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  #271  
Old 03-24-2019, 02:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Attacking Mid View Post
Well, that destroys my entire premise. I was under the impression that the Android units had built-in amps that would allow me to eliminate my factory amp. Thanks.... I think I'll go back to the basic radio idea again.

AM.
The Android HUs' do have a power amp (same as any basic radio) but I've recently discovered (on this forum) that all USA cars have a rear mounted amp - some also have DSP - that any after-market HU (or basic) radio will need to be connected to, unless you want to rewire all the speaker connections to bypass the OEM rear amp.

Others might confirm this - folk who actually have a USA car! As I said, my car has but one power amp - in the dash, built into the in-dash Professional CD - along with a radio receiver and a single CD player. The controls for all this are on the MID unit. Swapping this out for any new HU - Android or a single DIN radio etc. is dead easy - literately plug and play, since all the speakers are run up into the centre of the dash.

All I'm saying is that IF your lack of audio is because your rear amp is dead, then you will need either repair this amp or re-wire the speaker connections before you can use any HU solution - Android HU or basic radio etc.

But I hope others here can confirm this - or correct me. I'm learning that the only E53 I know anything about is mine!
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  #272  
Old 03-24-2019, 09:44 AM
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I do have an amp in the back, but I do NOT have DSP. My understanding is that I can simply remove the amp and the rear-mounted radio unit, then plug an extension cord into the connector at the back where the current radio plugs in. I didn't think the out-bound speaker connections went through the amp, but I'm not sure about much of anything on the sound system.

Currently, my headunit seems to work fine other than a blotchy screen, but I get no sound at all. Hence, I don't know if my amp, radio, or both are dead. The Nav disc player runs, but gives disc reading errors on the headunit. I was hoping to remove all the original stereo/nav stuff other than speakers.

AM.
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  #273  
Old 03-24-2019, 12:24 PM
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It could be a dead amp if you have the non-DSP amplifier. Do you have a picture of your OE amplifier? There were 3 audio options available here in the States. 1. Base audio, amp built into radio in dash 2. HiFi audio (w/ or w/o nav), amplifier in rear by CD changer 3. HiFi Professional DSP audio (w/ or w/o nav), larger amplifier in the rear by CD changer.

No matter what head unit you get you would be able to delete the factory amplifiers if desired. But A LOT of wiring could be necessary.

If your entire goal is simply to get audio, it might be easier and/or cheaper to diagnose the problem with your current system. Like anything BMW, sometimes modifying things can get much more complicated than anticipated.
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  #274  
Old 03-24-2019, 02:11 PM
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Here's what my left rear cubbie looks like and below is my amp. I have power to the red/green connector at the amp and power to several of the wires going into the radio unit under the spare tire. I didn't measure values - just a test light. I've checked all fuses. The amp had some corrosion at the connector. I've cleaned that up as thoroughly as I could and I've wiggled it in/out to see if I could make a brief connection, but nothing.

Here's what it says when I pull up my VIN:

S609A Navigation System Professional
S639A Preparation F Mobile Phone Cpl USACDN
S676A HiFi Speaker System
S645A BMW US Radio
S692A Preparation BMW 6CD Changer Ibus


Name:  X5 Left Cubbie.jpg
Views: 48
Size:  911.9 KB

Name:  X5 Amp.jpg
Views: 48
Size:  346.8 KB

AM.
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Last edited by Attacking Mid; 03-25-2019 at 12:35 AM.
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  #275  
Old 03-26-2019, 10:17 AM
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Anyway to test the amp and/or the "radio" units? From reading around the 'net, it sounds like both components are capable of failure, though it sounds like the radio unit is the MOST likely suspect.

There certainly are a LOT of wires that plug into the amp, and based on the latest advice here, it sounds like if I install a new Android system, it still may not work if there's a problem with my amp. Used similar amps seem to go for about $100 on ebay, so I guess there's always that.

If nobody can tell me how to test these components, I DO have a buddy who is a PhD in electrical engineering. I guess I might have to hit him up for ideas on how to test components. Hopefully I can understand him

I assume an android WILL eliminate the radio unit by the battery. Is that correct?

AM.
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Last edited by Attacking Mid; 03-26-2019 at 10:33 AM.
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  #276  
Old 03-26-2019, 10:41 AM
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Yes an Android will eliminate the radio unit by the battery. The only way to test the units that I know of (without being an EE) is to install in a similarly equipped X5. If the problem lies with your radio unit then the replacement head unit will fix it. If it lies with your amp then you will need a new amp.

