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Fixed external mirror folding issue.
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Debadge day!
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Also need to respray most of the black plastic trim as the rubbery texture stuff is peeling. Have seen videos about using a variety of SEM products. Quote:
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I’ve been checking junk yards and online dismantlers looking for a set :(. No luck as of yet
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LOL for sure! :thumbup: |
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Def. not mm under the gas pedal but due to the necessity of a notch for the pedal there will be a pile of dust that collects from shoe. |
Replaced all front control arms. Alignment completed immediately after at NTB.
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Headlight day...
Before... :(
http://i67.tinypic.com/14neadv.jpg After... :D http://i63.tinypic.com/14lrezd.jpg This took about three or fours hours for both headlights. There seemed to be a layer of lacquerer on the lens that was eroded at the top edge so I hand sanded them and then used a Rain-X headlight restoration kit. Wet sand with 600 grit. Wet sand with 1000 grit. Wet sand with 1200 grit. Polish with Rain-X kit pad #1 and Rain-X lube. Polish with Rain-X kit pad #2 and Rain-X lube. Polish with Rain-X kit pad #3 and Rain-X lube. Wash and dry. Polish with Rain-X kit polish and microfibre cloth. Wash and dry. Polish with CRC Headlight Doctor polish. Wash and dry. Seal with Rain-X Headlight Sealer from kit. Knackered but pleased... :thumbup: |
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I had my control arm bushings and the related ball joints replaced along with an alignment. Car does drive better and felt a bit more solid. I'm sure there's other parts of the front end that also had various bushings and ball joints, but haven't done them yet. Can anyone else point out what those parts might be? I know another big job is the rear subframe bushing. Watched a few videos of the job online. |
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That's probably the best DIY headlight restoration I've seen. Mine aren't as bad but could do for a "touch up." Great Job.
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that layer of lacquer is actually a UV coating
while polishing them like that will make them look good again, it will be short lived. you really just need to sand all the old stuff down and take it to about an 800-1000 grit and then clear them with a UV clear paint like this stuff. 2K Clear coat - SprayMax its a 2 part epoxy with a high UV protection I did mine about 3 yrs ago and still look like new |
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I wanted to re-coat with another UV coating but cannot find anything suitable here in NZ. Still looking but in the meantime, I went with the Rain-X sealant as it is a UV protectant and there's tons in the bottle, allowing me to re-apply the sealant occasionally. We'll see how it goes... ;) |
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The only drawback is that once you mix the 2part(puncture an internal chamber) you have about 24hrs of use of it. A single can should do 2 sets of headlights easy..... |
Replaced lower control arms, front lower ball joints, Front tension strut arms, stabilizer bar links. Will have it aligned tomorrow along with tire balance.
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Some eBay sellers will but the cost gets stupid... I'll find something locally - this might work: - https://db1736767dbd5e7094bb-d61bbc5...46acb1ef31.jpg Product Detail Too cold here now to use products like this. This project will have to go on hold until next summer... ;) |
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I took a quick look at that clear, not a lot of info
you should email them and ask about any UV resistance/blockers in it.... I did see one post someplace saying it did but not how much, but probably better than nothing |
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I found an eBay seller in the US that will ship to Australia so maybe they will ship to NZ too - and if not I have family in Australia. ;) Thanks for the recommendation... :thumbup: |
PC yellows because of the UV.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
Noticing something weird.. the x5 can sit for a week sometimes and the rear driver side airbag doesn’t sag but then other times after sitting just over night it’s completely sagged and lost it’s air. Time to replace bag or should I be looking at other things?
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So to close this off, I'm going with this until the weather warms up later in the year...
https://www.elitecarcare.co.uk/wp-co...otectant-w.jpg Headlight protectant |
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If the rate of leak changes I would suspect a valve with a problem seat but a fold in the bag could self seal as well. Try some tests like park with left rear on a 4x4 then the right rear on a 4x4. If the leak rates changes from different loading almost sure the bag at fault. |
@wpoll I've used maguires for almost 30 years. Ever since I started riding motorcycles; the only thing I used to clear up hazing on my windscreen and face screen on my helmet. I'm sure that stuff is simply a clear UV film that melds into the plastic.
