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  #661  
Old 04-22-2015, 06:14 PM
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Too bad I just found out my DISA is bad. Flapper has zero tension left. Just moves freely very easily. GAS kit on its way. I have zero codes and zero pending codes nor a SEL.
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  #662  
Old 04-23-2015, 09:43 AM
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GAS kit is the shit. I put the kit on my original valve last year in 10 mins. Take your time scraping out the old O-ring (molded on the housing) as well, I hate the molded seal on the factory DISA
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  #663  
Old 04-23-2015, 10:06 AM
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Absent codes, squid, how did you identify the failure? Did you just inspect the DISA while doing something else? I see no symptoms,but am tempted to just order the repair kit and fix it when I next change oil as a PM measure .....
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  #664  
Old 04-23-2015, 10:12 AM
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^^Riggo, do the tests on the DISA using the GAS instructions, step #4 to be exact.

My flapper was still in good shape but I did the kit as preventative, wanted to replace the seal and make sure the pin could not fall out of the stock DISA anymore

BMW M54 DISA Repair Kit DIY
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  #665  
Old 04-23-2015, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riggodeaux View Post
Absent codes, squid, how did you identify the failure? Did you just inspect the DISA while doing something else? I see no symptoms,but am tempted to just order the repair kit and fix it when I next change oil as a PM measure .....
I removed it as part of my own inspection. I want the engine to be running in top condition since it only has 225 HP and I think the X needs every last one of those ponies.
Then watched some videos where they had a new and bad disa side by side. My flapper has zero tension. It just moves moves freely back and forth. In the videos the new one would spring back . I guess there is supposed to be tension in it. So I figured, might as well buy the kit.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UMoQ03IUFiE Mine was exactly like the old one he took out of his wifes car.
I am going to clean the ICV as well since I doubt that has ever been done.

I have been using a motorcycle detailer ( I have 7 bikes) I bought (Honda brite) to clean the engine bay. That stuff is safe for and protects rubber, plastic, vinyl, paint. Everything. Except belts I am sure. If I am going to be working in that bay I want it clean so I don't get dirty just from reaching around in there. Oh yeah, I also bought the GAS cap for the cooling system.
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Last edited by squidzilla; 04-23-2015 at 06:07 PM.
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  #666  
Old 04-23-2015, 01:42 PM
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Thanks, squid, at $100 or so, I'm thinking I'll order the repair kit with the 1.2 bar coolant cap and just do it. I wish they'd get around to finalizing the CCV fix for M54s ....
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  #667  
Old 04-23-2015, 02:01 PM
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If yours flaps freely around like mine you will have to test your vacuum pot using step 11. Removing that DISA was the easiest thing. Torx 40, small extension. That's it. It took me a few minutes to figure out how to remove the electric connection thing. There is a metal spring clip behind it. Just push it in and lift up the connector towards the sky. That's it.
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  #668  
Old 04-23-2015, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riggodeaux View Post
Thanks, squid, at $100 or so, I'm thinking I'll order the repair kit with the 1.2 bar coolant cap and just do it. I wish they'd get around to finalizing the CCV fix for M54s ....
Don't hold your breath for it Riggo, the body will rust out before its ready. The CCV is extremely complex.

Closest fix I've seen is the direct PCV valve in line between the manifold and valve cover, and cap everything else. However, long term effects have not been known to the engine (it may allow too much vaccuum), but it looks promising, as well as simple, and cheap.
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  #669  
Old 04-23-2015, 03:55 PM
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I was going to wait to do my ccv in hopes they will have the GAS version ready this year. Watch me do it and then it comes out.
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  #670  
Old 04-23-2015, 03:59 PM
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I won't mess with a half-arsed ccv fix, though I would trust a G.A.S. solution. I haven't looked for a ccv r&r DIY, but probably should, as much as mine is drinking syn oil like a sailor drinking hooch on shore leave ......
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