KTEMP up to about 30 Deg.C or so. And the cabin is getting toasty too! :thumbup:

And of course the Webasto runs again automatically when I start the engine and the outside temp is 5.5 Deg.C. or lower, to speed up the warmup.

The battery is probably ok with this use but why risk it? ;)

After months of putting it off, today I finally replaced my bumper mesh.

I had purchased some alloy mesh and was going to replace the broken mesh with the alloy but a couple of months ago I spotted a set of OEM mesh inserts on eBay (from a seller in Riga, Latvia) for a very good price, so I ordered them.

Today I finally pulled the bumper and replaced them.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...psgmmskklu.jpg

I now have a set of the (old) clips and frames from which to figure out a more solid replacement option, should I ever need to replace them again. Time to get busy with a dremel tool and remove the broken mesh from the frames.

The car looks MUCH better with no "missing teeth". :D

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...psauemkja7.jpg

:rofl: :bustingup :thumbup:

I need to do the same. What knocks the teeth out in the first place? I'm planning to use some expanded metal screen when I fix mine so the teeth stay in.


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Usually caused by what the aviation industry would call "FOD" (foreign object damage). In my case, small birds and road debris.

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

My X came pre tooth holes. I guess a likely candidate is a rock from a truck in front of you. I just never had it happen to me yet my truck has 4/5 missing teeth

I had to invent a way to take a dent out of a Prius bumper from a rabbit. It inverted and I needed to heat the thing up to about 300°F. I put a Dutch oven filled with sand into a large wood boiler fire box and poured the sand into the inside of the bumper cover. It quickly turned into taffy consistency and the inverted dent popped right out. It was rainy when I did this so I held the bumper cover in the rain once shaped to cool it off.

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And since I was in the garage....

I worked on an item that has bugged me for a while - a very slight clunk/clonk in the steering column. While I know this is likely to be the double-joint in the lower shaft, surely it's worth eliminating all other options first.

I had already re- torqued the double joint clamp bolts - no joy. Today I checked the upper clamp joint nut and bolt (#10 & #11 below) and found them rather loose. This is the clamp nut and bolt immediately below the steering angle sensor on the steering shaft.

https://www.parts.com/media/images/o.../1/1955275.gif

Tightened them up and on the first drive the clunk/clonk seemed to be gone. Time will tell....

:popcorn:

Follow up if success in the end. I can't stand clicks and rattles


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I reinstalled my "AC Schnitzer" spoiler (taiwanese repro) using Betalink K1. The tape install failed after 4 months. The Betalink has cured and is holding the spoiler rock steady. Seems like it is a part of the rear hatch top in terms of stability. As an added bonus the tape gap caused by the thickness of the tape is gone. :thumbup:

Hopefully this is a permanent install as opposed to the 3M tape.

http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/o...617_144214.jpg

http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/o...617_144157.jpg

http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/o...617_144205.jpg

http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/o...617_145733.jpg

http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/o...617_181419.jpg

I still love that lip. Very amused you have five random rotors sitting around to hold it down too. :)

Hah, no kidding right. Those would be 4 Nissan Altima rotors (just did my Dad's brakes this last weekend) and 1 Infiniti FX35 (from my Mom's brake job about a year ago). I keep all the heavy metal stuff to recycle once every year or so. Usually end up with about $200 between radiators, brake rotors, suspension stuff, random metal, and aluminum cans. :D

The X5 has been handling the heat pretty well. It was about 112º today but the cooling system worked fine and the AC blew super cold the whole time. Let's see how it does on Tuesday when it's 120º outside.

Today was a whole day with no clicks, clunks or clonks from the steering, so it certainly seems to have done the trick. Previously, changing direction on the steering wheel quickly when reversing I could feel and hear a small amount of play in the steering column - maybe about 2-3mm at most (on the diameter of the steering wheel).

I'm hoping that it doesn't come back but it all seems too easy somehow (i.e. it was a free repair!!). :confused:

Cleared some new codes that popped up - P0491 & P0492 #neverends

Very helpful feedback!