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2 lower arms with both bushings and ball joints included Garage: E53 4.4i M62 born 2003-03-04 [SOLD] E53 4.8iS N62s born 2006-03-16 E90 325i N52 born 2006-03-28 [TOTALED] F30 328i N20 born 2012-09-06 |
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Cool, thanks! I'll try that out. Did the oil pan gasket the other day... Today ordered VCG, timing cover gasket, vanos solenoid gasket, new serp belt, idler pulley, and will be doing the rear air bags the following week and THEN rear lower ball joint. Yeah... this is gonna be my summer camp/travel-mobile. Anyone know where I can get a good roof rack for a kayak? |
Visited the old E53 sold to a friend
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...edd65106f4.jpg |
Replaced my transmission pan, added 21 new bolts and new filter and while I was in there I also replaced the mech adapter seal and the 4 pick up tubes.
Was supposed to be a simple job but I used a cheap beck-arnley pan gasket and dimpled the bloody pan beyond recovery - hence the new pan. Learning a very valuable lesson I replaced the gasket with OEM and had no further problems. Sent from my iPhone using Xoutpost.com |
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A nice little $10 mod. LED replacement bulb for the glove box flashlight. Big difference, I was amazed how little light the stock incandescent bulb puts out. Let there be light! :thumbup:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/272153018501?rmvSB=true |
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That's nuts! Good find...putting this on my list for sure. :D |
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I second that - love it and so simple. Will be doing mine as well! Sent from my iPhone using Xoutpost.com |
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ProClip phone mount installed and ran charging cable through the dash.
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150,011 miles on 2006 6mt and going strong
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6 layers of Klasse Sealant Glaze for the season and still looks pretty good from 20 feet away
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So sexy
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Add 30mm H&R spacers to the rear, replaced coolant reservoir, and replaced the all three grommets on the windshield washer tank. Next up, clear bra removal, paint corrections, wheel refinish, front spacers and bluetooth streaming for music.
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It doesn't have a clear bra, it is the OEM version that rides
about 1/4 inch above the hood. I'll look into the maintenance items you suggested as far as the paint goes, I'll just leave it as is, I put on approx 6,000 miles a year traveling to ski areas in the Northeast, lots of salt and sand so any paint corrections would quickly be lost. Note: I don't run the 214 wheels in the winter, dedicated Pirelli scorpions on 18" 87's do pretty good in snow and ice. Rich |
My X has clear bra that the previous had installed over a decade ago. By paint correction, I'm basically going to have it detailed that includes wash, clay wax in addition to having the minor scuffs, scratches and other forms of imperfections removed. It's quite common actually. My X is pretty pampered considering how others use theirs so I think the paint correction will be worth it for the summer.
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oh that paint correction
my summer regimen -nanoskin mitten with no rinse wash to remove winter road grime -Klasse all in one, one coat -Klasse sealant glaze, normally 20 layers over the summer season. I've tried the newer products that produce a more brilliant reflection & shine but find the Klasse does a better job of hiding the dreaded swirl marks that are always part black paint. |
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...217e780b00.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7d2d611b72.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4525683872.jpgGot space to get on the lift done tonight!
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went to get the 4 wheel tracking done,
rears were slightly out , the front passenger side was off the scale (he was surprised my tyres hadn't shredded) front drivers were out as well, but not as bad bad news , is my adjustment nuts on the rear are seized solid ,so no adjustment on the rears, and the track rods are seized solid as well so , new tie rods bought , awaiting fitting then back to garage for alignment oh and I washed it as well hey ho , :) |
Fixed the rear wiper blade not touching the window.
Lubed the spring and then reinstalled the arm so the wiper sits flush to the surface of the glass. |
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agree. I can still get the wiper refills from my local Stealer but the price creeped up for a piece of rubber. And I got you beat, in Central Cali I get the sun and ALL the heat as well...
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I bought the rear 18” blade with wiper frame for 3.99 from the Walmart a few days ago. It will most likely last no more than a month, but I’m covered for the couple of times when the rain stops by.
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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3774a6f5a4.jpgMy daughter wanted to check for oil leaks...
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I love the lifts. Thinking about going with some quickjacks so they're moveable. all... I... have... to... do... is.... convince.... the wife...
can we talk about those M seats tho... :wow: |
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I put power vaders into my E36 Sedan and had them left over. So naturally I put casters on them for shop chairs. :dunno: |
I would have done the same thing.
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https://www.twinbusch.com/product_in...products_id=20 https://www.twinbusch.com/product_in...products_id=50 Drilled into the concrete in 28 locations... WORKS AWESOME. Could not be happier. Just wish I would have done it two years ago when I originally started to seriously consider it... |
: couple of Macs couple of iPhones?
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If you are asking me, I have way more than a couple apple products... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Bookmarked that for a future purchase... Nice garage setup. I have 0 Apple products. :D Wait, I take it back... we have an iPod Nano from back in the day that my wife won at work. |
[QUOTE=bhennrich;]If you are asking me, I have way more than a couple apple products...]
