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  #10911  
Old 05-14-2019, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overboost View Post
I bought these and had the muffler shop weld them on to my 3.0L mufflers. You need to shorten the tips by cutting all the 2.5" inlet almost all the way to the "Y" and then leave just enough tip on the 3.0L muffler to weld to. All in was about $200. $70 plus shipping on the tips and around $100 at the muffler shop.

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I like them. Does it change the sound any?
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  #10912  
Old 05-14-2019, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fifty150hs View Post
I like them. Does it change the sound any?
No sound difference at all. All the "muffling" is done before the tips. Just looks better than the ED tips on the 3.0L.
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  #10913  
Old 05-14-2019, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Overboost View Post
No sound difference at all. All the "muffling" is done before the tips. Just looks better than the ED tips on the 3.0L.
That's for sure!
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  #10914  
Old 05-16-2019, 12:50 AM
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I bought my 4.8is about a week and a half ago. One major point of contention is that the brakes and brake system were so terrible and unsafe that I made a point to address this issue soon. As you can see by the photos provided, the rear rotors and pads were shot. Deep gouging along the surface, strange pad wear near the outer circumference, tons of rust. The front rotors were warped enough to cause pulsation under heavy or prolonged braking. In addition to pads and rotors, I also did an entire brake fluid flush as the pedal feel was also off to me. Low and behold, the fluid was turning brown and I had air in the lines on both the passenger rear and front. Passenger rear fluid had particulate in it.

The parts I used were from ebay seller brake_overstock. I didnít feel it necessary to go OEM or something from Pelican. There are tons of reviews regarding the QC of this brand so Iíll spare the details and internet arguments. Fluid was ATE super blue (which I prefer to use in all my BMWís). Price including shipping for four rotors, four sets of pads and 1L of ATE was $250. I reused the wear sensors without issue. Just pop them off the old pads and pop them into the new ones. Total installation time with one-person bleeding was about 2.5 hrs. Bedding took about five minutes following the manufacturer recommendation. Driving this afternoon, everything works nicely. My preference tends to be blanks, but for the price decided to give this setup a try.

Rear assembly


Close-up of rear rotor


New rear rotor and ceramic brake pads


New front rotor and pads


Front pass wheel

Last edited by X5M-ISH; 05-16-2019 at 02:58 PM.
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  #10915  
Old 05-16-2019, 02:34 AM
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What did you do to / for your E53 today??

Holy shit.
Wouldn't be shocked if one of those calipers was sticky.
I'd keep a close eye on the new pads to see if they're wearing evenly.


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Last edited by snik; 05-16-2019 at 02:23 PM.
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  #10916  
Old 05-16-2019, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X5M-ISH View Post
I bought my 4.8is about a week and a half ago. One major point of contention is that the brakes and brake system were so terrible and unsafe that I made a point to address this issue soon. As you can see by the photos provided, the rear rotors and pads were shot. Deep gouging along the surface, strange pad wear near the outer circumference, tons of rust. The front rotors were warped enough to cause pulsation under heavy or prolonged braking. In addition to pads and rotors, I also did an entire brake fluid flush as the pedal feel was also off to me. Low and behold, the fluid was turning brown and I had air in the lines on both the passenger rear and front. Passenger rear fluid had particulate in it.

The parts I used were from ebay seller brake_overstock. I didnít feel it necessary to go OEM or something from Pelican. There are tons of reviews regarding the QC of this brand so Iíll spare the details and internet arguments. Fluid was ATE super blue (which I prefer to use in all my BMWís). Price including shipping for four rotors, four sets of pads and 1L of ATE was $250. I reused the wear sensors without issue. Just pop them off the old pads and pop them into the new ones. Total installation time with one-person bleeding was about 2.5 hrs. Bedding took about five minutes following the manufacturer recommendation. Driving this afternoon, everything works nicely. My preference tends to be blanks, but for the price decided to give this setup a try.
Jeez, what Snik said. Good job getting those off the truck. Keep an eye on the calipers for sure. I guess if you aren't getting any pulling or dragging you're in the clear. Also, where did you find Super Blue? I thought the feds outlawed colored brake fluid... because you know, people willing to do their own brakes can't find the right reservoir for it.

I've used brake overstock before. No problems. Been using Brake Motive now for the last 5ish years with the same results. Similarly priced. Can't beat a full brake setup with ceramic pads for the 4.8 for $230.
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  #10917  
Old 05-16-2019, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snik View Post
Holy shit.
Indeed. I knew this buying the truck. During the test drive with the PO I told him flat out that ďthe brakes are shitĒ and used that (and a few other things) to haggle on price. Though, the backside of the rotors are worse which I didnít see at first. Irrespective, I knew this would be dealt with soon with new parts.


Quote:
Originally Posted by crystalworks View Post
Keep an eye on the calipers for sure. Also, where did you find Super Blue? I thought the feds outlawed colored brake fluid.
Can't beat a full brake setup with ceramic pads for the 4.8 for $230.
I am...Iíll rebuild those if they are pressing stupid. With all the new seals and a dremel this can be done in half a day with rebleeding..or maybe pick up some used rear calipers and swap them out.

Super blue can be had online. There are German and UK sellers with stock on hand. Occasionally you will find someone in the US selling it. Of course...youíre not breaking a federal law unless the feds arest you for it! On a more serious note, federal law requires brake fluid to be amber in color, no acceptions. Ate was selling super blue as a compliant fluid even though it obviously wasnít. Being the stubborn Germans that they are they said Ďf this nonsense, weíre not changing or relabeling anything for the US governmentí. They very well can sell/market super blue as a race-online non-compliant brake fluid but donít. Also, if you want you can dye your own brake fluid using a glycol friendly dye. It doesnít take much.

Agreed. The price and quality is a no-brainer. Happy wrenching!

Last edited by X5M-ISH; 05-16-2019 at 12:25 PM.
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  #10918  
Old 05-16-2019, 02:08 PM
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167,000 niles and still looks good from 10 feet away

3 more layers of Klasse sealant glaze today.

It is still early in the detailing season here in the Northeast

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  #10919  
Old 05-16-2019, 09:09 PM
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Just bought this bad boy...



My X5 has developed a bad engine rumble/whine when cold (and it's cold here!) that goes away once the engine warms up. I can also hear the viscous fan coupling run-on once I turn off the (warmed-up) engine and the coupling bearings sound like crap. I'm going to pull the coupling (and fan) off and drive the car to see if that's the culprit (pretty sure it is). Will remove belts and check all pulleys/tensioners etc. too, while I'm in there. Water pump, alternator and power-steering are also possibilities but I'll start with the easy items first!!
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  #10920  
Old 05-17-2019, 12:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpoll View Post
the viscous fan coupling
Donít forget to use the super long flat-head screwdriver trick to bust that 32 mm nut loose.
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