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My 4.6is developed an occasional rough bump while idling over the weekend... it felt like a little nudge from under the car. After a bit of scanning with INPA and using the smoothness graph, I determined that cylinder 7 was running a little rough but not enough to trigger a misfire or a code, so I swapped in a brand new Bremi ignition coil to replace the original 2002 coil. That seems to have solved the issue, and the smoothness graph in INPA showed a big improvement. I'm sure if I hadn't done anything it would have developed into a proper misfire with codes, but I'm happy to have taken care of this before it became an issue. Especially since it's going to be 120º on Tuesday... I don't want to deal with anything when it's that hot.

Original coil with 200k+ on it? :thumbup:

My coils didnt last 80k...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...641736b6a5.jpg

Replaced my rear brakes.

6/10 difficulty. The most difficult part was getting the rotor off because the emergency brake grabs just like a Chinese finger cuff.

Anybody DIY rear brakes the biggest tip is that once you get the rotor broken free from the rust, work it off just far enough to loosen the emergency brake adjust screw. (loosen is counter clockwise from below).

No special tools required. Anybody with basic mechanic tools can do this job.


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Recently replaced the thermostat on my 3.0d.
Not a particularly hard job, just some very awkward bolts to get to, make it a real pain in the arse.
Amazing how much smoother it runs with a working thermostat and mileage appears to have improved as well.

BTDT... still got the scars on my knuckles! ;)

A worthy task though - given the effort and cost required and the result. I caught mine early but I reckon more than a few 3.0d owners are driving on bad thermostats for ages...

I drove 1000s of miles unaware my thermostat was broken. My mileage went up like 16% immediately. I could not figure out why my wife's nearly identical x5 got 23 highway and I got 20 on a good day.

The moronic non gauge for temp on the dash is one of the biggest fails for BMW right up with the self destructing door handle.



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When mine failed, the engine was struggling to get to 70 Deg rather than the normal 88 Deg. This change was very visible on the temp gauge - that's what gave it away.

On mine, the first white mark is 60 Deg and the centre is anywhere from 75-95 Deg with little variation over this range. If the petrol engine is more sensitive to temp changes I guess this is a problem....

Just finished up the front air struts from Arnott. Made a DIY guide video, check it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yW2NhlJ1ahM

At about 65 mine goes right to noon. They may program the diesel differently. When ambient went below about five C I lost cabin heat that was the first indication of a nearly year long soft fail


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Just finished doing a BMW X5 4.6is Big Brake Brembo Upgrade:

[IMG]http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...S/IMG_1414.jpg[/IMG]

That looks niiice. Do you feel a difference between the stopping power and feel from stock?

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Most certainly!!!!!

.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...60583deda8.jpg

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Bravo sir... bravo. *golfclap* :thumbup:

So Clean :thumbup:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7c3833cfc6.jpg.

Loaded to capacity. 6000 pounds.



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Tell us how many miles until the next refill



Garage:
E53 4.4i M62 born 2003-03-04 (SOLD)
E53 4.8iS N62s born 2006-03-16
E90 325i N52 born 2006-03-28
F30 328i N20 born 2012-09-06

What did you do to / for your E53 today??
 

I typically get between 19 and 20 when "loaded for bear as shown in this picture.

I can expect about 420-450 miles range.

I will get slightly less on this particular tank as I was pulled over for driving too close to a construction zone at precisely the speed limit.

E.g. I was about 2 miles out of the construction zone and going 70 in a 70. I think the guy saw me wander toward the edge of my lane and decided to take a gamble I was DUI rather than the fact it was midnight I just might be a little on the tired side.

Let off with a warning (he was sticking with his construction story even though I had just entered the freeway and hadn't passed any orange signs) he did make me go through about 3 tests I couldn't do if I was wide awake at noon. (Stand on one leg until he decides to stop)? Basically as far as I can tell the obstacle course they put you through is just to get the the point where they can have you blow into the tube. Which I did and blew 0.0.

The silver lining: I still had two hour drive home so at least it woke me up a bit.