Back of the car has four stickers similar to how people use stick figures to represent family members. I was asking if you did similar to represent your family members. |
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I was being sarcastic... Two big apples are wife and I, two little apples are son and daughter. Need to add another small apple in January Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Finished up the timing cover gaskets on the 4.4. No more leaks so far. Still have to change the SERP belt and idler pulley but confused about the pulley I got in the mail that is larger than the one in the car...
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I suspect that account is spam... |
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Wrapped my cracking interior wood grain trim pieces with 3M 1080 Scotchprint Matte Gray Aluminum Vinyl Wrap. A few before and after pics below.
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you left the shift knob unwrapped... did you not want a black eye? lol |
Trim looks good!
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Nice job! |
Replaced the hood latches and cables. This is a 2002, new to me. I’m surprised how much disassembly was necessary, but impressed with the fit and tolerances of the vehicle. I learned a lot with this first fix. It’s certainly not a Jeep...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c789c870d2.jpg |
I'd you are willing to cut through the plastic arround the radiator you can reduce the labor 90% and it takes 30 minutes.
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I got our 4.6 an X5M to play with.
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That red 😍😍
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Geez I love those wheels... :drool: |
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Thanks man! Appreciate the idea and pointing me in the right direction for the wrap. The center consule was a PITA. All the other trim pieces popped right off and wrapping them was a breeze. Yep, you have to remove the WHOLE center console and unplug a bunch of stuff to get to that trim piece - since it unscrews from the underside. Nothing hard - just time...that took probably twice as long as the rest of the job all together. Found a couple of YouTube videos that walked through it. I did use the opportunity with it dissected to remove the rest of the textured overlay that has been pealing up from the cup holders and ash tray. So that looks a ton better now. Oh dang...I didn't even notice the shift knob LOL. Ok, guess I'm not done. :D |
Hahaha yeah. Wouldn’t happen to have that YouTube link handy would ya. I’ve looked and haven’t found anything of worth. Having it different bugs me but I don’t want to open it and break anything
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Funny thing happened last night. I was on my way home and the air suspension error popped up.
I went home and checked the rear tire pressures. The rear left was around 40+ while the rear right was around 34 psi. I pumped the rear right back to 40 psi and that seems to do the trick. The suspension error went away. Fingers crossed but the error did not come back today. |
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2002 X5 3.0 343,500 miles 2014 428i 37,800 miles 2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles 2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles 1970 Firebird Under restoration - waiting for a door :( |
What did you do to / for your E53 today??
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...301ce6d9b1.jpg
I built this for working on changing valves. Wasn't thrilled with the options available for compressing valve springs on M62 and made my own based on a $12 HF "universal" tool and a piece of copper pipe. I cut off one hook, modified the other side so it actually holds, I cut a slot that hooks onto the outside stud between the cylinders. Very happy with the results. I found a piece of plastic pipe that goes around the copper to make sure it stays centered. Awesome. |
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That is freakin awesome! You should sell those [emoji16] Sent from my iPhone using Xoutpost.com |
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Very nice! Very nice indeed. Is that Imola or Crimson Red? |
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Here you go - watch these in order: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yO3-J8llk7E https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_YbNQFkgQ8 This guy goes way overboard and removes the front seats and entire front dash - neither of which is necessary. He also removes the cup holders behind the center console and the side skirt(s) on the center console once he pulls it out of the car - also not necessary. This video also quickly highlights some of the steps (from ~ 1:30-2:25): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=St_S1xFv-mU Again, no need to mess with the dash as he is doing for a different purpose. Basically the steps are: 1. Remove armrest. 2. Pull out rear vents. 3. Pop off the lower carpet cover panels on the each side of center console - two on each side. 4. Remove the screws on the side (behind the carpet cover panels you just removed) that hold center console in place. Maybe 6 on each side if I recall. 5. Pop the trim bevel up that holds the parking brake leather boot in place (pressure tab at the front and back). 6. Pop the trim bezel up that is around the shifter knob leather boot. 7. Pop the large black trim bezel up that is around shifter knob assembly and set it aside. 8. Left up center console from rear to get access to underneath to unplug wires. Couple at shifter, two on drivers side, one at the ash tray for cigarette lighter, on to the middle for emergency flashers/door lock and a couple go back to the rear vents/cigarette lighter. 9. Pull parking brake ALL the way up and put it in Drive (with foot on brake pedal) to allow the clearance you will need to slide whole assemble up and out. Put it back in Park. 10. Once you get it out and flip it over you will see the screws that hold the cup holders and ashtray in and can remove them. Plus six tiny torx screws that hold a trim bracket for the underside of the shifter knob that needs to be removed. Finally you'll see the main screws that hold the wood trim piece in place. 11. Reassemble in reverse. |
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Tinted tails and side marker lenses with VHT Niteshades.
