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2011 M3 2006 Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison 2004 X5 3.0i 6MT 1995 M3 S50B32 1990 325is 1989 M3 S54B32 Hers: 1989 325iX 1996 911 Turbo |
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Quote:
I don't know jack about 3d printing. https://www.instructables.com/Simple...nt-HUGE-Parts/ Sent from my SM-A528B using Tapatalk
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"When the Team Chief said.... You're trapped in a hole with nothing but a goat and a slinky, what do you do? Stubby said, I'm not sure but it won't end well for the goat...." ~(Overheard) Last day, Phase 3, Q Course |
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Quote:
1) A conveyor belt is a big add on that will cost a lot to do correctly. 2) You'd need to rotate the piece to do a wheel arch. So a conveyor belt wouldn't work as you'd need a fairly complex motion. Basically, the dimensions are too big for home 3D printing. And, again, amount of time that it takes to CAD one of these pieces is pretty significant. How many hours is it worth to save $175? How much would you spend to have the ability to do that? Realistically, the kind of 3D printers that *might* be capable of replicating *this* piece start well north of $10k. (It might actually be pushing $100k.) And don't forget that the 3D printed piece would require finishing after all this. For a one off piece, you'd probably be better off hand fabricating in fiberglass.
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2011 M3 2006 Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison 2004 X5 3.0i 6MT 1995 M3 S50B32 1990 325is 1989 M3 S54B32 Hers: 1989 325iX 1996 911 Turbo |
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yeah I replaced the rivet already but the plastic pins going into the body seem to be wiggling loose. I guess I'll bite the bullet and order a new one with a pack of BMW rivets to make sure
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Finally was able to drain my transfer case.
It's something I've been wanting to do since I first got my car a little over a year ago, but the drain plug was so tight that it started to round off. I put it to the side since I needed to drop the transmission crossmember to really get to the bolt. So yesterday, I removed the exhaust, dropped the transmission cross member, and tried to get the bolt off. I used penetrant first with no luck. Then I used a torch and tried rocking the torque back and forth, using a hammer, etc. Eventually I felt like the socket was just about to give up on the bolt head, so I switched to an easy out and a 6' breaker bar. Still no luck, so I cut the head off the bolt and then notched a slot in it. I used a chisel and hammer to rotate it out. What a pain! New bolt vs. old bolt in 2 pieces:
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__________________ 2006 X5 4.8is |
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Wow! An air hammer time! Or a manual impact. Both work great!
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'06 X5 3.0i - bought @143,123 miles (12/26/20) |
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I haven't needed it yet, but i'm looking "forward" to the opportunity to try this:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mayhew-37...eaker/47445511
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2011 M3 2006 Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison 2004 X5 3.0i 6MT 1995 M3 S50B32 1990 325is 1989 M3 S54B32 Hers: 1989 325iX 1996 911 Turbo |
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Doh! Totally forgot about my air hammer lol. But I think an impact would have stripped that thing out quicker... the threads were just sort of rounded off from when i tried removing it using an open-ended wrench while the crossmember was still on the car.
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__________________ 2006 X5 4.8is |
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That's what makes the shake n break interesting. It's just hammering on the fastener to loosen it up. You turn it with a wrench when it gets loose.
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2011 M3 2006 Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison 2004 X5 3.0i 6MT 1995 M3 S50B32 1990 325is 1989 M3 S54B32 Hers: 1989 325iX 1996 911 Turbo |
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