A lot of wires indeed. The twisted pair wires are the ones that go to the speakers. You could test for +12v constant and +12v on the remote wire when the radio is on. I think you said you are getting 12v constant already but if the radio isn't sending the remote turn on signal then the amp won't power up. You could check ground continuity as well, but I doubt that's the problem.
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2006 X5 4.8is Build 11/05 Maintenance/Build Log
Nav, DSP, Pano, Running Boards, OEM Tow Hitch, Cold Weather Pckg (Purchased 08/15 w/ 90,500 miles)

2010 X5 35d Build 02/10
Nav, HiFi, 6 DVD, Sports Pckg, Cold Weather Pckg, HUD, CAS, Running Boards, Leather Dash, PDC, Pano (Purchased 03/17 w/ 136,120 miles)
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  #277  
Old 03-26-2019, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Attacking Mid View Post
Anyway to test the amp and/or the "radio" units? From reading around the 'net, it sounds like both components are capable of failure, though it sounds like the radio unit is the MOST likely suspect.

There certainly are a LOT of wires that plug into the amp, and based on the latest advice here, it sounds like if I install a new Android system, it still may not work if there's a problem with my amp. Used similar amps seem to go for about $100 on ebay, so I guess there's always that.

If nobody can tell me how to test these components, I DO have a buddy who is a PhD in electrical engineering. I guess I might have to hit him up for ideas on how to test components. Hopefully I can understand him

I assume an android WILL eliminate the radio unit by the battery. Is that correct?

AM.
Yep the unit by the battery is the "radio" part of your system. FM/AM part of it.

The amp is what you have a picture of removed. The 2001 I bought had a bad amp when I bought it. I bought a used one from an junkyard online for $50 and that fixed it. There isn't a sure fire way to diagnose it I just rolled the dice. My logic was everything else worked but no sound so it probably was the amp
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  #278  
Old 03-26-2019, 12:44 PM
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Using this guide below stolen from another thread, I did confirm that the white wire which tells the amp to turn on has power at the amp plug. Several other wires also have power at the amp, but that plug design makes it difficult to decipher which wire goes to which plug location. I had to pierce the white wire to confirm, as I can't see which plug it goes to in the connector.

I don't know if all this makes it seem more likely that the amp is bad? I hate to just roll the dice and buy another amp - guessing that's the problem.

Contributed by: UCrewX5

X5 Radio Module and Amp Information

2002 and newer Radio Module - w/Nav

Pin No. / Wire Color / Function
Large Black Plug x18126

1 / Blue-Black / Right Rear + output to amp (twisted with 5)
2 / Blue-Red / Right Front + output to amp (twisted with 6)
3 / Yellow-Red / Left Front + output to amp (twisted with 7)
4 / Yellow-Black / Left Rear + output to amp (twisted with 8)
5 / Blue-Black / Right Rear + output to amp (twisted with 1)
6 / Blue-Red / Right Front + output to amp (twisted with 2)
7 / Yellow-Red / Left Front + output to amp (twisted with 3)
8 / Yellow-Black / Left Rear + output to amp (twisted with 4)
9 / White-Yellow bands / I-bus?
10 / White-Brown / Mute from phone?
11 / White-Green / ?
12 / Brown / Ground
13 / White / Remote on-off to amp
14 / Grey-Red / Dash illumination (dimmer)
15 / Red-Green / +12v from battery (not switched)
16 / Violet-White / +12v from ignition (ACC and RUN)

small white plug x13598
Pin No. / Wire Color / Function
1 / / No function
2 / White-Brown / Audio common from 6CD player
3-7 / / No connection
8 / White-Red / Audio Left Channel from 6CD player
9 / White-Blue / Audio Right Channel from 6CD player
10 / / No Connection
11 / NAV / TV Audio +
12 / NAV / TV Audio -

NEW Small black plug: x13649 plug
Pin No. / Wire Color / Function
1 / Tape left +
2 / Tape left -
3 / Left Connection for AUX Input
4 / Right Connection for AUX Input
5 / NAV / TV Audio +
6 / White-Black / Phone audio + Positive
7 / Tape right +
8 / Tape right -
9 / No connection
10 / AUX Input Ground
11 / NAV / TV Audio +
12 / Brown-Black / Phone Audio - Groundv

AM.
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  #279  
Old 03-26-2019, 02:41 PM
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Well for me it was easy since I have two x5's that use that amp. I figured if it wasn't the problem I would have a spare. At the same time if your going to keep this x5 or even get another one to replace it one day and stay in the E53 year range your going to need it sooner or later
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  #280  
Old 03-26-2019, 03:32 PM
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I'm waiting on a response from my buddy to get his thoughts, but I'm leaning toward buying a used amp and "hoping" that fixes it.

Regarding the Nav DVD drive, can I just unplug it and remove it, or does it need to be tied-in to the system also? The DVD drive tries spinning the 2004 (!) disc, but I get a disc read error showing on the headunit screen.

AM.
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