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Did you guys use lowering springs or go coilover. I heard lowering springs aren’t great for your shocks. Thoughts?
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Have had the H&R lowering springs in place for more than 5 years. No problem.
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More pix please. It looks stunning! |
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Fabricated new right rear brake "pipe" https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...befba6986e.jpg Cross section of my flare with new iso bubble flare tool vs factory. Pretty darn close. The tool was $23 from Amazon but it needed some significant help to make the tool usable. I made a video. It's pretty bad that I see a lot of "just use a double flare" or "cut out the rust and use a compression fitting". The entire pipe was made of rust. Time to replace! I'm hoping I'll be able to clean and paint wife's brake lines so I can avoid re fabricating hers. Darn I just remembered I need to buy 20 or so single use rivets to put my trim and wheel well back on. |
Awesome job!
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Somehow I forgot to mention that it was a hundred fifty bucks to buy the official brake lines from Amazon but it was only $37 for the parts and $22-23 for the tool. $60 total. You still have to bend the pipe either way. Cheap HF bender did a fine job. The is a special pliers for bending the tight radius . I might get that to do the left rear brake line there are a couple of bands that are really tight
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Mug root beer rulez!
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That’s so awesome that you said that I was going caption the photo it said powered by mug root beer
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I haven't posted in a while, but here's the last months activity.
- I installed a Dinan intake filter and crafted a heat shield for it out of a piece of an airbox from a f150 I used to have. Air intake temps run between 75-110°F now. Stock was 105-145. Intake without heat shield was 115-160. -I replaced my alternator that went out suddenly and replaced my serpentine belts. I also replaced the hose clamps on the power steering reservoir lines that leaked and caused the alternator to fail. -I replaced the expansion tank that started leaking and transmission thermostat that breaks when you take out the expansion tank. - I found and fixed a vacuum leak that was causing me lean CEL codes. It was a loose hose on the side of the intake boot. I also identified the cause of my rich code to be a bad cat. I'm going to end up replacing them with catless headers with a test pipe only. A guy will buy the cats for $50/ea and the headers will cost me ~$100. Free upgrade sincr I don't have emissions anymore it's worth it. Just got to get some spark plug defoulers to keep the O2 sensors happy. |
No Emissions.... Must Be Nice 😃
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Replaced the two rear o2 sensors and cleared the codes on Big Red with some help from Mouse who was visiting for the weekend. We got quite a bit accomplished between the wife's e70, the dinan x5, and his f30. LOL I wish I was more helpful Sunday morning (we didn't go to bed until ~ 5AM) but I was rather selfishly enjoying a mostly kid free weekend for Father's Day. ;) Got pretty hammered LOL. I made up for it Sunday afternoon though... grilled up some hot dogs, burgers, and salmon for all of us and the grand parents. :)
We even went to the track on Friday to run them for S's and G's. Will post detes on that in a separate thread, though the results were rather underwhelming, but expected honestly. |
I found that I have a parasitic draw after visiting Crystalworks for the weekend. LOL. Hope to update with a fix shortly. :(
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problem is during the summer it sits a lot as I would rather be driving the Z4 or the M3 :) |
Just did a Transmission fluid change (5.5L used) and changed the filter and pan gasket, it was a pain (so many screws around the pan) but the oil coming out was very black and I'm guessing original to the car (2002 with 250 000km).
