What did you do to / for your E53 today??

[Purplefade]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

I made this:









A roller bearing upgrade for my 30 ton in-place bearing press. I have two upcoming bearing jobs: front for me, rear for wife. I completely forgot I had bought these 1" roller bearings a couple years ago. It's not optimized for thrust so in order to beef up the strength I u buddy turn a steel donut to hold the outer race so it wouldn't self destruct.

That is impressive! And just has to make things that much easier. Haven’t done a bearing yet, which is more “fun” front or rear?

[andrewwynn]

Front requires more power the 1" bolt was necessitated from the first three 3/4" bolts that came with the bearing press being "single use". A grade 8 3/4 may have helped but the ones out could find III think were grade 5.

With the 1" bolt the front is an easier job mostly because in the back it's a bear to get to the e-torx bolts that hold the bearing assembly to the car.

Both jobs well within typical DIY. I plan to take some measurements so people can make their own press.

I want to see what kind of torque is required (going to try to use a 3/4" ratchet by hand) since the last time I just used my big impact tool.

The first couple times I used long extension and ratchet but lots of heat on the knuckle to break it loose. After applying what amounted to a calculated 35,000# the bearing didn't move.

I heated the knuckle to about 240°F and the bearing snapped into motion with a literal BANG as loud as if you just snapped a 1/2" bolt. I thought something broke.

The third and 4th bearings I did I had the 1" bolt and the 750 ft·lb impact so the personal effort dropped 90%.

I'm going to make some how-to guides for both front and back.

I'm working on a non-destructive way to remove the front hub without a slide hammer. I don't recommend using a slide hammer on the front lest you damage one of the FOUR ball joints that are attached to the bearing carrier (knuckle). My usual method is using long 14mm bolts through the lug holes but that destroys the dust cap behind the hub. I'm trying to invent a way to use a push press from inside and push the hub out.

[srmmmm]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

I made this:








A roller bearing upgrade for my 30 ton in-place bearing press. I have two upcoming bearing jobs: front for me, rear for wife. I completely forgot I had bought these 1" roller bearings a couple years ago. It's not optimized for thrust so in order to beef up the strength I u buddy turn a steel donut to hold the outer race so it wouldn't self destruct.

Andrew - good idea, but a flat thrust roller bearing is really what you need. The tapered roller is very limited on its axial load capacity (think of older cars with tapered front wheel bearings and typical bearing pre-loads of 12-15 lb ft and then backing off one notch) and I think you'll find it binds up before you're able to get a high enough torque on the bolt to be effective. It's worth a try though, so let us know if it's successful.

[andrewwynn]

I'm aware I even joked with my buddy there is a good chance the rollers will lock Into the race and make 20 little dents that just start to turn the whole part I just made.

The bearing cost me $1.50 and I made the donut to hold it for free. I still have the bronze thrust bushing as plan B if the bearing fails.

I estimated with the sharp angles of the rollers that 30,000# linear becomes 150-200,000# sideways so with 80,000 psi steel i need 2.5 SQ in. That's nearly exactly the size of the donut so that will hold. The weak link is the bearing/race interface as there will be a stupid amount of pressure. I may be inventing a "20-sided torx bolt/tool" as the bearings are pressed into the race.

I'm considering using the bronze bushing for the initial break and switching to the roller after to increase my odds.


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[SunnyDaze]

I hit 190K yesterday!

Not all today, but, this week: New Meyle front rotors and OEM pads. New passenger side door carrier. Fixed the broken passenger window switch. New 6K low beams. Lubed up the steering joint. New oil & filter. Added a few ounces of refrigerant. New cabin air filter. Polished the heck out of the headlamps.

In general, all the rear suspension is new including subframe bushings, the front suspension is 80% new, the body is extremely clean, the interior is near mint, it still drives and handles fantastic. Sooner or later my transfer case will call it quits. I've got a backup waiting. I'm getting the "clunk" when shifting from reverse to drive or vice versa.

[mr_robot]

Chili Red vs Imola Red


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[ngad6890]

Spotted another 4.8is


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[snik]

Mine is getting full detail. Paint correction. Ceramic coat. Leather treatment. Everything.
Waaaay overdue.


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[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by snik

Mine is getting full detail. Paint correction. Ceramic coat. Leather treatment. Everything.
Waaaay overdue.

Who's doing it for you Rhon? She's going to look gooooooood afterwards.

[amancuso]

Mine has been sitting for the past few days awaiting a new rear driver's side airbag. It has an intermittent leak depending on how the bag sits.