I'll update the post tomorrow after I check my mpg. I left the car running for 20-30 min. while I was being checked for DUI so my son and mom n law would stay warm. I reset the trip computer after the event

On my way out of town I weighed the truck:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ec8bcd8aba.jpg

A smidge over the official max but my car can do more since the tire upgrade (my tires go to eleven). I have more than 1000 # more capacity at the tires in the rear which probably equates to 500/600 more load capacity overall.



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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9eb3033099.jpg

Now that all the mechanical issues have been addressed it's time for the looks upgrade, Brand new Hella HL ( bought in Dubai for $600 pair), gonna install today b4 paint the car..

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...eb94656a82.jpg

Saturday meeting with BMW Fellas... the only e53 in Scene[emoji5]


- Gil -

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...66d3e0ee79.jpg


- Gil -

Did cooling system R&R to include radiator, water pump, thermostat, expansion tank, coolant and hoses.Took some pictures for visual aid for others. Not too bad of a job.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...psvbmsmu1d.jpghttp://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...pslhfjsgje.jpghttp://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...psbp8hj4mq.jpghttp://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...psocxwet7h.jpghttp://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...pslr2rgmi7.jpghttp://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...psvnjdaj8z.jpghttp://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...psbth5qlkf.jpg

Just a simple oil/filter change and inspection today. Looks like I have a small oil leak somewhere. We added some UV dye to the oil and will follow up next month to determine where the leak is originating from. Everything looks dry on top but at 147,000 miles, leaks will become my reality.

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/x5-...422_192143.jpg

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/x5-...422_192130.jpg

Got rear ended on a three vehicle accident. I was the leading car so at least rear damages only. But they hit the tow hitch installed two months ago. I'm so mad! One PDC sensor got knocked out. Hope there is no major damage on the hitch assembly.

Attachment 71948



Garage:
E53 4.4i M62 born 2003-03-04 (SOLD)
E53 4.8iS N62s born 2006-03-16
E90 325i N52 born 2006-03-28
F30 328i N20 born 2012-09-06

I've just been daily driving my X5 4.6 for the past few weeks. The AC system in it works so much better than the AC in my 2000 540it— it's made the 110ºF days bearable.

Holy Crap that thing is spotless. What's your secret?

Rolled over 215,000 miles the other day on my X5 4.6is. Who ever said only 3.0's can get to that kind of mileage?

Love hearing these stories.. what was your maintenance/breakdown journey like?

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Oil Change
Trans Fluid Flush/Filter change.

Will probably do a fluid only flush later this summer to help purge all the old fluid out

I was thinking the same thing. I thought I had a clean engine bay. That looks like it just rolled off the assembly line! Great job...

Thanks itsbrokeagain and JAXX5! My secret is very easy and simple.

The secret is Scrubbing Bubbles bathroom cleaner. Just spray the entire aerosol can on everything under the hood. Let it foam away for 3 to 5 minutes and rinse off with a low pressure garden hose. With low pressure you have little chance of any water getting past any electrical connection seals and wreaking havoc on the electrical system. Once it dries, spray on Aerospace 303 protectant and wipe it off. The Aerospace 303 doesn't leave a greasy shine like Armor All and leaves a clean matte finish. Just avoid getting the Scrubbing Bubbles on the plastic headlight lenses. It did stain mine but a quick rubbing compound made them new again :thumbup:

You will be amazed at the results for around $10 and an hour of time.

https://target.scene7.com/is/image/T...=520&fmt=pjpeg

https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/86c...0&odnBg=FFFFFF

I bought it with 213k miles with bad chain guides. The previous owner had just spent a small fortune getting the transmission rebuilt so when the guides went he just gave up and sold it for $3500. I bought it, shipped it from Seattle to Phoenix, and fixed the guides. After that I daily drove it for about a month, but then the front driveshaft stripped out and messed up the output spline in the transfer case, so the X5 sat for a while in my backyard while I found a new (used) transfer case and a new extended length driveshaft. I recently got it all back together and have been driving it since then. I also replaced two ignition coils and the secondary heater valve, as well as a few minor cosmetic things like the kidney grilles and window sunshade hooks.

