What did you do to / for your E53 today??

[sandbagger]

counterweight is part of the system too

pretty amazing to see crash tests and what happens

Originally Posted by 80stech

Actually the counterweight on the carrier, not the cable, keeps the door from opening on a side impact.
I'm not a Detroit car door engineer though

[X5chemist]

Pulled out an accessory to the "cold weather" package.
We are not prepared for long stretches of cold weather!
I need one from Greer, SC!

[c-bass]

Today the wife calls me telling me her speakers were screaming static at her and apparently the car died.

I removed the fuse from the radio chasing down a battery drain a while back and the car started up and ran fine minutes earlier.

A quick google says check the rear compartment where the amp is for water

sure enough I pull the cover off and feel water on the back of it, however due to our recent weather the bottom is just a solid block of ice and I don't have any indoor space to park it. Yay!

Only thing I could do was to unplug the wiring harness so hopefully that will prevent the speakers from screaming.

We'll see how the car behaves tomorrow.

I'm nervous about the CCV I replaced last year when it froze solid

[guntherrex]

X5 was parked for 2 weeks... battery was dead, like really dead.

Just had it replaced but probably need to look for a parasitic drain somewhere... anyone have any experience with this?

Also I cleared all the codes but the yellow lights for the starter and ABS/ESC stay on... can't find any codes regarding this. weird.

[Factory6speed]

There are some good "troubleshoot a parasitic draw like a pro" type videos on the you tube. I've not had to do it yet, but any day now.

The abs codes are not in the DME. Is your scanner doing the entire car? I have a little Bluetooth thing that only does the DME. I have been playing around with this topdon topscan, $60 Bluetooth scanner, not bad, but I might just stick with ISTA.

I am in the process of fixing a soft break pedal. Repeated attempts to bleed aren't doing it. It stops, but the pedal isn't right. I can't find any leaks. The master cylinder is suspect, and I see rust on the booster. When I came to a hard stop the idle fluctuated strangely.

Ordered a new reservoir, master cylinder, booster, rear pads and rotors (did the fronts last year). Debating on the rear calipers. Ordered the nickel copper line and some flaring/bending tools.

The dealer quoted me 5k to replace the brake pipes, talking about dropping the rear subframe and gas tank, which I've since found out is not really necessary. just the only way they are authorized to do it. Hopefully I can pull this off. I figure if I can build a short block, I can replace some long metal pipes. I found some good threads here in the archives on this, looks easy enough.

[andrewwynn]

After a dead battery situation, you have to recalibrate the steering angle sensor. without moving very fast, I usually go like a mile an hour steer lock to lock twice.

[Effduration]

Originally Posted by guntherrex

X5 was parked for 2 weeks... battery was dead, like really dead.

Just had it replaced but probably need to look for a parasitic drain somewhere... anyone have any experience with this?

Also I cleared all the codes but the yellow lights for the starter and ABS/ESC stay on... can't find any codes regarding this. weird.

Do a full parasitic drain test...Don't pull fuses- probe them, and just because my drain was the sunroof, don't guess that yours is also.

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...oogle_vignette

[andrewwynn]

I didn't replace the cross over pipe over the rear axle.

I made new pipes from copper nickel.

If you use the bender with 3 sizes you can use the old one as a guide in the 1/4" slot and the new one in the 3/16 and make an exact copy.

You'll need a proper iso flare tool. They are cheap but cheaply made, clean up the threads and mating surfaces and it'll work 5x as good.

You'll need both sizes of fittings

The trick to attaching to the cross over is using a pair of crow foot flare sockets.

I did a write up but can't remember if it's a stand alone thread. Lots of details photos.

Cost about $100-120 including the tools. I didn't replace the front sections from the abs block to the first set of unions under the front left seat (driver seat USA).

[andrewwynn]

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...placement.html

That's the best thread on brake lines.

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0SGhtLJ3JIy2hw

My photo album of when i did mine. I only replaced the main sections between the wheel wells (and over the left rear).




One of my favorite tips ever! Exact clone of 3/16 nicop brake line using a $10 line bender.

If you look at the bottom left you'll see where i taped the two lines together as i progressed. The clone fit exactly. I did have to temporarily add and remove a bend to get around the wheel arch.



I forgot also need to use a universal.

[Factory6speed]

Yeah, I saw those threads the other day. I knew this would be discussed a few times.

That is the bending tool for sure, thank you for sharing that idea. I ordered that and some line fittings etc from Amazon. I think the hardest part is just going to be fishing the lines in and out of the chassis. I'll have to waste some and practice but it doesn't look that hard.

I found the Cornwall flaring set on eBay for a pretty good price. It looks like $150 for a nice set of used metric crows feet on eBay. A bunch of sets are missing the 11mm. For hand tools now I have a hard time not buying nicer stuff. I spent my twenties rounding fasteners off with cheap hand tools. I guess I could use these for some other things. It'd be nice to use a torque wrench on the high pressure fuel lines. But I'll probably never really use them beyond this job.