try looking into the bearings (front). I have also heard of tires that will not stay balanced. My neighbor is fighting the tire shop aver this. Will only stay balanced for a hundred miles or so.

I ended up replacing both the hub and bearing. Only one side though. Close to $400 at indi. Dealership would be twice that much.

fresh rubber

Lesson Learned!
 

Back in March/April I replaced:

- Lower Front control arms
- Sway Links
- Tie Rods

with MTC brand parts from ECS (not ecs fault) and here I was today replacing them AGAIN and it hasn't been 5/6 months (3,000 miles). I tried to cut corners by being cheap and I have learned my lesson. I purchased Febi control arms, Febi ball joints, Lemfoerder sways and tie rods and the difference is night and day. I will be sending back the old defective parts to ECS for a warranty claim because even though they are cheaply made parts, I don't think they should have deteriorated that fast.

I will also be replacing my front thrust arm bushings with Febi ones because I still have a slight shake when breaking from 60mph down and it is due to the PowerFlex poly bushings I have in there. I can live with the slight shake but my wife keeps nagging about it.

So do yourselves a favor and DO NOT PURCHASE MTC BRAND SUSPENSION PARTS. Spend more now and less in the long run.

Do you have a plan for pressing out old bushings and in the new ones?

Same as I did when I went from OEM bushings to PowerFlex polys, I took off entire arm and pressed them out at a shop with a hydraulic pump press. It was easy to do the powerflex, but I think my biggest challenge with the next will be getting them aligned in the sleeves. It is a no brainer to purchase the bushings, either Meyle Hd's or Febi's over the complete thrust arm w/bushing.

Installed Zimmerman coat z rotors and pbr deluxe pads. Install went well thanks to write ups on here!! Can't thank you guys enough for that. Found out before bedding in brakes with coat z you must lightly brake around town until you can't see anymore dull coating on rotor face. After 20km it's half gone. Can see a few deposit build ups though, but easily removed with a bit of muscle. Hope it doesn't build up to much before I can bed them in proper. Glad to have it done though. First wheel took over an hour and second about 30 min once you get the hang of it. Bought rotors and pads for front with 1L pentosin dot 4 lv for $323 can shipped free from Canada auto parts online. Rotors pads to door in 2 days and fluid a week. Best prices but awful support service.

cleaned the X both inside and out.i really need to take care of that water problem though...

New front rotors and pads (and wear sensor) from Advance Auto to match the new rear pads and rotors I put on 2 weeks ago. Searched the FAQ for torque specs and finally found them. After looking at a lot of options I went with Wager Thermoquiet pads and plain rotors. The old rotors were just slightly above wear limits so they got replaced. I don't use the X as a canyon carver--there are not many canyons in northeast Indiana--so I went with quality pads that have a lifetime warranty from a store that will be around for awhile, even if they might not provide the absolute ultimate in braking performance. After bedding in, they stopped fine. I'm also looking forward to a reduction in dust.
Bill

had some fun with VHT NIGHTSHADE.what i learned:tailights= worth it(don't do the reverse lights though).headlights= amazing unique look BUT NOT WORTH IT IN ANY WAY