Holy cow, there's a ton of scrubbing bubbles stored in my garage by the missus. Gonna steal a can and get busy ;) SA at dealership mentioned they use 409 cleaner and it did work so-so when I tried it out. Sounds like that following up with 303 protectant may be the one keeping results excellent?

The X is my daily driver so it does get dusty under the hood after a month or so. So once a month i simply wipe the top with a damp towel when I am drying the car after a bath and once a year I give it the Scrubbing bubbles treatment. Yeah, Aerospace 303 is a great product, I only apply it when it gets the full treatment. :thumbup:

Here's a peek of my 3 series, w/200,000 miles, same treatment...

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/attachm...1&d=1492465503

Wow, thanks a lot for your post. I'm totally convinced.

Everyone should have a clean engine bay. Once clean it is simple to keep it that way...

"I spy with my little eye" a Battery Tender?

Replaced water pump, thermostat, new o-rings for hoses, new belts, new idler and tensioner pulleys, de-grease engine bay and took for a quick test spin. Touch wood, all seems to be fine - no more squeaking at start-up (was water pump bearing and idler pulley bearing). Quality coolant after a flush of the system - all ready for next summer.
Most difficult aspect of this job was the lower bolt on the water pump clashing with crank shaft pulley. Ground off about 2mm and it made it much easier to reinstall.
Parts were ordered on-line and left LA on June 29th, arrived in Sydney on July 1st then took another 9 days to get to me in Western Australia (WTF?). Glad to have my workshop back in order and the X5 ready to rock n roll.

Finally replaced my digital MID radio control module with a refurbished unit off fleaBay. $275 with a $75 core refund when I send my old one back to them. My old one had so many dead pixels, I had to set things by memory or multiple button presses resulting in turning things off or on I didn't intend to. I couldn't even read what I was pressing. So much nicer... :thumbup:

Rear subframe bushings and Rear diff bushings. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c0f25db0b6.jpg

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Did my subframe bushings. Didn't do the dif bushings. How bad were yours?

I should check on my subframe bushings and diff bushings... as far as I know they're still original at 215k miles and I have the 4.6 engine which puts quite a bit of stress on everything.

As my car is coming up 14 years old the rubbers are going to be TOTALLY shot in my sub frame bushes, I have watched the videos and seen a way to get the bushes out and back in using the tool. Looks like the ONLY way to do it is WITH that tool. Tell me how hard it was and I will either forget about it or man up and do the work myself as I know it needs doing.

It's not that difficult. I'd say the tool is the only way to get those bushings out and in. The one trick with the tool is that it needs to be oriented properly. There are some notches in the bushings that tabs on the tool fit into. If you don't orient it properly it distorts the bushing and you'll play hell getting the old bushing out of the tool. Don't ask me how I know. ;)

Our cars both need the bushings for the sub frame. Hadn't checked the rear diff. I found some urethane adhesive with some very similar properties to the original bushing and am tempted to try an injected solution. It would be more firm than the original but much better than the clunk I get now when reversing direction


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Changed my oil yesterday. First time DIY on x5 also first time in 30 years or so. I removed my skid plate a couple days ago to clean up the disaster of a major oil leak which made it easier.

Helping hints for people interested in DIY on their e53:

1) you need a 36mm socket to remove the oil filter. I have a 12 sided because also works on axle nuts
2) absolutely imperative to replace the o-ring on the filter. My mechanic who did my last oil change didn't and that was the cause of my leak: what a disaster!
3) 17 mm box wrench worked great to remove drain plug. Open won't do it. Socket I think it'd avoid as it's easier to clean the wrench
4) imperative to replace the copper seal on the drain plug
5) when replacing the filter, do not over tighten, the seal is radial not axial so there is no benefit to extra tight
6) the stream of oil or of the oil pan shoots nearly horizontally! I over shot the catch bucket onto the ground
7) to get some extra working room I drove up onto some cement blocks. A stack of three "half blocks" blocks got me 8" in the air. The oil pan has a slight pitch in the back that countered the front being raised. Maybe if 5-6" raised the last bit of oil will come out faster.
8) I have read varied reports of how much oil is required when doing an oil change. I put in 7 to start with and was low but when I put in 8 it was seemingly over filled. I think that was due to the car being up on blocks. I checked later and the level was in the middle of the range.
9) one of the easiest oil changes. Saves about $20/30 USD to do myself. I think I'll start doing my own again.



