CV BOOT REPLACED IN 30 MINUTES

[upallnight]

If you already have the axle out of the car, it's not that hard to replace the CV joint. You can purchase an outer CV joint for under 50 bucks and that includes a new rubber boot, new axle nut and the grease.

Outer CV Joint 27X65X30 - BMW X5 E53 1999-2006 - OEM: 31607503538 Febest: 1910-X5 - Newegg.com

[squidzilla]

Thanks for the tip. I wish my resume was as long as the thread. I guess I meant as long as that one post only. Trying to debate between that part and an Autozone Duralast with lifetime warranty. Reading about Cardone as well. I plan on holding on to my original axles as well and having them rebuilt for the next failure. The e46 uses the same part number for the boots as the X5 so I am looking to see if the axles are the same as well. I can have rebuilt OE spares waiting.

[Ricky Bobby]

Honestly if they are already spewing grease just get the GKN Loebro replacements for both sides ($250 apiece) or buy the GKN outer boot kits ($20 apiece) and the outer CV joint part # 31607586433 -

I dont know where Febest part is made but I know from the dealer the outer CV joints are approx $170 - if you can cross reference the part # you can probably find the GKN part number and it would be cheaper than the dealer - I also am not a fan of shops doing rebuilds that regrind components, as it compromises integrity of the metallurgy, however, I do agree with them that you want to always keep your OE axles if you can - they are built to last hundreds of thousands of miles

Dont waste your time, money, or energy on parts store junk IMO - ok the "duralast" or Cardone has a lifetime warranty - that doesnt include your time - how many times do you want to do the axle job? Do it right or do it twice.

[StephenVA]

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

Honestly if they are already spewing grease just get the GKN Loebro replacements for both sides ($250 apiece) or buy the GKN outer boot kits ($20 apiece) and the outer CV joint part # 31607586433 -

I dont know where Febest part is made but I know from the dealer the outer CV joints are approx $170 - if you can cross reference the part # you can probably find the GKN part number and it would be cheaper than the dealer - I also am not a fan of shops doing rebuilds that regrind components, as it compromises integrity of the metallurgy, however, I do agree with them that you want to always keep your OE axles if you can - they are built to last hundreds of thousands of miles

Dont waste your time, money, or energy on parts store junk IMO - ok the "duralast" or Cardone has a lifetime warranty - that doesnt include your time - how many times do you want to do the axle job? Do it right or do it twice.

GERMAN QUALITY CONTROL: Our German quality control experts ensure that all parts are of the utmost quality. We have specially developed metals and rubbers that create a super durable, and long lasting end product. Base on their description, I would assume it is made in Germany.

Part is also available from Amazon with free shipping and a review of the part.

Amazon.com: Customer Reviews: FEBEST 1910-X5 Outer CV Joint

[Xellarap]

2002 BMX X5 4.4 outer cv boot.
Here is my experience doing this work.
0) Only removed the control arm bolt.
1) I tried vice grips/bar and banging options to pull the outer joint with no success (even rotated rotor a few times).
2) Opted for inner boot alternative but had to order it (GKN). Also ordered snap ring pliers. I had to wait for part but this option worked very well as others have done it (only messier).
3) I had a hard time using the clamp plier tool under car (no good leverage). So ended up ordering 'OTC 4722 Stinger Heavy-Duty CV Boot Clamp Installer’ from Amazon and the tool worked great. I strongly recommend it.
4) I was unable to torque the control arm nut/lug with wheels on floor. So I got a hold of a couple of 4x4 blocks that gave me enough space and leverage for the torque wrench.
5) I reused the control arm bolt and nut. I’ve driven the car for some time now and checked it a few times and looks OK. I should have installed a new one for peace of mind but just wanted to get the work done.

I spent a week on this including time spent waiting for the parts/tools and googling for options/ideas. Now that I know what to do and have the proper tools, I think I can do this in a couple of hours.

The net is... Order both inner and outer boots, buy control arm nut and bolt, and get the right tools. Job should be done in a couple of hours.

[Lion Heart]

Does it make a differnce to the process if you have air suspension???

[Jake335i]

Originally Posted by Lion Heart

Does it make a differnce to the process if you have air suspension???

No

[Lion Heart]

Hi guys!

I have a couple of questions having read through this, and now have my X5 jacked up with the wheel off etc...

1) How do you remove the driveshaft spindle from the gearbox? Are there any clips etc holding it in place, or does it just pull straight out? I have a slide hammer which will assist me, but don't want to start hammering it back if there's something that holds it in place?

2) When the driveshaft is popped out of the gearbox, does the gearbox leak oil and need to be topped up again after refitting? Or is it literally just a socket? I ask as I did this similar job on my Volvo V50 a while back and that leaks gearbox fluid from the hole and must be refilled!!!

3) I'm having trouble finding an INNER front CV gaitor at a sensible price. Outer, easy. Inner, not so. I bought one from Euro Car Parts which they state is inner https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/B...94ebe87&000445 However, looking inside it once it arrived did not have the three moulded parts around the inner edge that fit around the tripod. So I sent it back. But now I'm wondering if they make this oversized to completely emcompass the tripod joint??? Did the one you used have the three moulded parts on the inside edge to fit around the trpod?

Really need some help, and much appreciated!

[svvg]

Hi mate - not sure if you've got this sorted yet - but it "levers/taps" out and is held in by a clip, much like the outer cv joint. There's a guy on You Tube - The 50s Kid - who has a range of excellent tutorials on the E46 and also the E53 - and he shows how to remove the whole shaft. No oil trickles out - and lots of people seem to just reinsert when they're done - would have thought it's worth replacing the seal amd c clip though... and for some stuff/parts I really think you need to bite the bullet and go BMW - so I'd advise to get the boots from there. The quality is much better. On my car I had an original bmw boot just starting to crack and a replacement boot - which had collapsed. Bmw part was twice as thick - and you know it will fit properly and last.

I've just replaced the outer boots on both sides and cleaned out and regreased the joints. Thank you to the original posters and all those who contributed. Really helped me.

My method was to remove the straight control arm from the subframe. Remove the brake assembly (while I don't think it's necessary for the repair - it does make the hub lighter to man-handle around) then the two bolts holding the strut onto the hub. Turn the wheel into the car and tap out the axle (after removing the axle nut....). Then slot one bolt back into the hub and strut to hold it in place. To remove the outer cv joint, cut away the boot and clean the grease a bit so you can see the centre star part where you have to whack it, as per the guides earlier. I used a foot long, pretty ancient masonary chisel and a medium sized metal mallet - pointed the axle and cv joint out and towards the rear of the car (as far round as it would go) and lay at the front of car and hit the star part of the joint. You don't need to beat the sht out of it. Hit it "solidly". So more than a tap, but not like you're at the fair ground trying to get the bell to ring. If it won't come off then rotate the axle slightly - as I think there's a sweet spot for the c-clip holding it together to pop out. Someone else mentioned this somewhere I think - pops off very easily when it's rotated to the correct spot. To reassemble I used the advice given earlier to ise a hose clip over the c clip. Not mega tight or it wont slide off - and also - make sure it can be completely opened so you can remove it after the axle is on!

I'm an experienced, albeit amateur diy-er - I am very slow and methodical and clean stuff as I go etc - but took me 5 hours a side including tidying up!