No more amber! Now tell us about the reinstall/resealing process :)

if you have nav, then program clock sync to GPS.
program highbeam together with bixenon - different from highbeams with fogs.
have window keep rolling up/down when doors ajar.
if you have LED taillights, try LED taillight option in programming.
gong when key in ignition.

I thought the process was going to be a real pain in the ass but I had each assembly sealed up in 5 minutes. I did not need the epoxy or really any extra adhesive. I only used a spot of adhesive to hold the corner section black plastic housing onto the main black plastic housing, no big deal. When I made the original cut I made a zig zag on two opposite corners so when I later when to put it back on it would have a shape to guide the positioning. I had my brother line up and hold each corner so I can go ahead and seal them.

So I got the Butyl tape, a good scissor, and a heat gun. Each piece of "tape" that you cut can be stretched to twice it size without compromising sealing coverage. I took the piece of tape and heated it up a bit with the heat gun just so I can stretch as I apply. Once I stretched an placed the tape as I wanted I made sure that it was centered over the cut on the assembly. After that I used the heat gun to make the butyl more pliable, it begins to look like it has condensation (not sweating or melting, that's too much). I used a paint mixer wooden spatula to then push down and spread. It begins to smear without being too gooey and you can can shape it to look really clean.

You just keep doing sections and overlap them as you go around. I used about 6 different sections just to be cautious and have less of a chance to worry about heating and cooling of the butyl. I let it cool down a few minutes and then I lightly heated all of the butyl up again and used my fingers to push down into the cut gap just to be sure there was no possibility of an open seal. I then it cool for about 30 minutes and put the assembly under the shower head for 20 seconds and moving it around without letting any water in through the back panel. No water came in through any of the seal and it was done.

Thanks for the recommendations, definitely noted. :thumbup:

wow sounds solid man nice job!

Thanks. Also, I tried my hardest to rip off the lens just to see how strong it was. It didn't move 1mm. Very happy with the butyl tape. As its been documented by other people on here, it really is the only appropriate solution to sealing them.

last question so did you press the cut halves back together, lay the butyl tape over top and melt it into the gaps and on top of the cut section to make it go together, or did you put the butyl tape in the cut section and press the halves together, then heat it all up?

Thank you, epdarks.
:beerchug:

Oh man NICE! great job on the headlights. Top work :thumbup:

XCUSM5: Those corners look like they turned out nicely! :thumbup:
Would you have any other pics of those carbon grilles though?? Where'd you get them?

IMO, the proper way to seal the housing back up with butyl is to wrap a bead in its entirety around the black portion of the housing; pop it in the oven for a couple mins to get it good and soft (uniformly warm) then push the clear lens into the bead....that way you get a seal with complete coverage. I don't think XCUSM5 could seal it that way though as it looks like he cut the lens to open the housing (rather than the bit of the black lip we spoke about previously).

XCUSM5, Just be careful come summer because while butyl will hold decently at room temperature, its a different story at elevated temps...:)