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Ordered 2 GKN front axle assemblies and seals, front and rear wheel bearings, 2 guibos, rear sub-frame bushings, and a heater valve.

I've been getting hot air out of the passenger side vents with the AC running, which is driving my wife crazy. Today I clamped the hose going into the heater valve, and her side immediately cooled off (pun intended), so there you go...

Still need to order fluids to change the ones in the front and rear diff, as well as a drain and fill for the transmission and transfer case...

My AC had totally quit working here a couple weeks ago. I did some diagnosing and decided the compressor was shot since my fan was work. I had checked that by pulling the electrical connector on the ac line, and the fan came to life. I couldn't get the compressor clutch to engage at all, no matter what I tried. Finally ordered a new compressor, only to discover the wires had corroded out of the connector that plugged into the compressor. Fixed up the connector, and all was good again. Sent the compressor back as quick as I could...

I had a similar situation with AC compressor wouldn't kick on when I first bought my '01 with about 130k miles.

I couldn't figure out how to disconnect the wire going to the compressor to hotwire the thing you figure out if the compressor was shot.

I went to plan B; check the pressure sensors. The low side pressure sensor, the weather seal was so tight it wasn't pushed on all the way.

It took maybe half my body weight to push the damn thing on but when I felt the snap of the connector lock the compressor also instantly engaged!


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Woke up to a puddle of water under the passenger side of the engine. Had no smell of oil or coolant and and had a blueish color tint so I figured the windshield washer tank had let go. Turns out the windshield washer pump motor for the front windshield was leaking from the motor internally and the rear pump had signs of seeping, Bought the OEM pump motors for both with new grommets for $125 at the dealership. 10 minute job... No more leaks and the rear pump had been frozen for nearly a year. :headbang: Headlights washer pump looked new so I threw caution to the wind and left it alone. :thumbup:

Took the X5 offroad
 

$1200 Craigslist find with smashed radiator. It actually does well on class II trails. 2" lift 32" mud tires.

What a beastly setup.. what's that bumper?!

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Custom made copy of the fluid motor union x5 bumper.

Installed OEM crossbars and found a sweet deal on an excellent shape Packasport 60 roof box. Ready for camping!
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/...psxjseipfh.jpg

Also stumbled upon a brand new in box aFe CAI, price... wait for it....120$.
Couldn't be happier. Sounds amazing under load, like an angry dinosaur !!
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/...psd5c2ffud.jpg

Great find!

Nice find on the CAI, looks like a clean install as well

Replaced coils and plugs. Bremi coils, NGK Iridium IX plugs.

Last plug change was 37,000 miles ago. Electrode color was great. Old plugs were Bosch Platinum Fusion. No oil around plugs. With the exception of one coil that was replaced when it was under warranty, all were the original coils.

OEM Running board installed

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3dfc2bbd5e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2c76565beb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...02f8c16c23.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...96ac94b8f3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...786208ed44.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1caac8f576.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...234dc5baa9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f29fa590bc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2bf4a952c2.jpg


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Had to repair my Dinan strut bar and finally reinstalled it today. One of the mounting bolts with the eyelet that bolts to the strut tower had sheared. I had a buddy weld it together for me and it seems to be holding.

It may be placebo, but I'll be damned if I don't notice the front being more connected and stiffer. Feels great. I'd be willing to be that bolt has been broken since I bought the truck 701 days ago (Fuellog told me so when I filled up today).

This one:

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/bmw...ide-mount.jpeg

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I love that OE running board and hope to put it on my X5 one day :thumbup:

Very nice work!

Mike

Replaced both rear brake hoses; made up and installed NiCopp brake lines to replace the leaking originals under the driver seat. Bled the brakes with a liter of ATE low-viscosity fluid.