The worst part was finding the right oil, had to order it at a pro shop. The car runs great and the shift seem more "seamless" but I've been driving a smart fortwo for the last 10 days so it might very well be just an illusion. I've also got the oil for both diffs and the transfer case, that'll be my next project. I also need to look into the siphon pump but the tank is full and the car not being driven a lot right now so its not ideal. |
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Love it! Works like a champ and was dirt cheap. The only bummer is that the BMW cigarette lighters stay powered all the time - so you have to manually turn it off when you exit. But it does auto connect the Bluetooth to the phone once you turn it back on. No problem with volume (you leave it turned up all the way and then just control volume with headunit/steering wheel controls). Phone audio even works decent (except the mic is a bit far away). Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A14L9DIA3NK9B0 I plan to upgrade to one of the chinese made Android units in the near future (after I get some more maintenance stuff done). But this has been a great temp fix. |
I bought a set of 4.6is mufflers for my 3.0i 5-speed. I won't have time to put them on soon but I'm excited about a bolt on exhaust upgrade. It needs to make more noise 😁
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I will do so. It'll be month or two though, and I have to figure out if I need more hangars. It only came with two. Also the owner was a little confused about whether it was a 4.8 or 4.6 exhaust, but he said it bolted on to his 3.0, so I am guessing it will work. The parts diagrams show the 3.0 only has three exhaust hangars, that can't be right, can it? |
New pusher fan and fixed the open in the AC Compressor Clutch. Stupid design with a fusible link under the clutch pulley......... that wont ever happen again
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If so, is it done from underneath?? |
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There is a fuesable link(temp fuse actually) under the clutch pulley. you can get to it from the bottom but if you full the fan and shroud off it gives you a bit more room for the snap ring pliers. I also took the coil portion off so I could solder that on the bench, much easier to see what your doing and not dripping hot solder on your face There is a thread on here about doing it on the bench, but I really didnt want to break the system open and have to take it to be pulled down and then filled. |
I don't love thermal fuses. I've had two terrible issues recently.
1) in the bottom of a hot water heater. A momentary burst of heat from the gas company killing the supply while the hwh is running bursts the glass vial and you can't buy the $4 vial. If you are lucky you can find the part for $90 on eBay else you need to replace the HWH! 2) my fridge: something in the circulation system malfunctioned. To disassemble the repair guy used a heat gun: he hit the thermal fuse opening it so it deactivated my defrost cycle so my fridge after repair worked for less than a week! |
It was time for an oil change - "M" weight during the summers in Texas for me. (Doesn't leak out as fast :bustingup) and an adjustment to the parking brake. I hate unintentionally rolling down the boat ramp.
I was also starting to experience a slow 3-4 upshift and extended engagement of the convertor clutch so I discussed a transmission filter change (filter only - not the fluid) with the service department manager, thinking at 344,000 miles there might be some restriction through the filter. He said they'd take a fluid sample and progress from there. Turns out all they had to do was re-flash the transmission and it's shifting perfectly again. 2002 X5 3.0 344,400 miles 2014 428i 38,800 miles 2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles 2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles 1970 Firebird Under restoration - body shop work finishing up |
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Smoked turn signals. Ordered from Amazon. Came straight from Taiwan. Blends in with the black trim and I like it.
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https://s33.postimg.cc/8ehjok1u7/IMG_8125.jpg
Guide parts are in, paid under $500. Cant wait to get this thing back on the road next week. |
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Nice car too! ;) Don't see too many the same colour as mine, with the same wheels... :thumbup: |
Oil Service time...
... along with a few extra items too, so more like a mini Inspection I.
Get Ready, Set... http://i65.tinypic.com/ic4oe1.jpg ..GO!... http://i63.tinypic.com/wcdd7b.jpg And before we can get across the line... http://i65.tinypic.com/2afetma.jpg What a PIG that cover is!! :confused: I think it took me the best part of an hour to get at the fuel filter, about 10 minutes to change it, then about 30 minutes to button it back up again. That rear bolt, the 13mm that is nearly in the rear wheel arch, is virtually impossible to get at without removing the rear wheel arch cover. Problem is, the rear wheel arch cover is held on with single use plastic rivet, so taking it off wasn't an option (at least for today). Ah well, what would I have done with the day otherwise...? :D |
today I did both rocker gaskets, which were leaking , and then drained the rad and re filled with coolant,
tomorrow, ive got to fix the little white clip on the rear window |
The theft alarm has triggered on its own twice. The 2:00 AM occurrence in the driveway wasn't very neighborly. :yikes:
The plunger on the under hood switch is binding and some "debris" fell out of it when I tried to test it so it must be getting tempermental. At least its any easy replacement. 2002 X5 3.0 345,400 miles 2014 428i 39,000 miles 2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles 2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles 1970 Firebird Under restoration - Paint shop next month |
damn you car !!!!
both rockers repaired, passenger side leaking still , (by the looks) where else can it leak from in the front corner of the engine ...........(timing case gasket :( ) tried to repair rear passengers window, thought it was the little white clip turns out its the white plastic part of the regulator broke, so ive had to order another reg. AC pulley which i fitted back end of last week, had died already, took car in for its X pipe fitting, and the zorst guy said i think you got a leak on your manifold, (drivers side) but will double check in a few hours when he puts it on ramp when i finish work and take it in originally thought it was a leak between manifold and cat, which he could fix, now its a garage to fix first but ive got to get it fixed as ive gone down from 20mpg down to 13 !!!!! im getting hacked off with it now, |
I successfully towed my new (to me) camper trailer about 45 minutes away and back. I spent the last couple weekends getting my trailer brakes installed and then fretted over not having time to do a cooling system overhaul. But the car towed beautifully and had no issues. So much better than the Tahoe I used to tow with.
