CV BOOT REPLACED IN 30 MINUTES

[Morfzak]

If you're going to all the trouble of removing the axle to the point you can put it on a work bench. I would go the next step.

[Bmwe5320023.0]

This tool is so cheap for separating the joint from the shaft I'm ordering it
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B071DZK99S/..._e96MEb273FBCR

Only concern is to be able to put it back together

[oldskewel]

Originally Posted by Bmwe5320023.0

This tool is so cheap for separating the joint from the shaft I'm ordering it
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B071DZK99S/..._e96MEb273FBCR

Only concern is to be able to put it back together

There is a full thread on here somewhere about a tool that may be identical to that one. I bought one myself, hoping to use it one day. Discussed extensively in the thread, and I think the final answer is that the hole the axle shaft goes through is too small to work as it should on the X5, at least for the front axles.

Here's a video of a similar tool. Problem with the x5 is that there are not enough threads available for the nut since the splined part of the shaft is too big for the hole at this point in the video.
https://youtu.be/DzEuu2F-tX8?t=51


Search on here and you should find it. But at the low price, I have no regrets having bought it. I often find ways to use things like this.

[Bmwe5320023.0]

Yeah this tool is $19 CAD, which is like $13 USD. Also amazon prime, so I can return it if it doesn't work. At this price point, nothing to lose.

If the splined shaft is too large for this tool, I can grind off the tool slightly so it will fit perfectly.

I will post back once I get the tool. May take a long time as all deliveries are very slow lately.

Popping the axle was super easy with a pry bar.

Ahh differential seals are pretty expensive, $43 each at the dealer

I'm debating if I should change the front bearings as well since I got everything apart. Looks like a crazy job

[Fifty150hs]

Originally Posted by Bmwe5320023.0

This tool is so cheap for separating the joint from the shaft I'm ordering it
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B071DZK99S/..._e96MEb273FBCR

Only concern is to be able to put it back together

Will not work without modification. The collar at the top is too narrow. I purchased one of those. They are poorly made in China. I reamed out the collar on the top and ground the top of the collar so it was parallel with the bottom clamp and it worked well.

Putting the CV back on is pretty easy. Just a smack with a hammer pops it back on.

[Bmwe5320023.0]

You're right, I had to modify the tool to make it a bit wider.
No big deal.
Passenger side came apart beautifully.
The driver's side did not come off.
I ended up stripping the thread on that axle...
Then I got mad and started banging with a 4 pound hammer, no luck! I hate these CV joints, no way to do it properly, something goes to shit either way...
This guy also only removed one side, and for the other side the tool actually broke
https://youtu.be/RuGlxXxvL7o
That's why I'm always amazed and in disbelief when I hear people say that it's so easy to remove the joint and that's why I was trying to avoid separating the shift from the joint at all costs...

[Fifty150hs]

Originally Posted by Bmwe5320023.0

You're right, I had to modify the tool to make it a bit wider.
No big deal.
Passenger side came apart beautifully.
The driver's side did not come off.
I ended up stripping the thread on that axle...
Then I got mad and started banging with a 4 pound hammer, no luck! I hate these CV joints, no way to do it properly, something goes to shit either way...
This guy also only removed one side, and for the other side the tool actually broke
https://youtu.be/RuGlxXxvL7o
That's why I'm always amazed and in disbelief when I hear people say that it's so easy to remove the joint and that's why I was trying to avoid separating the shift from the joint at all costs...

That's why all the mechanics I know just replace the entire axle assembly rather than replace a cracked boot. It's faster to pull the axle and pop in a new one than to pull the axle itself apart. The price of axles has come down so low that it's cheaper to replace the axle. That's what I will do if I have another cracked boot. I've gone the other route and it was a major PITA.

[Fifty150hs]

Originally Posted by Bmwe5320023.0

Yeah this tool is $19 CAD, which is like $13 USD. Also amazon prime, so I can return it if it doesn't work. At this price point, nothing to lose.

If the splined shaft is too large for this tool, I can grind off the tool slightly so it will fit perfectly.

