'02 4.6is "034" 5hp-24 DIY(1st time)
 

Problem: Whistling sound, jerking, slipping with 120k miles.

Going to be my 1st time doing a transmission, gonna need advise/help from the experts here, researched and got the manuals, it's been a week already since i took the tranny down working a couple of hours here and there so here goes the pics...

some more pics..
 

metal shavings and axial needle roller bearing..

There are a bunch of radial bearings in there. Make sure you check them all.

Also get the oil out of the torque converter as much as you can, then look into the trans end and shake it, if you can see a 2" metal disk sliding into the opening the TConv is toast. Either way, this is the time to replace it but it helps to know how much debris you are dealing with.

will do!!

definitely going to get another TC or reman it..

1) what tools did you use to extract the gromets?
2) did you take all the pipes out and replace them(as per manual)?

going to buy the rebuild kits, anything you recommend which needed to be replace i.e. solenoid/pressure regulator etc..(might as well do it while the tranny is down)also getting the TC

i'm using "Transtar Industries" thanks again!!

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...long-post.html

this may help...

New jump tubes are included in the overhaul kit so it doesn’t really matter if you damage them getting them out. It’s still easier to get them out in one piece though if you can & I use this tool which I had made up :

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...TubePuller.jpg

I always replace the three steel pipes (B-clutch, E-brake and sprag lube) as the ends deform as they’re hammered home. I recently stripped a 5HP24 that had previously been ‘repaired’ and found this when I removed the valve block :

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...sconnected.jpg

I believe the pipe became disconnected as it had been reused and was no longer an interference fit in the hole.

The solenoids are unlikely to need replacing unless you suspect that you had a particular problem with them? You can test the resistance of their windings with a multimeter.

Judging by the amount of metal in your sump I don’t think you’ve actually got to the problem yet!

Phil

Tower I , Brake D, E and clutch C pics
 

thanks guys!

i use a pick to take the gromet out, unplugged the pipe that was kinda holding the Tower I assembly..

Phil, any pointers where i should look into?

bear with me as i'm learning this whole process with you guys..

Rodel

I think you need to get the A & B clutch assembly (Tower II) apart next. Amongst other things I should be looking for wear on the 3 pads on the back of the B clutch hub. Unworn pads look like this :

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...Padsunworn.jpg

and not like this :D :

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...8/Padsworn.jpg

Just reiterating something that TriX5 mentioned earlier – it’s important to check all three of the ‘retained’ front axial needle roller bearings, which means detaching the cage from the raceway. For example, this bearing (actually an A clutch hub to B clutch hub bearing) nominally looks fine :

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...HubBearing.jpg

but if you detach the needle cage you can see that the raceway is actually badly pitted :

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...08/raceway.jpg

Phil

A & B clutch assembly (Tower II)
 

phil,

i dont know if you can see the scratching on the metal on the pads..

found the worn(broken) gasket and more metal chips..

Odd, I did not find any pieces of metal that big anywhere in mine but I did have one sheared O-ring.

I wonder what the source of those bigger metal chips is.....? Keep us posted!