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yeah I know , but the reg was a second hand one (came with the 2nd hand door I fitted) and tbh i couldn't be bothered messing :)
plus it looks like its seen better days tbh |
Began the teardown on the 4.4 for timing chain guides. Got all the injectors, top vacuum lines, throttle body, valve cover bolts so thats ready to come off, intake, clutch fan, and window trim shroud out.
Today I plan on hopefully getting the radiator, belts, pulleys, cooling system, and upper timing cover off. I'm stripping down as much as I can up until the lower timing cover and then I am having a friend come over and finish the job. |
You can make a special jig to hold the crank to remove the main "Jesus" bolt. simple angle not strong enough use box steel.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fcaf1dee17.jpg Here's the one we made. It just cleared the AC compressor and I put a stack of shims up on the fender to hold it. BMW has a special tool that hits against the lower block but it's so much more force. People crazier than me use the starter motor to break the bolt loose. |
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Tomorrow I have to remove the valve covers, timing covers, power steering pump, and it should be ready for my friend to take over. https://s33.postimg.cc/smanexoin/IMG_8218.jpg |
God I don’t miss having a V8. Bless you sir.
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i'm frightened just looking at it :)
and your looking at a 02 m62 owner with 160K on the clock , on original guides :) damn, did I just , no steve, you cannot tempt fate like that :) |
There is a tricky bolt/but on the back of the PS pump. There is no room for a normal ratchet but a "through hole" ratchet will just fit. I think it's 13mm
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ec935f3a36.jpg |
What did you do to / for your E53 today??
Another tip: if you don't have the thin wall special socket to remove vanos solinoid you can loosen the top chain covers an access with an open end wrench to loosen them. (Don't bother trying to twist from the body it will just rotate)
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I went to church to pray it makes it to the Mercedes dealer for trade in on a S model diesel. It must know it's being traded in after 16 years of bleeding my bank account. 140k miles, 2 transmissions and an engine, yearly work on the front end, about 8 door handle carriers, and too many other repairs to remember. BUT I still have to admit it was probably my favorite car I ever owned and my wife is very sad to see it go. It's a part of the family... BTW I'm trying to fix this transmission failsafe issue that popped up a few days ago...
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Well. kinda tempted fate and she bit my arse, oil leak that i thought was rocker gaskets is most probably the upper timing guide gaskets..
so my nice new rocker gaskets have got to be taken off and binned, oh the joy |
You'd have better luck trying to snug the timing cover to stop a leak. I would try that first. I would get new bolts perhaps a grade tougher and swap one at a time to reduce buckling.
When I've replaced the timing covers I could feel the plastic deformation of the bolts even at spec torque. I suspect BMW used soft bolts so they have less risk of stripping the threads in the head. I would swap out the 3-5 bolts surrounding the leak, maybe loosen them all slightly then replace them from the center out to about 80% torque initially then rotate through bumping up 5% at a time to 110% spec torque. There is a very good chance you'll stop the leak |
Beemerless
Fixed my Failsafe issue with a new QUALITY battery. Drove it to the dealer and now I am Beemerless for the 1st time in 25 years..Kinda sad..
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https://s33.postimg.cc/nz6h611n3/IMG_8234.jpg
Getting there. Was surprised to find out I didn't need to remove the vanos solenoids to get the upper timing covers off. |
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Must just be a N62 thing...although they just pull out on those so no biggie. |
I had to remove the solenoids on my 540 on one of the sides to get it to clear something. Maybe its just because I have the water pump/thermo & SAP out of the way.
Unrelated: How did you like your 2011 GX 460? I've been looking for an overlanding build and have been debating between a few choices: GX 470 (2004ish) LX 470 Land Cruiser Fzj80 <--- too old can't handle the ugly old interior Wrangler TJ |
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Got the 2011 GX 460 after I sold my highly modified Wrangler JK Unlimited Rubicon...which I did alot of off-roading with (even had a DIY camping trailer to tow behind). But once I paid it off and realized how much it was still worth (even after having it 4 years) I decided to cash out before any major repairs hit - was up to ~ 125k. Needless to say the Lexus was light years more comfortable and more features then the Jeep (or this X5). I had a 2011 for about 8 months. The fell in love with the 13+ body changes and upgraded to a 2014. Had it for about a year before selling and buying this X5 in an effort to be car payment free. Thanks Dave Ramsey...being "gazelle", you know? No complaints about either - amazing trucks. Still a big fan of the older GX 470s - may still even like the looks of those better then the newer 460s. |
Thanks for the feedback, the 4.8is looks great, same color as mine.