I will post back once I get the tool. May take a long time as all deliveries are very slow lately.

Popping the axle was super easy with a pry bar.

Ahh differential seals are pretty expensive, $43 each at the dealer

I'm debating if I should change the front bearings as well since I got everything apart. Looks like a crazy job

Just ordered an axle shaft seal from FCP Euro for $18. Genuine BMW.

[svvg]

There’s a sweet spot for smacking the drive shaft to separate it. If it wont pop apart with a hard smack (I used a foot long or bigger cold chisel, placed it on the centre point of the cage and smacked it with a bf hammer. I’m 5’10” and a runner rather than a meathead - so it’s not a strength thing) then rotate the shaft 20 degrees or so and try again etc until it separates with a whack. Aim the end into a bucket to catch it. From memory optimum angle of attack was to aim the shaft slightly back down towards the side of the car, approach from under the front and hit it towards the rear of the car with a sharp blow... I struggled for a while and then suddenly after turning it to the right point it just popped off. Same for both sides.

Now ball joints however. There’s NFW those bastards come apart with just a tap of a hammer. No idea how all the tv show mechanics get that sht to work.... have to use a massive separator every time!

[Lamby]

I fully respect you all for going to the effort of removing the drive shaft to do a CV boot change. I am not sure about other E53 x5's but mine absolutely eats CV boots, they go about every two years, three max and I got so fed up with the garage fee's and regularity of it that I ended up looking at a solution that works for me.

So I have cone and used stretchy boots that still require you to get the hub away from the axle/drive shaft but you do not need to remove the CV joint you just turn the boot inside out, lube the cone and boot then stretch it over. Kinda works well and requires some force, took me two hours to do one side at home. Jack up, wheel off, unbolt hub from driveshaft, fit then reinstall. so it was a ball ache.

Now the best thing I have found in terms of skill level ( i.e. fairly moderate ) and time is the sticky CV boots. Again if you are just doing this for a boot replacement its totally fine, but you need to get your CV joint off then you are going to need to get it of the drive shaft so might as well use a regular boot.

Bailcast do a sticky CV boot, I was not sure about this but in essence it has a grove all the way down the boot where its split. Firstly with these kits cleanliness really is next to godliness and you start with cutting the old boot off and cleaning, use a wire brush and brake cleaner and shop towel until all grease rust and dust is gone. Once the shaft is clean get some clingflim, celowrap or shrink wrap and wrap you axle to protect it from glue as grease and glue are not best friends. You get super glue in the kit which works but I add nitrile rubber weld to this to as soon as the boot is in place on the shaft in order to start a compound reaction with the rubber of the boot for extra strength. Effectively this compound reacts with the air and the rubber, gets hot and welds the rubbers together. It smells pretty bad. But once this is all done you can repack the CV joint with grease (sure its only from one side but I pack it in and wiggle and rotate so coverage is ok) Then remove the plastic wrap off the axel then pack a bit more grease into the boot, not full but a bit more. Then I use quality CV clamps from my local auto parts store, they are manufactured by British Knights and they are the adjustable ear banded type, thick metal, good teeth and holes to bite into and you crimp them tight with the tool. I think they are Truck ones really. Then you get worm gear CV clamps and the metal band ones that are like cable ties which IMO are rubbish. You get some in the kit but the look pretty cheap to me.

So... I last did this about two years ago and both fronts are still on, took me 2 hours for both drivers and passenger side. no wheels off etc just lift car and go to work. The glueing of the boot (once you cut the boot to size) is best done like welding metal. Do a little at a time in spots so you are in the groove then go back and then run seam or bead down the joint, then go back with Rubber weld straight after and get out and have a cup of tea as it starts to smell bad. Once that has cured, 30 mins, you can NOT rip that boot off. I have tried, it's seriously on.

Anyway, that's what I do for a CV Boot, the down side is that if I don't get the hub and axel off regularly, when it comes to getting it off it will most likely be ceased super tight! and that will bite me in the ass.