Gave Big Red a good wash in the garage. Cleaned the wheel barrels and brake calipers as well. Looks like it might rain so I might leave her in the garage for the evening. I had wanted to bring the wife's X5d in to give it a wash and test fit her new wheels... but we'll see what the weather does. Also reinstalled the front license plate bracket... I don't even remember why I took it off. lol

Sorry no pics, thanks photobucket. I'm going to have to look into hosting my own pics...

I like to be an active participant in whatever forum I join, but I'm pretty new to the X5, so I guess I'll start pretty innocuously.

Just starting to take stock of my '04 6 speed stick. The PO took very nice care of it, so not much to do yet, but one of my pet peeves is looking at rust streaks on license plates from the mounting screws. I removed the plastic rear mount, and ran a 5mm tap thru the threads of the captive nuts to clean them up, and used 4 new stainless 5mm pan head phillips screws in anticipation of its new plate. Waxed the cove while it was off, and reinstalled.

Installed a new front roundell, and made note of a couple minor ares in need of a daub of touch up paint below the front grills.

Once I register and start driving it, I'm sure this sort of post will be a bit more substantial!

Installed my Powerflex front thrust arm bushings. Even in the 12 ton press, I had to heat the crap out of the arm to get the old bushing to budge.

Finally cured of all shaking, and my key battery dies today. Not really thrilled to have to spend another $200 on one.

It's not a difficult procedure to replace the battery. Some relatively easy soldering and finding the correct rechargeable battery. I have to replace those same bushings but I have upgraded my bearing press from 12 to over 30T after stripping three drive bolts while replacing front wheel bearings. They say heating to the point the rubber starts to melt it the key to removing if the bushing doesn't have a metal ring around it


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https://www.bmwgm5.com/

I have used him in the past does good work

That sucks. But fixing them is pretty easy... and if you fail, you were going to spend $200 anyway so no loss. I've put new batteries in a few of these keys now.

Its only the battery about 50% of the time from what I remember talking to the guy I listed above. I had more than just the battery going on with mine and sent keys and GM5 module in for my Z4.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5e9e0100fa.jpg

Change to my fav wheel.... Summer just started


- Gil -

Replaced my CCV system - removed my intake (first mechanical task!).

But I can't get rid of a very loud vacuum noise (which causes the car to stall/run extremely rough). It's coming from the intake where it meets the engine it seems (not the boot).

If anyone has ideas, it would be much appreciated. I've removed/redone the intake 5 times to try any find it. Going borderline insane here :/

Have you tried spraying some carb cleaner around the area where you are hearin the vacuum leak?

I have not (and I'm not near stores where I am). Is there something less specific I could use?

You can use brake cleaner, MAF cleaner, propane torch or starter fluid.

Sold the 4.6iS. Adios old friend

Congrats!

You were just coming up on a year of ownership weren't you? What was the reason for parting ways (if you don't mind of course)?

Now don't go do anything foolish like sell the E39 M5????

Keeping it pretty with a new rear roundel last week :D

2002 X5 3.0 327,500 miles
2014 428i 29,000 miles

2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles

1970 Firebird Under restoration

changed plugs and coil tubes on the passenger side then removed the drivers side rocker cover to put a new gasket on ,
now ive got to fathom out how to put it back together without removing the black box that connects to the injectors
(how do you you get that box off) I cant see the clips

156k and it looks clean in there

There is one clip for each connector that you can pry loose with a small screwdriver. Or you can do it the easy way, and unbolt the two 10 mm nuts that holds in it place. Take a grip with one hand on each side of the box and just pull it out. The locking clips in the connectors wont brake they will spring by the locking pin. This has worked wery well for me everytime i removed them [emoji106]


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that sounds like I will break something :)

but I shall try , removal of rocker cover was a bit tight , with it in situ

but its getting dark now , and its beeroclock

I cleaned my engine bay: it was a disaster after my mechanic at the last oil change did not replace the o-ring on the oil filter and it leaked like a sieve. My never had a drop of oil on it engine ended up caked in oil/dirt mix. I did my own oil change last week and cleaned the engine bay today with scrubbing bubbles. I will do one more scrub before I put the skid plate and front chin aero parts back on.