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Andrew, been talking to my mechanic who does all the work on the car, he suggested, as it isn't a leak bad enough to actually leave oil on the floor, (just goes over engine and trickles down onto passenger side steering gator then everywhere else :))that i leave it alone , according to him we ( myself and him) have redone the rocker gaskets 3 times in 4 years, and wait for the inevitable chain guides to fail , as with that job you have to re do all the gaskets any way, as i said 162k all original guides, and TBH, i check the oil level , and it doesn't use a great deal really.
i know the leak is there, it doesn't look like its leaking from any where else, |
Replaced a Arnott strut that was installed Only 7 months ago. The bottom blew out and set off the car alarm. I bought the Arnott thinking it was quality. Anyone else have a similar problem? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2e0e2d6dfd.jpg
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2yr - bought through RockAuto, limited lifetime by Arnott. I didn’t read details but Arnott said contact RockAuto for replacement, so I got another Arnott...hopefully a good one.
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Installed new expansion tank, new auto trans cooler thermostat which I discovered in pieces when I pulled the expansion tank and put in a warranty replacement alternator.
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Guides are done! Had to re-time it once because of p0021 but all is good now.
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Nice! I fixed the armrest/center console from rattling my goddamn brains out. Just used some of the felt side of Velcro tape on the underside of the armrest and on the underside of the storage lid. I used black so it’s damn near unnoticeable and sooo quiet now.
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My wife's car has that problem only if your arm is on the center armrest. I have misophonia pretty bad and can not tolerate that type of squeak/rattle so I'm glad you gave me a good idea how to fix it!
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I borrowed the fix from the dealer bulletin on how to fix the sunroof rattle. Lol.
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My sanity level increased greatly when I learned the word for my condition.
The way I describe it to people is in a similar way that most people physically react to the sound of fingernails across a chalkboard, certain sounds do the same to me but the internal reaction is closer to anxiety or anger. Tapping sound like a loose item in the "boot" of a car will ratchet up my anxiety until I have no choice but to pull over and fix it. I had a mystery tap tap tap that would come and go under my passenger front door. Sounded a little like loose change in the door pocket. It turned out to be two coins UNDER the threshold trim! |
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I read that fix. I need to perform that fix as well. |
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Found it. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...8&d=1332772625 |
Nothing really. It mostly gets driven on weekends or when my daily is down.
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Over the last few weeks I've replaced the following:
• Valve cover gaskets • Upper timing chain case cover gaskets • NGK Iridium IX plugs • Spark plug tubes • Ignition coils • Bunch of gaskets and o-rings during VC job • Serpentine belt • VANOS solenoids • Both engine mounts • Cleaned throttle body • Upper control arms/bushings/ball joints • CCV vent valves and hoses • Power steering reservoir and hose clamps and refill • Engine coolant expansion tank and refill :whew: |
I replaced the left rear window regulator. Honestly, not a bad repair at all. Took me about an hour. For me, the window clip is not what broke, instead the regulator anchor for the cables broke apart and the cable unwound.
Anyway, I have my window back now so that's a plus! |
you talking about the white plastic slide on the rail?
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Replaced an axle seal at the front differential as well as the o-ring. Hopefully, this will stop the oil leak. If people are going to replace the axle seal, I would suggest that you buy a Genuine Factory seal. The Factory seal comes with a plastic guard that prevents the little spring on the seal from popping out as you pound the seal into the differential. If you are too cheap to buy factory parts, you can just fill the seal with grease where the spring is located to keep it from popping out. You can make a cheap seal driver by using PVC pipe bought at the Home Improvement stores. Bring the seal so you will get the right diameter connector. I purchase the cleanout plug that screwed into the PVC coupler so that I would have something to pound against.
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- Added spacers
- Removed bumper and took to shop for clear bra removal and respray - Got a shitty alignment (needs a redo) |
- Added spacers
- Removed bumper and took to shop for clear bra removal and respray - Got a shitty alignment (needs a redo) |
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Added a carbon vinyl sticker to the top of rear bumper. What do you guys think?
