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#391
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I have yet to finish my enclosure, but it's something I will definately have finished this weekend. I mocked up a cardboard version of Zero's box, and while I understand why for ease of removal, installation and production, I was surprised how much room was left around on the sides and front to rear fitment. You're lucky enough to have an enclosure that is made to the same dimensions as the factory DSP enclosure, so i'm sure you'll have a hair more internal volume than mine after it's done. Zero's box is way easy to make and since it's mostly square, it would have taken me no time at all. The cutouts i'm doing are leaving as little room as possible for gaps, having more angled faces instead of squaring them off, and it's gonna be a tight fit pulling it in and out. I've also taken a Sawzall (raised eyebrows from the neighbors ) and trimmed lips and edges from where the enclosure will mount so I have less cuts to make in the wood. I bought a few more cans of sound deading spray, so now it's just a matter of finishing the upper portion of the enclosure, glueing/screwing/routering/spraying it w/ rubberizer and shoving it in.
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650hp 10 X5///M - Stage 2, Vibrant 1794's , gutted cats, custom intake, AC Forged 22's 325hp 98 BMW 740iL - ///M5 6spd, www.bavengine.com w/ Performance Option, electric fan, CF intake tube w/ heatshield, Mag 14816 w/ notched bumper, Bilstein/H&R Stage II/Powerflex 600+hp 02 Harley F150 - MHP900 Stage 3 engine, KB2.3, 8# lower, 60# inj, Walbro FP's 135hp 01 TL1000R - M4 full exhaust, K&N, Yosh box, -1/+2 gears, 2CT's
Last edited by m5james; 01-18-2010 at 10:59 PM. |
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#392
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What do you guys do w/ all those old factory subwoofer enclosures? I've seen people take and Dremel off the face and fiberglas/MDF a new panel then mount a different subwoofer.
I'm constructing my own MDF box now, but I'd imagine the factory subwoofer enclosure being molded out of plastic will utilize more airspace than either your or my enclosure could ever use. The only downside I see of the plastic enclosure is...it's plastic, so I'd imagine it flexes like crazy.
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650hp 10 X5///M - Stage 2, Vibrant 1794's , gutted cats, custom intake, AC Forged 22's 325hp 98 BMW 740iL - ///M5 6spd, www.bavengine.com w/ Performance Option, electric fan, CF intake tube w/ heatshield, Mag 14816 w/ notched bumper, Bilstein/H&R Stage II/Powerflex 600+hp 02 Harley F150 - MHP900 Stage 3 engine, KB2.3, 8# lower, 60# inj, Walbro FP's 135hp 01 TL1000R - M4 full exhaust, K&N, Yosh box, -1/+2 gears, 2CT's
Last edited by m5james; 01-08-2010 at 07:21 PM. |
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#393
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I had a failed attempt at installing my amp today that left me scratching my head. I have an Alpine MRP-450 Amp and Two type-E's in parallel left over from my e46. I tried connecting them today, but no sound.
I have an '03 X5, with nav, but no DSP. I used the snap connectors, with hookup-wire i got from RadioShack. I thought I connected the amp correctly. But when I tested it out, the subs didn't make any sound at all. When I turn the radio on, the amp turns on so at least i know for sure the remote wire was hooked up right. Could it be the connectors and they aren't getting a good enough connection? Not sure what is wrong. What am I missing? |
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#394
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The snap connectors are not good ... they did the same with me at my first attempt ... try to make a direct connection to the amp wires
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BMW 1M 2012 - Current Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 2011 - Current BMW E93 330i Convertible 2009 - Sold BMW E46 320i 2004 - Sold BMW X5 4.4i 2002 - Sold VW Golf GTI 2000 - Sold BMW 740i 1996 - Sold |
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#395
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Agreed, those tap-in connectors are no good. I would recommend the t-tap connectors though, much easier to use IMO.
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#396
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![]() ![]() My method was to cut the amp wire, bare the ends of course, slide on a length of shrink tubing, solder all three ends together and then slide the tubing up and shrink it. You can see it makes a nice, small and clean connection. And it is reliable, unlike the snap connectors. Never have had much luck with them. |
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#397
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Most of the DIY stuff needed for professional results can be found here.
Select Products - Car Audio Installation Materials |
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#398
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Quote:
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650hp 10 X5///M - Stage 2, Vibrant 1794's , gutted cats, custom intake, AC Forged 22's 325hp 98 BMW 740iL - ///M5 6spd, www.bavengine.com w/ Performance Option, electric fan, CF intake tube w/ heatshield, Mag 14816 w/ notched bumper, Bilstein/H&R Stage II/Powerflex 600+hp 02 Harley F150 - MHP900 Stage 3 engine, KB2.3, 8# lower, 60# inj, Walbro FP's 135hp 01 TL1000R - M4 full exhaust, K&N, Yosh box, -1/+2 gears, 2CT's
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#399
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Does anyone know the factory amp's output (watts)? I have a DSP system with factory subwoofer enclosure. Was considering the possibility of modifying the factory enclosure to house a single 10" subwoofer. I was also considering a relatively low-power DVC sub that can be powered by the factory sub amp output.
Any thoughts? Thanks. |
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#400
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Some have just taken the stock enclosure, cut the face off and fiberglasses a piece of MDF on in order to mount a 10". Many people keep asking about going up to a 12", but a good 10" in the right airspace will always sound better than a 12" in too much airspace. If you're going to go through all the trouble, just pick up a nice 300 something watt monoblock amp like I did for $80.
__________________
650hp 10 X5///M - Stage 2, Vibrant 1794's , gutted cats, custom intake, AC Forged 22's 325hp 98 BMW 740iL - ///M5 6spd, www.bavengine.com w/ Performance Option, electric fan, CF intake tube w/ heatshield, Mag 14816 w/ notched bumper, Bilstein/H&R Stage II/Powerflex 600+hp 02 Harley F150 - MHP900 Stage 3 engine, KB2.3, 8# lower, 60# inj, Walbro FP's 135hp 01 TL1000R - M4 full exhaust, K&N, Yosh box, -1/+2 gears, 2CT's
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