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Gave old Betsy a thorough scrubbing inside and out. Got the claybar out some polishing compound and some carnuba wax...first good detail since she left the showroom floor I think. PO did not car except to maybe wash the outside twice a year.

Passed 130k this morning as well

Installed an E-Light Ultimate to get the three-blinker, angel eye DRL, and auto folding mirrors. Auto unlock on key out is not working at this stage - think I might have to add an extra wire per this thread, but waiting on the company to get back to me confirming it.

Over the last couple of weeks also changed angel eyes to LED, and updated my maps to the last Australian version (2014 :().

Anyone interested?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...20f2ec7557.pnghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e9ef47623b.pnghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...aacf4ec8a4.png




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Depends... Does it have all required hardware and a price?

FYI-posting items for sale is limited to premier members and then only in the classified section.

Over the weekend I tested my battery after it went flat, and determined it was a bad cell. It was a BMW H8 series battery, only 4 years old. Went with a new Interstate H8. It really is a minor PITA to get at that battery. ANd had the first chance to really get acquainted with my X5 6MT this weekend. Need to replace a bad wheel bearing, but other than that, very nice!

what is it?

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I am interested. Sent you a PM.

Sorry its sold


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Dammit! I've been looking for one forever. Can you please PM how much it sold for? I'd like to know next time someone posts one for sale so I can offer something fair.

Sold it for 800 with all mounting hardware


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damn ive been looking for that underride guard since my e53 purchase.

wow!:thumbup:

Worked on my battery drain issues today.

I just removed the tcu Bluetooth module from mine. Charging the battery up now for testing.

If it isn't down any tomorrow problem solved hopefully.

If I wasn't going to switch to an aftermarket radio anyway I would permanently fix the tcu issue by rewiring its power feed to an ignition wire in place of live all the time.

Come to think of it I may do that anyway. Kind of sounds like fun and it will be a bit before the new radio gets here anyways.

Well lets see how this test goes first.

swapped halogen headlights for xenon projectors and finally added my skid plate

https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/t5...41748992_n.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yk...=w1412-h794-no

today I cleaned the maf and the throttle body, TB wasn't too bad tbh , don't notice any difference :)

Got out and checked my x5 today after 24 hours sitting and it had made it down to 12.67 volts sitting that long so at least I know my tcu was the battery killing problem.

Looks awesome. What exactly is needed to do the swap?? Do you have a part list of what you used :thumbup:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...813831f9ef.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b9a3a3277e.jpg

Installed my YAKIMA rack


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Finally finished the right rear lower control arm bushing install and did the ball joint as well. Subframe bushings are next, and I can finally say I'm done overhauling it (every arm/bushing has been replaced)

Did you replace the rear swing arm bushings?

I searched on Cragislist and Ebay for any sets of original Headlights coming off a 2000 to 2003 E53s with Xenons. You'll have luck with any 8cyl model from that time frame. The ones I found had bulbs and ballasts, however I did order new bulbs just so they wear out evenly.

The set up for the install is slightly different than just plug and play being the halogens don't have a bottom plastic bracket on the housings to hold the ballasts.

I had to zip tie the ballasts because again the brackets from the xenon headlights don't fit into the halogen set up.

If you want to be 100% sure about part numbers, I use this website as reference all the time: BMW Parts Catalog

Looks good. how much and what's the load rating for those.

Just completed:
-BC Racing coilovers
-Eibach front and rear sway bars(Anti-roll kit)
-Thayer camber and toe arms
-Powerflex subframe and UCA bushings
-SuperPro front/rear adj swaybar endlinks
-Eibach 20mm spacers for rear

4.6is kit/aluminum running boards/fender extensions to be put on next

Just fixing the paint on my 4.6is, also got the wheels a little dark and deleted the HL washers

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...346caeadba.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4639bf2c37.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...328babc984.jpg


- Gil -

Drove to see the eclipse https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...98da196a41.jpg


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Went out in the front yard and shot this thru a welding mask.

Didn't get a full eclipse in Alabama but was pretty close.

gearbox
 

Yesterday, I replaced the mechatronic seal, filter, gasket and partial oil.
I've done the filter, gasket and oil before, so not much in that.