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What spacers did you go with? Trying to settle on a set for my 4.8is. |
Installed 2nd pre-owned accelerator pedal. Finally cleared fault code on that. Also installed new post-cat O2 sensor #1 to clear those faults. Surprisingly, the O2 sensor came out a lot easier that I expected, considering the difficulty some others have experienced. Other than those issues, still going strong at 164k.
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Installed on 4.8iS wheel spacers:
Front: 20mm ECS tuning (added M14x1.5x55mm bolts) Rear: 30mm H&R with included bolts |
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This is the sizes I'm thinking about. How do you like? Got pics? |
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One of the favorite things about my x is that the previous owner de-badged. I like the sticker other than the printing. It's like a computer that has a "includes office" sticker across the entire palm rest then the owner leaves it on.
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I like how the plain bumper is now decorated with nice carbon fiber colors. Gives it a much needed splash of flair. The 4.6is is not a true m but it certainly is well endowed with many m parts. |
Couldn't resist.....
:stickpoke:https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...98a3c731d5.jpg Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk |
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Taking those curbs full speed now[emoji3]. Been raining a lot last two days. Will share pics soon as X is detailed. |
[QUOTE=Maruzo;1139149]It’s more about the look than what the sticker represents.
I like how the plain bumper is now decorated with nice carbon fiber colors. Gives it a much needed splash of flair. The 4.6is is not a true m but it certainly is well endowed with many m parts.[/QUOTE What M parts are on the 4.6.? |
Got a BMW Scanner 1.4.0 reader fresh from China today. Used it to finally code off my DRLs with a simple check box! $19 shipped beats $150 at the stealership any day!
Anyone else messed with PA Soft/BWM Scanner 1.4? Wondering what else I am missing. Saw a post about adjusting the temp gauge to be more accurate. Need to dig into that how-to...have been paranoid lately after some issues with my coolant expansion tank. It looked a bit more complicated then the DRL check box on/off. |
[QUOTE=bcredliner;1139172]
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That said, you are right since none of the parts that makes up an IS has ever been certified as part of a M vehicle. But that doesn't mean it wasn't worked or tweaked by the M division. Heck even the Alpina folks were involved in the engine design. I guess it's safe to say the design of the vehicle was graced by the M people? Or you like to challenge that as well? We all mod our X5s the way we like, let's leave it at that. |
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PA Soft 1.4 | Crowz Nest |
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Yea that's the one I had stumbled across while looking at this head unit install guide. Going to try that tomorrow. |
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[QUOTE=Maruzo;1139187]
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I am challenging what you are saying. There is nothing from BMW that confirms the M division had anything to do with the 4.6 or graced the vehicle. Only thing I have found is the M division didn't want anything to do with a SUV. At the time they thought an X5 M would be detrimental to their strategy. Alpina was not involved in the engine design though the BMW design was based on the engine in the B10 Alpina. |
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Well I only have one thing to say to you, bcredliner:
Check out my brand new awesome "M" inspired radiator grille! Next stop, carbon fiber trims!! |
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Just installed modified Nav software with the M logo and accept screen bypass. Simple and easy.
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If anyone is interested...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c41adebd4e.jpg Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk |
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Damit, now I’ll have to remove the oem X5 logo! |
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How did you do this? |
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https://carbannerflags.com/products/bmw-m-flag |
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https://e39source.com/archives/797 If you need the MKIV disc I already made one I can send it to you. |
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Finished up the replacement of the rear brake lines that rusted through under the door sill cladding/panels. Replaced all the rear brake parts and rubber lines, suspension arms, and clayed the wheels and cleaned the wheel liners.
I am now at 60K! |
Your brake lines blew at 60,000? Please God mean miles.
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holy smokes is that an east coast thing? rusty brake lines. Its so hot and dry in CA right now
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Yep, 60,000 miles the steel coated lines under the driver's side floor panels (under body) rusted at the plastic clamp points just behind the front wheels. All of these lines will go. It is just a matter of salt and time. Ocean spray or man made spray on the roads. This X5 NEVER goes out in the rain or salt. Every line I see on these E53 has pits as the spray on coating used at the factory is compromised. see examples at: https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...ine-check.html
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congrats. Here on the East Coast they salt daily in the winter if rain is predicted. Meanwhile it has rained for the last 3 months, so I am converting my X5 into a V8 Ark driver. A side effect is that you will be able to buy watermelons by the ton this year. No flavor just size.
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got a x pipe fitted, :)
will post pics and a video later :) sounds nice, not too noisy, a lot of rumble and not too much droning , on certain times its near silent |
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