This is the first time I've done the mechatronic seal though.
Last oil change it was fine, but recently developed a leak when left for a week.
I knew it was a good preventative thing to change, but believed it was quite tricky to do, so didn't do it last oil change.
Now that it is done, I was surprised how easy it was to change!
If you open the gearbox, I would definitely recommend changing the seal, even it it's not leaking yet. It's just too easy to do, since you're in there anyway.

Took "Bumbo" on the weekend to the Motor show with my Crew of BMW Club Angola

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1f0e022fed.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9ecc0887a1.jpg

Met at my house for a couple pics b4 leaving to the show
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...10f4077769.jpg


- Gil -

Nice set of bmw's !

Valve cover gaskets, upper timing cover gaskets, VANOS seals, expansion tank, upper hose, valley pan and full flushes

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Bought a 20 ton hydraulic press from harbor freight to do the front wheel bearing on my x5.

Just finished assembling the press.

Its not but 4 feet from the X5 but so far that wheel bearing hasn't moved 1 inch towards getting its sorry self on that press to be changed.

I'll keep everyone updated though.

Worse case scenario I will remove it manually tomorrow and walk it over to the press.

Just picked up an 2004 X5 4.4i looking to give it some roar
quite a few maintenance Item such:
- valve stem job
- 0 Sensors
- replaced Purge Valve
- updated 4.8 Cluster (white LED's, Black face plate, mileage correction) * tb installed

some upgrades to:
- ECS Angel eyes Xenon white bulbs
- 4.8 rear exhaust setup (Piping , Mufflers, and tips)
- Under carriage guard rail
- OEM 19" in staggered wheels with run flats
- Schmeidmann front tower strut Brace tb installed

Mods in progress :

- Dinan TB upgrade
- Dinanantronics Stage 3
- AFE Cold Air intake stage 2
- front and rear Aerodynamics bumper

I am now realizing that the N62 engine has a very limited option in terms of performance mods out there. Can anyone suggest something I might not have mentioned very new to the BMW world and aside from selling this and trying to find a clean 4.8 or Dinan Modded out X5.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

OEM 19" tires
http://i64.tinypic.com/10his6t.jpg

New angel eyes Bulb from ECS
http://i65.tinypic.com/1y4zg2.jpg

DISA valve DIY!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-jstMRxTes

4-Wheel alignment after installing Hardrace rear adjustable camber arms

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5m...w=w653-h890-no

Mike

Nice! So you didn't need the hardrace adj toe arms?

Correct!

In my situation thankfully I didn't need the toe arms :thumbup:

I decided to tackle my "check rear lights" warning finally, after a year of ownership. I thought I would surely see fried bulb sockets. After approximately 30 seconds of diagnostic work, I discovered that one brake bulb and socket were missing entirely. Bought a new bulb and socket and now we are good to go. ��

I might have to do that. My last alignment report was all red in the rear. Have a link for the adjustable arms?



Garage:
E53 4.4i M62 born 2003-03-04 (SOLD)
E53 4.8iS N62s born 2006-03-16
E90 325i N52 born 2006-03-28
F30 328i N20 born 2012-09-06

HARDRACE GLOBAL - #8685 BMW X5 E53 '01-06 REAR UPPER CAMBER KIT

http://www.hardrace.com/UploadFile/P...816F1Q18RZ.jpg

HARDRACE GLOBAL - REAR UPPER CAMBER KIT?8685

Part Number 8685 for the E53

Thanks Mike.



Garage:
E53 4.4i M62 born 2003-03-04 (SOLD)
E53 4.8iS N62s born 2006-03-16
E90 325i N52 born 2006-03-28
F30 328i N20 born 2012-09-06

PS: I paid $200 for the pair of Hardrace upper rear camber arms in late April 2017, including Free Ground shipping.

Here are the rear adjustable toe arms offered by Hardrace

HARDRACE GLOBAL - REAR TOE CONTROL ARM?7308

https://www.hardracesuspension.com.a...316o59s3cz.jpg

Mike